Bally 1994 World Cup Soccer - $6,000

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Click here to view a video before my restoration.

I bought a WCS. I like this game and decided that I would restore it for myself and decide whether to sell it in the future.

When I first started reviewing the game, I noticed the following issues:

1. The left diverter did not work. The spring on the plunger was broken. I replaced a $5 plunger and fixed the problem. - FIXED

2. The Assist/Free Kick hole plunger finger came out to kick the ball and slowly went back. It was grease. I took the assembly apart and cleaned it. It now works perfectly. - FIXED

3. Batteries corroded since customer has never changed the batteries and the game has not worked for 10 years. Luckily it was a battery board that was off the MPU so did not corrode the MPU. I replaced with a new remote battery holder ($10). - FIXED

4. The customer told me that the game was kicking out balls. I assumed an opto switch error. But when I took out the balls to move, there were 7 balls in the game. The game should only have 5 balls but they did not know so I am not sure if the game ever worked correctly since they placed 7 balls into the game. (The batteries and this frustrate me since when a game is sold this could have been told to the customer.) - FIXED

5. Occasionally, the switches all go off or get a "Grd Short Row 1 Switch Closed”. This is frustrating since I cannot reproduce and does not happen often. So I will have to track this down. On 11/28/2020, while working on the game, I found a stuck switch. This wasn't the issue. On 11/30/2020 as shown below, I decided to add a Kahr.us daughter board. This board takes 12 volts from the driver board and converts it to 5 volts on the MPU. Usually the 5 volts on the MPU is weak and the game resets. In this situation, the 12 volt was weak and could not power the switch matrix and with the daughter board. in, the game went crazy. I took it out and always received the above error. I panicked. I sent an email to Rob Kahr who reminded me (because this same thing happened before and I forgot) that the daughter board. was doing exactly what it should. It was showing me that the 12 volt circuit on the driver board was intermittently weak and using his daughter board. exposed this. I replaced the driver board and the game has worked perfectly. - FIXED

Here are some of the items I bought for this full refurbishment:
1. ColorDMD LED display $400
2. New Plastic set $204
3. New ramps and decals $475
4. LEDs $200
5. Red Superbands $100
6. Decals $25
7. New back box translite (since mine has some holes) $117
8. New front lock bar since this one is beaten up $100
9. New legs, bolts, levelers $100
10. New teal posts (star, narrow, lane guides, bumper caps) $50
11. Plastic protector set $35
12. New cabinet front leg right bracket and back leg left bracket $20
13. New remote battery $10
14. New plunger for diverter $5
15. Additional lighting in trough, back area and spotlights $80
16. Re-plate the coin toss, ramp and apron wire in brass by pinball plating. $400
17. New soccer ball $50
18. New apron cards $15
19. Cliffy protectors $100
20. New backing for goalie $6 (it used to be rubber now it is a plastic.)
21. New trim for back glass $10
22. New purple eject hole covers $10
23. Additional ramp protectors $10
24. New flipper buttons $10
25. New flipper bats, bushings, plunger links, bracket, bolts, and springs $70
26. Soccer stadium game blades $85
27. Soccer ball plunger. $30
28. New switch holder (and assembly) for 3 switches on the ramps. $50
29. New Spinner and bracket. $20
30. New metal box below the wire ramp in the back since a previous repair screwed up the bolt holes. $13
31. Upper ramp brackets to back of the game has their bolt screws messed up by a previous repair. Used a tap and die to fix it.
32. Replacement plunger for left outlane save coil. $7

I am sure I will find additional issues I will need to address.

The pictures have been taken with the glass off to get a better picture.

This game comes with a manual.

item Click on the Internet Pinball Database logo to the left. This is a GREAT resource to find out about the machine, see pictures, see reviews and download the rule sheet if one exists for the game. This provides additional insights into playing the game.

 

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The new translite finally arrived on 1/5/2021.

 

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The color display, game blades, LEDs, and extra lighting really make this game beautiful. The new plastics and ramps make it shine. This game is so beautiful when over 25 years of dirt is cleaned away.

 

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This is the start of the first picture at the customer's house. Background cleared.

 

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The play field at the original house.

 

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The game as I originally found it. Since this is at the customer's house, I removed the background enough to not be recognizable.

 

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Note that the general illumination is out in the back left and right behind the 3 bumpers. The regular lamps in the back box are dim. There is duct tape keeping the bottom lift channel in place, This will show up later when I replace the lamps with LEDs. Once I get the new translite, I will remove the duct tape.

 

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Credit dot is displayed because the batteries are dead and corroded on this game.

 

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The left ramp entry switch and plastic is in the wrong place on this game. Later at home, I realized the holes it was supposed to go into were broken. It appears when this switch was moved forward, the repair person conveniently removed the right ramp protector. Did I ever tell you how much I hate half-baked repairs that jerry-rig a solution but do not actually fix the problem?

 

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Dirty but will clean up nicely.

 

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More dirt.

 

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This is the leg bracket for the right front leg. Before I could put the game together, I had to lay it on the floor on top of 4x4" blocks to open up the game and replace this bracket. Then I could put it back up and on the legs. Both holes were stripped and had nuts holding the bolts in place.

 

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New leg bracket with bolts installed correctly. Note the hole to the right of the leg bracket. This is the lock hole added near the "C" in "Coin Toss".

 

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The left ramp diverter did not move well. I looked at the plunger and the spring was broken where it connects to the vertical rod.

 

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Here is the plunger resting against the bracket for the vertical rod. It looks good but not connected.

 

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The game in my house/shop. I originally added the red leg protectors temporarily since they were the only color I had. But I did a customer's WCS in January 2019 and used red super bands and I liked how they look. So I will do red super bands on this game and keep these red leg protectors as an accent. The credit dot is gone since I replaced the battery holder and reset the settings.

 

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Left cabinet. The colors are nice. This is a small scratch that I repaired in the black area, below the ball and yellow line.

 

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Left back box is in nice condition.

 

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Right cabinet is in nice condition.

 

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Right back box cabinet in nice condition.

 

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Lock bar dented and discolored. Play field dirty but will clean up nicely. Ramps and plastics very dirty. Apron paper will be replaced with nicer artwork. This is the way many wholesalers and retailers sold machines in the late 1990s and 2000s (and probably even now). Basically they were right off a route and extremely dirty. They were never cleaned after being at the customer's house (since the customer would not know how to do this and it would require a lot of time and skill). I used to restore many of these games until a few years ago. But I realized I earn more money fixing people's games rather than spending 20-40 hours restoring games. But I am doing this one for myself and will enjoy it. Or at least act like I do. This is not a criticism of any pinball owner. My first pinballs were like this as well. It wasn't until I started fixing games that I realized how much work they need to really be nice and clean.

 

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There are two ramps on this game. I will call them the "top ramp" and the "bottom ramp".

The top ramp starts at the left and there is a diverter that either sends the ball to the left to drop onto the bottom ramp, or travels around the back of the game to the right in lane. The top ramp is made up of two separate pieces.

The bottom ramp starts at the right and travels around the back past the lock area to the left in lane.

The right side of the top ramp is cracked and repaired above where the top section meets the bottom section.

 

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The diverter on the top ramp was originally not working due to the broken spring as shown above.

 

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This plastic below the top ramp is usually broken and this game did not disappoint.

 

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The header plastic is also usually broken and was broken on this game.

 

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The top ramp area that was cracked and repaired.

 

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The dirty play field.

 

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Dirty play field.

 

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Dirty play field.

 

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Top area.

 

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I thought two holes were added to the game. But the left ball guide was missing (and I ordered it). There should only be one hole where I am pointing. Hopefully this will not look so bad when I put the ball guide back.

 

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The three holes have wear that will be covered by Cliffy protectors. The metal brackets on all three holes are also loose. This is the lower right hole. The brackets are dirty and bent. I bought new ones.

 

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Some wear on the lower left hole, as well as loose bracket. The post is missing a rubber. All rubbers and sleeves will be replaced with red super bands.

 

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Top left free kick hole that has wear and loose bracket. All the metal will need to be cleaned and polished or replaced.

 

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Front cabinet. Note hole in "C" in "Coin Toss". Note the dirt on the legs. New legs ordered.

 

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Lifting the flippers to show the missing left ball guide.

 

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The translite has a repaired section on the left hand with the ball. There is also some issues at the bottom right. You can see the duct tape at the bottom.

 

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The goalie was connected when I first got the game. As I played the game, it started to droop and fall off. The soft plastic backing is brittle and falling apart as shown in the next photo.

 

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Brittle goalie backing.

 

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I took off the top bracket of the coil to replace the sleeve and the plunger/spring of the diverter.

 

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The broken plunger/spring on the left. The new one on the right. I will also replace the coil sleeve to be clean and new.

 

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Bracket cleaned and new plunger/spring installed.

 

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The plunger/spring reconnected.

 

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The ejector on the top left free kick hole is moving down slowly so it is probably greased up with old caked-on grease. I will remove the plunger assembly below the purple plastic and clean.

 

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The 4 screws holding the coil bracket will be removed so I can get to the plunger and spring. The 3 screws to the right holding the rest of the plunger and pivot will also be removed.

 

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You can see the grease that has dried and hardened.

 

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More grease at the pivot point.

 

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Lots of grease between the two pieces.

 

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Taking it apart.

 

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One section clean.

 

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Back together cleaned.

 

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At about this time, I witnessed the first switches going crazy. Interesting that it did not happen immediately when I started working on the game and playing it. I received the error: Ground Short Row 1 Switch Closed. The white/brown wire goes across row 1. I looked at the coin interface board and saw that the white/brown wire was removed from the connector at the top left. The slam switch at the bottom was also removed from the 3 pin connector at the bottom right of the board. So obviously someone else was having a similar problem with row 1 in the past. Which implies that the prior owner may have had this issue the entire time, or a repair person came and "fixed it" by removing this wire and disconnecting the tilt switch at the bottom but did not actually fix it.

 

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I replaced the white/brown wire in the connector. The problem still occurred but very intermittently and less often. I reseated all connectors and checked for shorts on the wires. I did not see any issues.

 

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At this point, the back general illumination worked since I reseated the connectors but J120 was crispy and I later replaced it to ensure all general illumination worked fine.

 

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Full play field view with all general illumination working.

 

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I removed this connector to see if the game would play without any issues. It did for a long time but then it would go crazy and I hear coils engage as if a switch was being registered. I plugged this in and went to switch test and would see that very infrequently the whole board would show that all switches were closed. But then I couldn't get this to reproduce.

 

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The two sections of the top ramp at the right side are missing the bracket that holds the pieces together. I found the part in Australia: 01-12491 Plate Back Ramp Connect. This part is $19.05 AU which is about $14 US. Postage is also $14 US so a lot of money to buy a small part that is about an 1" square. I bought three of them.

 

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A section of the left cabinet. You can see the dirt.

 

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After I cleaned it, the cabinet looks much nicer and cleaner.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Dirty. Note the dirt trail on the left in lane.

 

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Dirty. The right in lane also has a black trail.

 

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Top area. Note the dirt in the white area around the soccer ball.

 

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Clean.

 

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Clean.

 

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Clean.

 

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Clean.

 

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Now I will take off the ramps to get to the play field. Before I do this, I find all the connectors that come from the top of the play field and mark what hole the connector comes through and both sides of the connector. (And then I miss some and come back later and add others.)

 

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All the ramps will be replaced. All screws, nuts, etc will be replaced. The following pictures show the points where I disconnect the ramp. I put the screws back on so I know where they go.

 

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The top ramp attaches to the top and bottom of the right sling. I will use a dremel and clean all the hex posts. If I have replacement hex posts, I will use them. Otherwise I am using dremel consumable parts that cost more than the posts to clean.

 

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This is the third connection point of the lower right side top ramp.

 

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There should be a bracket connecting the two parts of the top ramp. I noted the part number above: 01-12491 Plate Back Ramp Connect. I can only find it in Australia for $28 shipped. I bought three.

 

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I guess this is really a poor picture of me lifting the lower part of the top ramp.

 

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The top ramp starts at the left side and needs to be removed first. When I was looking at this ramp entry, it looked wrong. I looked at the restoration I did in January 2019 and realized that the switch and plastic should be back but those holes are broken. The right side ramp entry protector is missing as if someone that "fixed" this threw it away since it no longer fit. This is frustrating.

 

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Left ramp entry switch disconnected to get to the top ramp.

 

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There is a clear plastic that goes here. The diverter needs to be removed with the two screws. Eventually the rod will need to be removed to get the bottom ramp out.

 

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Diverter removed.

 

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The E clip, plastic spacer and two washers will be removed.

 

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Removed.

 

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The back plastic and three yellow lights need to be removed.

 

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Removed.

 

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There are two brackets to the back wall that need the screws and washers removed that hold the top ramp.

 

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Top ramp held to bracket on the right side in the back. The right screw was ruined. I needed to use a tap and die to re-thread the hole.

 

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I do not know why someone used a nut below the top ramp here. It should not need it.

 

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The right bracket will have the holes re-threaded using a tap and die set.

 

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This is showing the two ramp wood screws holding the top ramp entry at the left side of the play field.

 

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Ramp entry screws removed as well as the bolts that hold the left side ramp protector to the post.

 

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I am showing the locations of all the screws to remove on the top ramp.

 

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I left off some connectors hidden behind the opto board.

 

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As I was removing the top ramp, I realized another location where I did not mark and disconnect connectors. So I needed to label and disconnect before I could remove the top ramp.

 

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Top ramp removed.

 

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I note the order in which I take the ramps apart.

 

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Note how dirty these ramps are compared to the new ones I will install later.

 

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The bottom ramp is now exposed. In order to get this ramp out, the diverter rod, top of the soccer net, and other items will need to be removed first. It was interesting that the leg bolt was stuck as shown below.

 

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Bolt removed from bottom ramp.

 

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View without the top ramp.

 

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The lower ramp starts at the right side in front of the soccer ball.

 

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Ramp wood screws removed and bolts holding the ramp protectors removed for the bottom ramp.

 

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I'm now showing the screw locations where the bottom ramp is connected.

 

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Bottom ramp screw locations.

 

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The lock plastic cover needs to be removed to remove the screws connecting the bottom ramp to the lock mini play field.

 

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Lock plastic removed.

 

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The diverter rod needs to be removed since the bottom ramp needs to slide forward.

 

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The bottom ramp needs to have these two screws removed from the lock mini play field.

 

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Removing the rod to the diverter. Without the top piece, the rod can be removed without taking the coil apart.

 

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The plunger/spring and diverter

 

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The bottom ramp. Showing screw locations.

 

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This triangle plastic needs to be removed to allow the bottom ramp to come off the play field.

 

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Triangle plastic removed.

 

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Remove the wire ramp. The right bolt holding the wire ramp was connected with a bolt and nut. This is not right.

 

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Remove wire ramp attached to the top of the right sling.

 

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The right side of the back of the ramp is held in with an upside down bolt and nut. Totally wrong and a pain in the neck to get off. People should not be allowed to touch a pinball machine if they don't know what they are doing.

 

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With the wire ramp out, I can remove the bottom ramp.

 

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Needed to take out the mini play field to get the wires out.

 

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Instructions and order to take off the bottom ramp.

 

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Ramps out of the game.

 

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More connectors labeled and taken apart.

 

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This wire ramp box mount needs to be removed. The black wire is to the header plastic that needs to get back in place before the rest of the game is put back together.

 

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Ramps removed.

 

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Looks like glue or something was dripped here. Hardly noticeable but it annoys me.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Dirty. I can't wait to get the new soccer ball. The play field looks terrible until the shiny new white soccer ball is placed in the game. The clear plastic on top of the lower teal bumper cap is not standard. I will remove it. But there is also a clear plastic in the plastic set that I do not know where it goes yet. I asked on Pinside. Hopefully someone will know and tell me.

 

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The area around the soccer ball.

 

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Cleaning the area in the back left.

 

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Removed the back left lane guide to clean underneath and clean the guide with metal cleaner/polisher.

 

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Dirty,

 

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Left area cleaned.

 

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The clear plastic above the goal is connected through this hole here.

 

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The other side (right side of lane) of the ball guide removed.

 

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Starting to add general illumination LEDs.

 

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General illumination added.

 

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General illumination in the back.

 

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The upper ramp bracket needs to be re-threaded.

 

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Goal removed to clean the area.

 

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The goal trough needs to be cleaned.

 

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Cleaned but will be cleaned more when removed later.

 

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Dirty vs clean nut. All hardware will be replaced with new hardware unless 100% not visible.

 

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This metal guide will be removed and re-riveted to the new plastic. This plastic will be removed to take off the coin toss entry to send out for re-plating.

 

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The two brass screws removed from the coin toss assembly.

 

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The nuts will be removed to take off the coin toss assembly. But needed to take off the apron and the ball shooter guide at the right to get the coin toss assembly out.

 

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The play field was very dirty below the apron.

 

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The right sling removed.

 

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About to remove the coin toss assembly. The plastic behind the coin toss assembly needs to be removed to get the final wood bolt out.

 

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About to take this plastic off to get to the last bolt.

 

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Here is the bolt to remove.

 

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Remove this shooter guide.

 

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Coin toss assembly removed.

 

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Disassembly.

 

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Dirty plastic.

 

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Inner parts removed.

 

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Fixed brackets.

 

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Right side bracket fixed.

 

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Regular lamps.

 

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LEDs. I didn't like the red LEDs at the right which I will later remove.

 

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This picture shows the flasher numbers.

 

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I thought I'd like the red on the right. But later I will change it back to white.

 

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I'll start working on this area next.

 

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Time to clean the apron area.

 

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Getting clean.

 

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Cleaning the metal parts and below them.

 

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The left shooter lane guide out.

 

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and cleaned.

 

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I will clean the posts with a dremel and metal polish or replace if I have a replacement part. I think it is cheaper to replace then clean.

 

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Left side to clean.

 

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Adding the left ball guide back.

 

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Left ball guide in place.

 

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Remove left ball guide to clean.

 

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Cleaned.

 

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Cleaned.

 

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Cleaned, LED'ed, new posts, new red super bands.

 

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Can't wait to get rid of this old soccer ball.

 

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Maybe now I will work on this area.

 

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Old flipper buttons.

 

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New, clean flipper buttons.

 

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Old, dirty flipper button.

 

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New, flipper button.

 

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This test button has a funky switch it there that I will replace. At this point, I thought that maybe this test switch was causing the switch errors. But I also wanted the correct switch in place.

 

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New switches.

 

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New switches installed.

 

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I will now replace the purple eject bases.

 

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Old and dirty vs new.

 

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Several photos of the LEDs under the controlled lights.

 

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This is the magnet core for the mini lock play field. I will clean and polish the tip.

 

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Cleaned.

 

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The magnet core/bracket back in the mini play field.

 

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Dirty legs.

 

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The back left bracket also needed to be replaced.

 

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New legs.

 

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New flipper parts. The coils are strong so I will leave these in place.

 

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I replaced the bushing, flipper bat, spring, bracket, plunger.

 

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Shiny object. Shiny object. While working on the flippers, I thought about putting this Kahr board in to see what would happen with the intermittent ground short on row 1.

 

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Added to the game.

 

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The switch matrix went crazy and consistently showed the above error. I took out the Kahr board and consistently got this error. So I decided to try to change the ULN2803A (U20) chip. I also sent an email to Rob Kahr about this issue. He pointed out that the 12 volts coming from the driver board was probably having intermittent issues. I forgot that I used a Kahr board in another game to find the exact problem that the 12 volt was bad. I replaced the driver board and this solved the problem. Finally!

 

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I didn't like the two red LEDs at the right. I replaced with white.

 

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I like the white better.

 

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Now back to our originally scheduled program. Replaced the parts for both flippers.

 

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Added the red super bands.

 

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Added a soccer ball plunger with a brass spring.

 

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Now I will add the Cliffy protectors.

 

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Remove this guide.

 

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Removed the posts, cleaned the area and put down the protector.

 

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While I was emailing Cliff about the protectors, I showed him this lock magnet to see if we can do something. I will add mylar around the outside of the magnet core.

 

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Placing the protector. It is very close to the bolt of the guide at the right side.

 

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Once tightened it bowed in the middle.

 

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I loosened the two posts on the left and slid to the left and re-tightened and the protector laid flat.

 

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Cliffy protector on the free kick hole.

 

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Lower left hole.

 

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Lower left Cliffy protector.

 

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Right side.

 

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Right side Cliffy protector.

 

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Remove this coil to place the single protector.

 

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Cliffy added at the right.

 

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I need to remove the goal trough. While removed, I will clean it some more.

 

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Goal protector installed.

 

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Will add a Cliffy protector here.

 

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Remove this coil.

 

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I will clean this area before adding the Cliffy protector. Still waiting for my new soccer ball to arrive.

 

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The Cliffy protector installed. Ensuring that it does not block the hole on the right with the tab.

 

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Cliffy protector added.

 

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Adding the goalie. In the past, this has been a soft plastic and a decal. This time I got a hard plastic and decal. Later, my plastic set has two silk screen goalie plastics I will use as spares.

 

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Plastic installed.

 

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Decal installed over the screws on the plastic.

 

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PinballBulbs.com extra lights mod trough lights.

 

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Covered the wires with electrical tape.

 

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Taped down the wires and add to the clips along the bottom. I added duct tape later as well.

 

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Lit.

 

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Blue lights under the back.

 

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Narrow bulbs for the front cabinet buttons.

 

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Spotlights added. Wires will be hidden once plastics added.

 

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Ramps returned brass plated from pinballplating.com.

 

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Apron wire.

 

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Coin toss re-plated.

 

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Opto covers re-plated.

 

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Opto covers with electrical tape on the inside to stop the optos from shorting.

 

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Adding optos back on the right side.

 

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Covering optos with electrical tape. Fish paper would be more correct but this and covering the inside of the cover with electrical tape should protect the optos.

 

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Cover added.

 

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Build up left side.

 

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Add red super bands.

 

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Add spacers.

 

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New plastic vs old dirty plastic.

 

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New plastic added.

 

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Left side optos added.

 

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Optos covered with electrical tape.

 

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Cover added.

 

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Dirty hex posts.

 

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Cleaned hex posts.

 

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Hex posts added, new LEDs add, about to place the light board.

 

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Coin toss assembly back together and lights working and optos working.

 

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Straight on photo of the coin toss assembly.

 

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Right side of the coin toss assembly.

 

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Apron wire plated and added to the apron.

 

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Back area.

 

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New plastics added.

 

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New plastic in left back.

 

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#4-24 screw is too long. I bought 5/8" and 3/4" length to replace these longer screws.

 

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Screw no longer protruding. Need to do a bit more cleaning here.

 

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Goal cover added and red flasher works. (I will need to remove this plastic when placing the bottom ramp. But the safest place for this plastic at the moment.)

 

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Added new plastic behind the coin toss assembly.

 

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Next plastic to replace... unless something diverts my attention.

 

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I asked if anyone on PINSIDE knew where this clear plastic goes. No one responded. Ryan at Marco said there was another forum topic that asked the same question (which obviously I couldn't find), and no one knows where it goes. So it is probably not part of this game.

 

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Plastic installed.

 

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I received the new eject hole brackets from Marco that will be replaced with shiny new ones.

 

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New bracket on the left.

 

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New bracket installed.

 

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New bracket (out of focus) on the right for the right eject hole.

 

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Before I can put the apron back on, I need to replace this plunger for the left outlane.

 

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Plunger replaced.

 

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I replaced the decals on the spinner and was going to replace the spinner bracket but the holes were not big enough as shown in the next photo. So I used my dremel and metal polish to clean the existing bracket.

 

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New bracket on left with smaller hole for spinner.

 

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The new wire ramp bracket in place. The old one in my hand has the threads on the right side sheared off.

 

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The brand new ramps had this dis-figuration. But speaking with starship-fantasy.com, who made the ramps, this is normal because the ramps are much thicker and stronger. (Later you will see issues I had to resolve with the location of the diverter and the switch brackets being too low for the ball to pass.)

 

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Another view of the ramp. In the game, it looks great.

 

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Old ramp vs. new ramp.

 

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Before I placed the beautifully re-plated coin toss entry in place. But when trying to add the plastic protector under the new plastics near this coin toss, the plastic would not fit. The cover on the left was sticking out too far. The next shows it better. I had to bend it back into a better position to fit.

 

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This photo shows the cover bent out too far.

 

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The cover bent back to fit better.

 

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Back in position.

 

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I was missing the end of the ramp brackets. I had to buy some L brackets. I then put a foam thingy like behind targets so the ball would hit that rather than metal on metal.

 

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Getting measurements so I can find them at the hardware store.

 

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You can see on the original ramps the walls are much thinner.

 

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Yes, I am being very careful when moving wires.

 

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I was able to buy two brand new bracket switch assemblies for WCS (yes, I overpaid for convenience). I needed three but they only had two. I bought a new bracket for the lower ramp but obviously I did not pay attention to dimensions. So I had to reuse the original bracket and clean with a dremel and metal polish. (The photo above is comparing the new bracket below that I bought to the bracket assembly I bought.)

 

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About to move this assembly.

 

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Completed.

 

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Side by side.

 

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Above, I discussed the deformities in the U turn at the left of the top ramp. As I was about to start work on the top ramp, i noticed the back was filed to be thinner and a little sharp at the top with 3 internal cracks. Again, I contacted starship-fantasy.com (who made the ramp) and they stated this was done for proper fit because of the extra thickness of the new ramps.

 

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Replacing the decal on the back pop bumpers.

 

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New decal.

 

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The light wire needs to go behind the posts that will be temporarily removed to fit it through the play field.

 

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Lane guide removed to get wire in.

 

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Finally, all bumper caps in place.

 

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This plastic needs the lane guide riveted in. The last time I restored a WCS, I bought a rivet gun to do this so I can file below to allow the ball to fit.

 

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This shows that I filed the rivet on underside of the plastic to about 1/16".

 

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Looking nice with all the plastics and protectors in place. I can't wait to get the new soccer ball.

 

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Some views of the plastics before covered with ramps.

 

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The new $450 or so ramps came came with all the decals, except the one I am pointing to. Marco did send it to me. But I had to wait a few days before I could put the ramp in.

 

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About to work on the top ramp.

 

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This picture and next were photographing the decals to sanity check that I put them all in the right place.

 

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This is the decal I'm missing.

 

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The new soccer ball has arrived... Bye bye old soccer ball.

 

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Old vs new.

 

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I will remove this bracket to clear the area.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Clean.

 

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New soccer ball installed.

 

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Lower ramp installed. Apron paper also installed.

 

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With the plastic protectors under the new plastics raising up the post a bit, and the thicker ramp, the ramp is a little higher than the mini play field as shown in the photos below.

 

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In my 2018/2019 restoration, there was a brass Z bracket here that this game does not have.

 

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Top lower portion of the ramp installed.

 

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Ramp to nowhere so far.

 

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A view of the lower play field with the spotlights blinding the photo. Reminds me of the light flares in the Reboot of the Star Trek movies.

 

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The game plays fine with this post slightly lifting the ramp. I was thinking about drilling through the ramp at this location, but decided against it at the moment.

 

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This shows the ramp sitting on the screw head.

 

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This shows the bottom of the ramp slightly above the wood of the mini play field.

 

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Rebuilding this plastic.

 

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The missing decal from the old ramp.

 

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I added the foam to allow the ball to hit the foam rather than the metal. I put the foam as high as possible to not block the ball from going through the hole.

 

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Foam placed here as well.

 

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Added an X where I may drill a hole someday. But probably not.

 

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Looking nice.

 

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I never had to think about ball clearance when adding switch brackets to new ramps. With these ramps being thicker, the above picture and next two show the ball cannot make it past the switch.

 

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Ball not clearing the top switch.

 

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Ball not clearing the right switch.

 

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The top ramp hole for the diverter rod. The provided hole is clearly shown. The sharpie mark is where the diverter rod comes up. I will need to drill a hole here.

 

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Note the 3 washers under the switch bracket. This is high enough for the ball to clear.

 

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Three washers below the switch bracket here.

 

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Three washers below the switch bracket on the right side.

 

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Newly drilled hole. I will keep using larger drill bits to enlarge the hole.

 

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Bigger.

 

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Diverter rod through the ramp.

 

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I used the 3/8" and 1/2" bit to enlarge the hole more to allow clearance.

 

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Diverter rod in place under the play field.

 

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Of course with the thicker ramp, the original spacers did not work and I had to find new washers to raise up to the level of the E-clip.

 

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I then added the color display and the game blades. These pictures are at the top of this page as the glamour photos.

Virginia Sales Tax

Virginia sales tax is currently 6.0%. Sales tax for in-state orders applies to machines and parts. It does not apply to the delivery or repair services.

Warranty

As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.

Reasons You Should Let Us Deliver Your Pinball (or Another Machine)

  1. We will NOT provide a warranty for the machine since we cannot be assured that a problem did not happen when you transported the machine. (As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.)
  2. We take responsibility for any damage that may occur during the delivery process.
  3. We professionally set up the machine, connect all the connectors, attach the legs, head, etc. and ensure that the pinball works properly. If anything is out of adjustment due to moving the machine, we can fix it in a few minutes as compared to having to come to your house later and charging you a trip fee and repair charge.
  4. If anything major is out of adjustment, we can order parts and repair. This hardly ever happens but it could and you and the machine are protected.

Delivery Options

We are currently set up for local delivery only within the Northern Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, and North-Eastern West Virginia area. If you are interested in shipping the pinball machine, we will contact a shipper. You will pay all crating and postage costs.

If you would like us to deliver and set up within 50 miles of Purcellville, the charge is $300; within 100 miles $475. The delivery charge includes delivery to a first floor or basement level if walk-out.

We will not sell you a game/deliver the game if the only entrance to your basement is an inside the house staircase. They are too narrow. Plus we have to ensure we don't mess up carpet or wood. It just isn't worth it.

You may also come and pick up the machine from our location.