1994 Bally World Cup Soccer

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Pinball

I restored this game. It looks great with a new plastic set, red rubbers, ColorDMD, new posts, LEDs, etc.

Upon initial examination, the General Illumination (GI) is out in the back box as shown. J120 and J121 are a bit burnt so I will rebuild them. A few lights are out. But all lights in columns 1 and 7 are out. I'll have to explore further. It will be great if they are all just burnt out. I won't get that lucky. I replaced J120 and J121. A few more GI strands worked but one on the back box did not work. I changed out the driver board since it would take longer to isolate repairs than it would to exchange the board. All 5 GI strands work. All lights in column 1 and 7 work (well actually a few are probably burnt out but the columns now mostly work). Plus the driver board needs to be freshened up after 20 years or so.

The goalie switch and a few switches in the back area do not register so hoping that a wire broke. The goalie switch needed to be adjusted so it was not always closed. The other switches are working.

Based on my prior experience with WCS, when I take apart the coin toss area, I will ensure that the metal sides have insulation so they do not short against the opto switches. In a prior restoration, I touched the coin toss and it blew out the opto board since the insulation was gone. I will not repeat this ever again.

I always enjoy working on this game.

Items purchased so far:

* Cliffy Protectors and switch protectors

* Plastic set

* Plastic protectors

* Soccer ball

* Red Superbands

* Eject shields, Star Posts, Narrow posts, lane guides, and flipper buttons

* LED kit

* Color DMD

* Game Blades

* Left outlane plunger

* Right flipper button board

* Refurbished driver board

* Ramp decal set

The pictures have been taken with the glass off to get a better picture.

item Click on the Internet Pinball Database logo to the left. This is a GREAT resource to find out about the machine, see pictures, see reviews and download the rule sheet if one exists for the game. This provides additional insights into playing the game.

 

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First photo when the game was brought to my basement for restoration. They brought the game with the back glass off and I took this photo before I put the back glass on.

 

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The GI lights in the back box are out. I will rebuild J120 and J121.

 

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Play field is nice. It will look great when I replace a lot of the stuff and shine the ramps.

 

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The World Cup lights in column 1 and 7 do not work.

 

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These lights on the plastic are in column 7 and do not work.

 

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The yellow GI lights do not work.

 

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These lights on the ramp are also in column 7 and do not work.

 

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I will create a new molex connector for J120 and J121. I will use these connectors I found on Facebook from Makegoodies.com to connect the wires. As I will show, they work nicely.

 

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Created J121 and am connecting wires.

 

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Using the connector, I first add the wire from the game and lock with the orange clasp.

 

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I then add the wire I created that is about 6" and has the connector into the new molex to the other side of the connector and lock with the other orange clasp. Connection is now secure. I use my list below to ensure I am connecting the wires to the correct pin.

 

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The old connector. Note the burn on pin 1 (right).

 

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Lower connector, J121, installed.

 

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Upper connector, J120, also installed.

 

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Both original connectors with burn marks.

 

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On the bright side, ail the GI in the play field works and one strand of GI (lower) on the back box works. But the upper GI strand in the back box still is not working. At this point, I made an executive decision to replace the driver board rather than spend more time to figure out the issues, test, and possibly work on many circuits and move the board in and out of the game. I believe a new board will also solve my column 1 and 7 lamp issue. Plus at this stage in the games' life, I go to people's homes to replace the driver. By being proactive, this board should work for another 20 years or so.

 

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More GI works on the play field including the 3 yellow lights in the back.

 

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New driver board installed.

 

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All back box GI works.

 

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All controlled lamps in columns 1 and 7 work (although a few bulbs are burnt out).

 

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GI in back box with regular lights.

 

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GI in back box with LEDs. I was a bit creative to use green for the grass, blue for the shoes, red on right for the flames, red at the top left for the Bally logo, and yellow for the "World Cup Soccer" letters.

 

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I think it looks good. There is a small scratch on the artwork near the lower right of the soccer ball that shows a little more. Maybe I'll get the customer to buy a new one someday (but definitely not needed).

 

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A little yellow.

 

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Cleaned a bit.

 

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The game blades from Tilt Graphics arrived.

 

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About to take off all the ramps. Note how the ramps are yellow and dingy.

 

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I always label the connectors on both sides and the hole it comes through.

 

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Take off the lower portion of the right ramp first. This is the upper ramp. (The other ramp will be referred to as the "lower ramp".)

 

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Pointing to bolts to remove. I will lay them out on a table and note the positions to make it easy to replace.

 

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These screws connect the lower portion of the right ramp to the top portion of the right ramp (or upper ramp).

 

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Lower portion of the right (or upper) ramp removed.

 

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Pointing to bolts to remove for top portion of the right (or upper) ramp.

 

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The left divertor will need to be removed. As I will note below. When I remove the top divertor portion, I should just remove the shaft. I forget to do it until later. No big deal but just need to lift the play field an extra time later. (I made the same mistake on my restoration in 2015. I should have read through my 2015 restoration to not repeat the same mistakes.)

 

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Two screws at the base of the top ramp will be removed below.

 

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Two screws to remove the divertor.

 

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Divertor removed.

 

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Next remove the E clip and white spacer and washer.

 

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Washer goes on the bottom, then the white spacer, then the E clip.

 

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This is where I should have removed the divertor shaft. See pictures below.

 

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Remove lights.

 

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Lights removed.

 

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Remove plastic.

 

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Now the ramp screws will be removed.

 

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Ramp screws removed.

 

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Remove left and right hex bolt holding in the ramp protectors to the posts.

 

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Remove right post with circle plastic.

 

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Remove this bolt which also secures the wire ramp.

 

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I missed a few connectors that were hidden behind the opto board. (I do this every time on this game.)

 

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Right (upper) dingy ramp removed. I looked at the decals and they were coming off the ramp and had dirt on them. I ordered a new decal set to apply.

 

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We'll work on the wire ramp next.

 

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View with upper ramp removed.

 

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Upper ramp removed and locations noted.

 

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This ramp is removed next.

 

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The two bolts in the back are removed.

 

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Remove wire ramp.

 

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Wire ramp removed.

 

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We'll work on the left (lower) ramp next.

 

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This plastic needs to be removed to get to the bolts and screws underneath.

 

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Plastic removed.

 

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Two small screws need to be removed to unattach the left (lower) ramp from the wood.

 

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Second screw.

 

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Remove hex bolts.

 

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Remove wood screws to base of ramp.

 

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Remove right hex bolt to separate the ramp protector.

 

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Remove hex bolt on left side.

 

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Remove nuts and hex bolts holding the wood platform in place.

 

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Oops. I can't remove this lower ramp since the shaft is in the way. This is what I should have removed earlier to save a few minutes. But also need to remove the plastic on top of the goal since it is also stopping the ramp from moving forward.

 

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Goal plastic top removed.

 

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This plastic also needs to be removed to get the ramp off.

 

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Now we will remove the shaft.

 

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Noting the direction it is in. But when the top part is added it should be clear.

 

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Shaft there.

 

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The plunger can just be carefully removed from inside the coil.

 

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There is still a spring attached that needs to be removed.

 

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Unscrew the screw and remove the spring.

 

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Shaft removed.

 

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No more shaft.

 

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Now the lower ramp can be removed.

 

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All ramps removed.

 

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Remove top goal plastic.

 

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This is the coin toss entrance for the game. The opto switches are inside of this box on both sides. On a previous game, I was working on screwing in the ball guide to the plastic below and squeezed the box. It turns out the inside is not insulated and I touched the opto switch to ground and caused the opto board to fry. Not a fun experience and didn't smell very well. So to be proactive, I now take these apart and insulate the boxes.

 

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Took off the box on the other side first. Note no insulation. Note the opto switches with exposed solder points.

 

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Not insulated.

 

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This plastic will be removed. Note that it is dirty.

 

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You can see the dirt at the top.

 

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Removing the bolts to get the assembly apart.

 

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I will clean the inside.

 

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Before.

 

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Insulated.

 

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Electrical tape on the opto boards.

 

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New clear plastic to add.

 

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The inside cleaned. The black rubbers replaced with red. The plastic installed.

 

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Opto board added.

 

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Two middle nuts installed.

 

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Light board added back.

 

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While replacing all the controlled lights under the play field, I saw that this ejector was not moving at all. There is grease on the assembly. Grease IS NOT good usually on a pinball. I will take this apart tomorrow and clean. That should solve the issue or I will buy a new assembly since they are not expensive.

 

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Initial cleaning to begin. Note the dirt.

 

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Better cleaned. But still a line on the right in lane.

 

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Cleaned right in lane better.

 

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Note dirt above her socks.

 

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Clean. But still dirty under flipper. I will replace the flipper later and clean this better.

 

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A little better.

 

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Cleaner.

 

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LEDs installed on controlled lights. GI is still regular lamps.

 

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The worst thing you can do to a pinball machine is add grease. Look at the grease at the pivot point. In resting position, the plunger should be fully out of the coil. I need to remove the grease and it should work nicely.

 

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Remove cotter pin on left.

 

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You can see the gunk on the pivot and in the hole.

 

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Grease gunk in the hole.

 

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Cleaned this hole.

 

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Cleaned this hole and the pivot rod. Placed the assembly back and it works nicely.

 

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Replacing the display with a Color LCD from Colordmd.com

 

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Remove cables.

 

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Remove nuts and shield.

 

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Tape up old power connector. Not needed with new display.

 

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As instructions show, we'll remove the existing spacers and put the white ones in.

 

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Then use the existing spacers on this side and put back the washers and nuts.

 

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Attach ground.

 

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Attach power from J116 and the data ribbon.

 

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Beautiful color.

 

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Will now work on the plastics, flippers, protectors.

 

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Apron removed to clean underneath and check parts.

 

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Not too dirty but will be cleaned.

 

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Replace flasher LED.

 

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Clean under metal.

 

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Before.

 

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After.

 

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Removed screw and post and loosened metal guide to place Cliffy protector.

 

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Cliffy protector added.

 

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Post added with red super band.

 

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I'll remove this later to clean underneath.

 

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Flippers loosened to be removed.

 

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Flippers removed.

 

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Area cleaned. Work on plastics at the lower play field since I have some red super bands available.

 

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Posts, LEDs and super band.

 

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This plunger is mushrooming and can cause the ball to hit bad. I ordered a replacement.

 

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Left side.

 

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Switch before Cliffy protector. (I guess I didn't take an after immediately after. I will add later.)

 

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Existing plastic. Yellowed.

 

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New plastic.

 

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New plastic installed over plastic protector.

 

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(Prior pictures did not have the flasher in place. I put everything back together and forgot to add it back. So I turned off the game and replaced from below. It is there now.)

 

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More new plastics.

 

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Right sling area replaced.

 

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Old plastic.

 

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New plastic with lane guide added.

 

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Usually rivets are not in the path of the ball. I will need to find a manual riveter to fix this. Will show fixed pictures later.

 

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Right flipper assembly being replaced and cleaned.

 

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Right flipper replaced.

 

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Metal ball guide above trough hole removed to clean area.

 

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Area cleaned.

 

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Guide replaced. Arch will not be replaced until I replace the plunger on the left.

 

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Replace left flipper assembly and clean.

 

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Tested flippers. The right flipper buttons were not registering in test. This right flipper button board is bad and has been replaced.

 

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While I had the board out, I replaced the 3 flipper buttons as shown.

 

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Old.

 

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New.

 

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Both flippers replaced and working.

 

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Left side before.

 

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Clean around holes.

 

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Clean.

 

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All new buttons installed.

 

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Next we remove the coin toss area. There are two screws under the play field, two screws at the top front of the lane guide, and a wood screw behind the coin toss.

 

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Remove these two nuts and washers.

 

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Remove these two wood screws.

 

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Remove this cover.

 

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Cover removed. I cleaned the area under this guide.

 

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Need to remove this plastic to get to the wood screw holding in the mechanism.

 

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Remove this wood screw.

 

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Coin toss mechanism removed.

 

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Dirty under the coin toss.

 

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Cleaned.

 

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Replaced the right post and red rubber.

 

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I will add the Cliffy protector to the TV Award hole.

 

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Before view.

 

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Note the wear at the left and front of the hole.

 

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Note the dirt around the posts.

 

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The Cliffy protector to add.

 

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Remove the washer and nut of the right post.

 

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Remove the scope assembly. The left post nut and washer cannot be accessed until this assembly is removed.

 

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Remove this previously inaccessible washer and nut.

 

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Scoop assembly removed.

 

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Posts removed. Clean the area.

 

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This protector will cover the wear. Note the lip under the front of the protector. It appears that the wood is a little thicker than this was designed for. The lip broke off when I tried to bend it. The reality it is the protector would not fit with the lip.

 

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I broke off the lip (by accident). But it fits nicely.

 

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Posts installed.

 

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Protector covers the wear nicely.

 

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The protector is about 1/16" too short.

 

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Scoop reinstalled.

 

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Scoop and posts installed.

 

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Red protectors installed.

 

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I bought a manual riveter. This hole that I took the #4-40 screw out of was not aligning the metal guide and plastic. Upon further investigation, as shown below, the plastic was not cut straight. I filed down the plastic so the holes aligned.

 

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Note the top of the flat plastic. It is a bit bowed. I filed it so it is straight.

 

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Rivets installed.

 

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Other side of rivet. Need to file down so the ball can pass underneath.

 

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Using a metal file, I filed down the underside to about 1/16".

 

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The manual riveter and 1/8" x 1/8" rivets.

 

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The final parts arrived. This plunger can be replaced.

 

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Note that the tip is mushroomed which could cause the ball to be inconsistent.

 

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Old plunger, new plunger.

 

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New plunger installed.

 

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Before superband flipper rubbers installed.

 

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Superband flipper rubbers installed.

 

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This area will be worked on next.

 

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Before.

 

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Area cleaned, LEDs added, and posts added.

 

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Cliffy protector will be added here.

 

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Post removed. Deflector removed. Area will be cleaned. Note the wear around the hole. The purple base will also be replaced.

 

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Area cleaned. Cliffy protector shown.

 

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Cliffy protector lined up and installed.

 

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In order to remove this purpose base, the three bolts holding the ball pusher need to be removed.

 

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Old and new.

 

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Mechanism moved. Remove purple base.

 

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Completed area.

 

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Now I understand why someone tried to grease this area. As shown in this photo when the coil pulls in the plunger, it pulls it so far in that the elbow locks in place and it does not get released.

 

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If I push here I can release the plunger.

 

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Note the collar (washer) I installed to reduce the path of movement of the plunger so it will not lock up.

 

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Installed the plastic protector.

 

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Old and new plastic.

 

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New plastic and protector installed.

 

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Now I can re-install the coin toss mechanism. Reinstalled bolt behind mechanism, two wood screws on top, and two washers and nuts underneath.

 

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This is the plastic behind the coin toss. This is the old and new plastic.

 

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Plastic behind coin toss installed.

 

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Right plastic reinstalled. I tested clearances and the ball fits correctly above and below. Installed the plunger cover.

 

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Installed the arch.

 

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The right sling looks good.

 

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This area is next.

 

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Cleaned the play field, changed the lamps to LEDs, new posts and will add the Cliffy protector.

 

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Cliffy protector.

 

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Plastic protector, new plastic, rubbers, lamps, and posts.

 

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Next we'll work on the plastic above this one.

 

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Red posts, new plastic and protector and LEDs installed below the spinner.

 

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Incandescent lamps slowly going away.

 

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We'll work on the top left plastic, goal area, and last two Cliffy protectors.

 

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This top left plastic is yellowed.

 

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Old and new plastic.

 

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Removed plastic, cleaned, and replaced lamps with LEDs.

 

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Top left plastic and area replaced.

 

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The plastic to the right of the spinner will be changed next.

 

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Plastic removed. Play field cleaned. LEDs installed. About to add Cliffy protector.

 

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Cliffy protector added, and rubbers added.

 

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Purple shield base replaced next.

 

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Goal Cliffy protector will be added next.

 

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Posts removed.

 

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Area cleaned.

 

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Cliffy protector installed and posts added back.

 

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Posts attached and subway about to be replaced.

 

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This purple shield will be replaced.

 

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Optional Description

 

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Last Cliffy protector will be added to the right of the goal.

 

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This coil will be removed to add the last Cliffy protector. Once reinstalled, the friction will hold the protector in place.

 

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Cliffy protector added to the right of the goal.

 

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Plastic protector added.

 

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Left side of the play field is looking nice.

 

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Remove the old yellowed soccer ball.

 

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New and old soccer ball.

 

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Remove the soccer ball base to clean the play field.

 

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The area below the soccer ball was not very dirty.

 

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Cleaned.

 

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New soccer ball in place.

 

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Bumpers will be replaced.

 

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Lane guides removed. Area cleaned. LEDs added.

 

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New lane guides installed. Note the header plastic to the left of the left bumper. The plastic is broken below "Kick",

 

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Bumper assemblies removed. Note the dirt in the area.

 

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Old bumper assembly and new bumper body.

 

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The old plastic from the top right section with the rubbers exposed.

 

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Area cleaned, rubbers replaced, posts replaced.

 

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This is the base that the wire ramp goes into at the top of the play field here. I removed this to get the plastic out so I can replace it and moved the metal lamp surround.

 

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Broken header plastic removed.

 

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New plastic and protector on the left. Old plastic on the right.

 

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Header plastic with protector replaced. Connector placed below the play field. The wire ramp base has been replaced.

 

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Lower bumper assembly replaced.

 

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View of the inside of the bumper cap.

 

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All three bumper assemblies replaced. Next we add the lamp sockets and simply the wiring by getting rid of the metal tabs.

 

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Lamp sockets added and LEDs installed.

 

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Right plastic reinstalled.

 

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The main level of the play field is now complete.

 

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Replace the top of the goal with a new plastic.

 

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Note how yellow the original is.

 

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Photos of original decals since I will remove and replace with new ones.

 

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Ramp entry decal.

 

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A duplicate photo. (Too lazy to remove.)

 

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Clear mylar where the ball drops onto the lower ramp.

 

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After the decal is removed, glue remains. I use Goo Gone to loosen the glue and then rub it off.

 

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This is the area above cleaned.

 

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Lower ramp cleaned with decals removed.

 

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Decals installed and lower ramp installed.

 

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Plastic above lock installed.

 

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Flag decal and credits decal installed.

 

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This photo shows the plastic above the goal installed.

 

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Ramp entrance plastic at right side replaced.

 

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Plastic in front of soccer ball with protector installed.

 

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Now that the lower ramp is re-installed, I can add back the back left divertor.

 

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Plunger with spring placed back into coil and divertor rod pushed through the play field. The spring to the lower screw was not original and not needed.

 

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This photo and the following photos are of top ramp to ensure I add back decals and plastics.

 

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The round plastic is just attached with a screw.

 

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Decal locations and clear plastics.

 

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Flag decals. As I found on the lower ramp, the green decal above the plastic that looks like a plastic is not the same material as below. I could not take it off easily so it was easier to place the new decal on top of the decal.

 

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This switch is supposed to have a clear plastic on top, but missing from this game.

 

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Remove this round plastic.

 

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Remove this plastic to clean the ramp easier. (I should have removed the same plastic on the lower ramp sooner.)

 

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This plastic removed.

 

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Clear plastic removed.

 

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Upper ramp decals removed and ramp cleaned.

 

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New decals installed.

 

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Older plastic.

 

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New plastic with LEDs.

 

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Top ramp installed.

 

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The clear plastic above where the wire ramp will go will be removed to screw in the wire ramp.

 

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Wire ramp replaced.

 

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Flashers will be replaced with LEDs.

 

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Left flasher lamp will be replaced with LED.

 

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This is the top right switch that is missing the clear plastic and posts.

 

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Note yellow flasher domes replaced and the divertor replaced.

 

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Ramps installed except for lower right side ramp.

 

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Prettier lit.

 

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Final Ramp.

 

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Decal locations.

 

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Old decals.

 

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Old decals.

 

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Decals removed and ramps cleaned.

 

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Decals replaced.

 

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Lower ramp installed with posts also added to secure to right sling.

 

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All ramps installed. The "glamour" shots will show the side art blades. I won't add until I get the machine back home.

 

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When I went to play the game for the first time, the goalie did not move. I checked everything and this wire was not connected to the connector. I pushed it back in and it worked great.

 

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Replaced lights in coin door, start button, and extra ball button.

Virginia Sales Tax

Virginia sales tax is currently 6.0%. Sales tax for in-state orders applies to machines and parts. It does not apply to the delivery or repair services.

Warranty

As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.

Reasons You Should Let Us Deliver Your Pinball (or Another Machine)

  1. We will NOT provide a warranty for the machine since we cannot be assured that a problem did not happen when you transported the machine. (As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.)
  2. We take responsibility for any damage that may occur during the delivery process.
  3. We professionally set up the machine, connect all the connectors, attach the legs, head, etc. and ensure that the pinball works properly. If anything is out of adjustment due to moving the machine, we can fix it in a few minutes as compared to having to come to your house later and charging you a trip fee and repair charge.
  4. If anything major is out of adjustment, we can order parts and repair. This hardly ever happens but it could and you and the machine are protected.

Delivery Options

We are currently set up for local delivery only within the Northern Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, and North-Eastern West Virginia area. If you are interested in shipping the pinball machine, we will contact a shipper. You will pay all crating and postage costs.

If you would like us to deliver and set up within 50 miles of Purcellville, the charge is $300; within 100 miles $475. The delivery charge includes delivery to a first floor or basement level if walk-out.

We will not sell you a game/deliver the game if the only entrance to your basement is an inside the house staircase. They are too narrow. Plus we have to ensure we don't mess up carpet or wood. It just isn't worth it.

You may also come and pick up the machine from our location.