1994 Bally World Cup Soccer - SOLD

Check List When Buying A Pinball

Pinball

This game is a great family game and a great theme. It is very fun to play. Great for the whole family, especially a soccer family. I always try to have this game on hand since someone will always need a family friendly, great playing, great themed game.

This game has a new display, LEDs, posts, bumper caps, rubbers, plastics, plastic protectors, Cliffy hole protectors, decals, and many more cosmetic and functional improvements.

This is the first game that I have taken pictures of the restoration as I restored the game. The pictures with a white background are the "professional" pictures that I usually take and crop out the background to show the game. These pictures will be followed with over 100 pictures of the restoration (without whiting out the background to save time) and explain what I was doing.

The pictures have been taken with the glass off to get a better picture.

This game comes with a manual.

item Click on the Internet Pinball Database logo to the left. This is a GREAT resource to find out about the machine, see pictures, see reviews and download the rule sheet if one exists for the game. This provides additional insights into playing the game.

 

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The back glass is very nice but has a tiny scratch between the legs. The white background pictures were taken with the game in play mode so some items, like the soccer ball and goalie may be moving in some pictures.

 

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The playfield is beautiful.

 

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Note the metal protectors around the holes and goalie area. Note the new soccer ball.

 

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Middle playfield.

 

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Lower playfield.

 

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Note the new paper inserts.

 

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The cabinet is in really nice condition.

 

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The high scores were scrolling at the time I took this picture and the camera caught it in mid flight.

 

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The pictures below start the restoration.

 

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Back right leg did not go in. Looked at the bracket and the holes were stripped. There was an older version of the brack that looked like they were using on top of this.

 

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Here is the new bracket ($20) in position. It is ready to be screwed in. Note that the ground wire at the bottom will be connected to the bracket.

 

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Do you see what is missing? The display. That is why this has a brand new one ($200).

 

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Do you see what is missing? The goalie. Note that they used a tie to connect the switch. The ball is old. I will get a new one if they are making them. I bought new decals.

 

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As usual, the general illumination has problems. The back box lights are out. I will replace this driver board with a peviously repaired and improved version ($150).

 

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Note that the coil is taped well to the bracket. This will be replaced and working correctly. Above is the motor to the soccer ball. It is not working. I tested by putting the wires from a 3 AA battery pack to the two ends. If the motor were okay, it would have worked.

 

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Nice back box.

 

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NIce playfield. A little dirty but will clean up nicely. I bought new paper for the front right and left of the play field ($15)

 

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Note that I temporarily attached the goalie. I needed a washer. I should have painted it red and white in concentric circles.

 

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The ramps are in incredibly nice condition.

 

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The cabinet is in great condition. The best world cup soccer cabinet I have ever had.

 

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I just received all the replacement parts I ordered:
LED Kit $255
Rubber Kit $25
Manual $27
Teal Bumper Caps $9
Violet Eject Shields $9
Foam Pads (to put behind pargets) $1
Posts - Teal Double $4
Lift Trim $6
Cabinet Leg Protectors $20
Soccer Motor $95
Posts - Teal $9
Narrow Posts - Teal $9
Lane Guide - Teal $10
Plastic Set $155
Cliffy Protectors $100
Plastic Protectors $35
Instruction Card Set $15
Decal Set $25

Subtotal $809

Since I had to buy these parts from 4 different places:
Postage: $52

Then add the leg bracket ($20), new lock ($6), new Display ($200) and the repaired driver board ($150) [which should be done on EVERY GAME)

$1,237 in parts, repairs, postage

Usually, at this point there should be no other surprises. But one never knows.

I guess the point is that you can't compare this to a game on eBay or Craisglist unless they have all the above replacement parts.

I restore my games to last and have very little warranty work.

Now I can start to spend 40 hours or more to start restoring the game. I think my hourly rate when the game is ready to sell is 10 cents an hour. So there will be no negotiation on the price of the game.

It is now 4/28/2012 and I posted the game for sale. I added new legs and hardware ($75), new playfield glass ($75), and another leg bracket ($20).


 

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When ever I take apart a game, I use another game to place paper on the game and tape together so I can lay pieces of the game here and catalog the items and locations.

 

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The top ramp is coming off. I am noting the location and sizes of the posts.

 

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A bolt is missing. I will find a replacement later.

 

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Noting the location and sizes of the posts.

 

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Only one bolt is holding the ramp on the top right.

 

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Note the holes and how the purple plastics will be replaced later and Cliffy protectors added.

 

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Before I remove a ramp or take apart a connector, I label it on both sides. Although most are obvious, this makes it simplier to find the pairs.

 

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As I take apart the ramps, I note the locations of the posts and the order that washers and such are connected and whether they are above or below a ramp plastic or wire ramp.

 

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Note that all the rubbers will be replaced with black rubbers and all ramps will be cleaned.

 

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Note the yellow tinge on all plastics.

 

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Note the red target on the right is missing the foam behind the target. Both will be replaced to look consistent.

 

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Before the top ramp has been removed. The front of the top ramp on the right has been removed.

 

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Before I can remove the back of the top ramp, I will need to remove the divertor.

 

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Note that the divertor has been removed on the left (to the left of the yellow flasher on the left).

 

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The top back ramp is gone. The divertor post is showing on the left. Note the ugly jerry-rigged blue plastic on the left.

 

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The lower plastic ramp will be removed next. Noting the posting of posts, etc.

 

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Noting lower ramp posts, etc.

 

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The top of the goal has to come off to get off the ramp.

 

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This is the mechanism for the divertor on the left that I will use an allen wrench to take out.

 

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Another view of the divertor (so I put it back correctly).

 

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The divertor has been taken out. I noted the allen wrench size in the bottom of the cabinet. You can see what I was doing on Easter day. 100 years from now, hopefully someone will find this machine and my signature.

 

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Note the plastic is broken at the bottom nut.

 

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The items currently taken out of the game. The metal ramp is out of the game. As you will see in pictures below, the bracket for the ramp had the left screw area broken off so I had to order a new bracket.

 

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The lower ramp has been taken off too.

 

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The order of taking the parts off.

 

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Note that I used my Dr Who to place the parts on. The game sold while I was working on the WCS so I had to transplant the paper and parts to another game.

 

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The game with all ramps removed.

 

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Top area.

 

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Note the location of the left spinner. The right side is on top of the plastic on the right that I will forget (for a second) to put back.

 

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The transplant is about to begin.

 

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This will be the first plastic to be replaced.

 

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This is the bracket that the left hole screw part broke off. Look at the right hole and you can see the turns. The left is missing it.

 

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backglass with lights.

 

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Replaced with LEDs.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Clean.

 

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Clean playfield.

 

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Mostly clean.

 

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The before shot.

 

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The "before the Cliffy protector" shot.

 

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Another before shot.

 

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Dirty before the Cliffy protectors.

 

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New plastic, protector underneath (it sticks out 1/8") and rubbers.

 

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Cleaning the right sling.

 

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Note that this plastic has rivets. I need to use a dremel tool to get the rivet out and replace with a #4 1/4" or 3/8" bolt and nut.

 

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The transplant will begin shortly. I basically drill the rivet out by getting it so hot it melts the plastic and I eventually strip the metal around the edges so the rivet pops through. It is burning hot and try to catch it in a rag.

 

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A t-nut is missing. At the time that I worked on this, I did not realize that it was stuck in the wires against the bracket on the left. Do you see it above the white connector at the left?

 

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A new t-nut to replacing the "missing" one.

 

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The t-nut installed with the b olt attached from the top.

 

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Note that bolts holding the metal in place. New plastic, new posts, new protector, new rubbers, new LEDs. Clean and shiny.

 

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Before.

 

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Close up of the hole, wear and cruddy purple plastic.

 

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The new plastic ready for insertion.

 

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Cleaning and prepping for Cliffy protector.

 

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Underside of the hole. Need to remove and replace this purple plastic.

 

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Cliffy protector and new purple plastic.

 

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Plastic and plastic protector installed.

 

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I will work on the top left plastic next.

 

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Note foam is missing behind right red target.

 

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Plastic, protector, posts, rubbers, and LEDs replaced.

 

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New foam behind red targets, new rubbers, posts, LEDs, Cliffy protector.

 

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At this point, I should have taken the goal off so I can put the Cliffy protector in. I didn't so later I have to take this plastic off.

 

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This shows a better view of the goal screws that will be covered by the plastic that I should have removed at this point.

 

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Pretty.

 

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This game uses 6 Cliffy protectors. Each requires the entire section of the game removed to add. A lot of work but beautiful results.

 

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LEDs in bumper caps, new bumper caps, new lane guides. **NOTE** When I went to play the game after I put the entire game together, the ball was being caught of the left lane. I should have tested the ball clearance when the game looked like this. It turned out that I needed to loosen the lower posts of the left lane guide and middle lane guide and the balls went through nicely.

 

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The Cliffy protector that will go over the "TV Award" hole is to the left of the whole. Note the ugly ball.

 

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New ball. But I should have replaced the motor at the same time. I replace the motor later on.

 

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Prepping the TV Award hole for a Cliffy protector.

 

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The Cliffy protector in place.

 

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Posts in place to secure the Cliffy protector.

 

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The TV Award from the bottom.

 

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VUK secured.

 

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Hole complete.

 

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The broken bracket repair.

 

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The broken bracket.

 

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The coil placed in the bnew bracket. I will end up having to take the middle bracket out and putting the plunger and spring and the brown piece and metal piece into this assembly. It was a pain in the neck and took several attempts to do. I hate working on bumpers.

 

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As I said in the picture above, the plungerspring, and brown and metal pieces need to bein the area inside the above bracket.

 

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Thankfully I wedged the brown and silver item into the bracket. Ready to attach to the two posts.

 

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Attached.

 

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To replace these plastics, take out the switch to the right. The remove 3 screws from plastic. The kicker is on a spring and can pull down to move the purple plastic.

 

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Replaced another one that was covered in wires.

 

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Old and new purple plastic.

 

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LED lights up the hole. It looks nice.

 

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The lower hole on the left lit up.

 

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The hole on the right lit up.

 

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This is where I add the Cliffy protector to the goal and have to remove the plastic.

 

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Goal removed to add the Cliffy protector.

 

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Cliffy protector.

 

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Cliffy protector.

 

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Old plastic with rivets. I really only needed to remove the rivet for the light, since the rivets ionto the plastic, as shown below, will make the dome useless.

 

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Dome with rivets removerd on top. New dome below.

 

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Almost done, still need to add light.

 

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Flasher added.

 

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I usually don't wear jewerly when fixing a game. I worked on this plastic as "one more thing" before I went to bed one night.

 

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Replacing the soccer ball motor, which I should have done when replacing the soccer ball before.

 

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The new $100 motor.

 

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Took off soccer ball and in next picture will show allen wrench to loosen the two screws shown on the post.

 

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The base removed.

 

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Dirt is every place on a pinball. The previous owner of the game tried to fix the motor with oil. That DOES NOT work. They managed to pour oil all over the motor casing and bracket which does nothing for the motor itself.

 

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Replacement of the flipper buttons.

 

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New button.

 

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Installed.

 

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New goalie rubber, decal, and finally the new wire ramp bracket came.

 

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The new goalie installed. The dog is also a new decal.

 

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Removing old bracket.

 

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The broken bracket. Note the left hole is missing the screw area.

 

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Ramp installed. Now I can put back all ramps.

 

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Lower ramp installed.

 

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Lock area also installed.

 

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All ramps installed.

 

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Virginia Sales Tax

Virginia sales tax is currently 6.0%. Sales tax for in-state orders applies to machines and parts. It does not apply to the delivery or repair services.

Warranty

As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.

Reasons You Should Let Us Deliver Your Pinball (or Another Machine)

  1. We will NOT provide a warranty for the machine since we cannot be assured that a problem did not happen when you transported the machine. (As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.)
  2. We take responsibility for any damage that may occur during the delivery process.
  3. We professionally set up the machine, connect all the connectors, attach the legs, head, etc. and ensure that the pinball works properly. If anything is out of adjustment due to moving the machine, we can fix it in a few minutes as compared to having to come to your house later and charging you a trip fee and repair charge.
  4. If anything major is out of adjustment, we can order parts and repair. This hardly ever happens but it could and you and the machine are protected.

Delivery Options

We are currently set up for local delivery only within the Northern Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, and North-Eastern West Virginia area. If you are interested in shipping the pinball machine, we will contact a shipper. You will pay all crating and postage costs.

If you would like us to deliver and set up within 50 miles of Purcellville, the charge is $300; within 100 miles $475. The delivery charge includes delivery to a first floor or basement level if walk-out.

We will not sell you a game/deliver the game if the only entrance to your basement is an inside the house staircase. They are too narrow. Plus we have to ensure we don't mess up carpet or wood. It just isn't worth it.

You may also come and pick up the machine from our location.