1995 Bally Theatre of Magic

Check List When Buying A Pinball

Pinball

I picked up this Theatre of Magic for me. It will go nicely with the NIB Houdini I have on order.

To get the game working

* Replaced battery holder

* Adjusted outlane eddy switches (will buy auto adjusting boards)

* Replaced service switch (escape button not working)

* Replaced the driver board.

* Replaced the Game Rom (1.0 --> 1.3 X)

* Added the WPC Power Fix Daughterbord from KAHR.US.

* Replaced the right flipper button board.

I added:

* Yellow Pincab leg protectors

* New legs and new levelers

* Color LED Display

* 3D Backglass

* LEDs

* Pinbits.com Trough Jam

* Pinduino ramp LEDs

* New plastics, new ramps, new plastic protectors, new purple rubbers, new posts, new decals, and new trunk.

The pictures have been taken with the glass off to get a better picture.

This game comes with a manual.

item Click on the Internet Pinball Database logo to the left. This is a GREAT resource to find out about the machine, see pictures, see reviews and download the rule sheet if one exists for the game. This provides additional insights into playing the game.

 

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3D back glass, LEDs, and color LED display.

 

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View of the playfield. The LEDs on the ramps are a mod from Pinduino. During attract mode it makes nice patterns. During game play it reacts to switches, flashers, and coils. Note the different colors in the photos on the ramps.

 

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Top play field.

 

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Mid play field.

 

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Lower play field.

 

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I plan to cover the arch with a megnet cover that looks like a trunk.

 

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Right side of cabinet.

 

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Left side of cabinet.

 

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Front.

 

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Details.

 

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Details.

 

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Details.

 

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Details.

 

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Details.

 

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Ball view of the play field.

 

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When I first set up the game.

 

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The display is not bad. I will probably replace with an LED.

 

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Play field ok.

 

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Trunk broke - surprise!

 

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Need a new trap door decal.

 

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Left and right sling broken.

 

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Cabinet is nice except a scratch above the A in Theatre.

 

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This side is nice.

 

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When it first entered the building (after front legs added).

 

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Front legs on. On the lift to add the back legs.

 

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When I first got it. Not yet turned on.

 

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Battery holder removed and an external one replaced. Game now works 100%.

 

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Trunk broke. I have a replacement. Hopefully this front area will get a Cliffy someday. There is a hole in the yellow on the right where a post was previously. There is a T nut with a bolt from the bottom that holds the trunk assembly in place.

 

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Hopefully this back will get a Cliffy someday.

 

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The trap door decal will need to be replaced and the wood area the hole protected.

 

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I will need to replace J120. A wire is burnt for this GI string on the back box. The game will be changed to LEDs.

 

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The Escape button on the service switch did not work. I replaced the set of 4 switches.

 

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Broken left and right sling plastic. The left purple plastic is also broken up the top (which should cover the orange plastic).

 

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Broken trunk.

 

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Version 1.0 of code. Will need to update to 1.3.

 

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Note both out lane eddy switches on. I need to adjust them. I will replace with auto adjusting eddy boards when/if they are available from pinbits. They seem to have a great product that they can't keep in stock or can't judge demand. Note how smoky black the subway is.

 

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Clean cabinet.

 

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I'll clean up the subway.

 

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Take MPU out to replace 1.0 Gamerom with 1.3 gamerom.

 

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New game rom installed.

 

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Version 1.3 X

 

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I thought the play field was really nice, and it is still is, but noticed the top of the T on the Spirit Ring insert is missing. Oh well.

 

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Ramp screw holes broken on both ramps here....

 

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...and here.

 

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About to replace J120.

 

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Note burn marks on the right side of J120.

 

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New connector in place.

 

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Fuse was blown. Should have been a 5 amp slow blow and was a 4 amp slow blow.

 

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All lights work now.

 

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I replaced the driver board. The 18 volt circuit was not consistent. See the next two pictures for a description of the problem and solution.

 

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This the the KAHR.US WPC Power Fix Daughterboard that I add to every Bally/Williams game now.

I have been adding the daughter boards to all my Bally/Williams games for a few years now and recommend them. If your 5 volt circuit drops occasionally, this board ensures the game does not reset. (If your 5 volts drops all the time like when pressing both flippers it usually signals a problem on the driver board.) This game would reset when the ball hit the switch for either ramp. Rob, the designer of the board, told me my 18 volts was having the issue. In test mode, the game reset when all lights were turned on. I replaced the driver board and the game consistently provides 18 volts. Very nice to have the board to isolate a problem I didn't even know I have. 

Above you can see the board. It goes into J210 on the MPU then the Connector goes into the board.

 

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I highly recommend them (and I am not a paid spokesman). Tell them I sent you and Rob will give me a "Thank you" :)

 

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The new 3D backglass still in protective packaging. Hard to see effect in a picture.

 

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New back glass arrived from Marco Specialities. The box was opened but the glass was not protected but okay.

 

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Existing back glass with LED Color Display.

 

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LEDs in back box with color suggestions from folks on pinside.com.

 

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Cleaning the new back glass.

 

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Positioning the new 3D back glass translite on the glass.

 

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New 3D back glass and color display.

 

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The old back glass is sitting on the table.

 

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Most of the parts to start working on the restoration.

 

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I moved the new parts to my manual fork lift. I prepared the table with paper to label and place parts I take off the game.

 

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Most of the new parts moved here.

Below I show how to take all the ramps off. In a few photos, I started removing a ramp and realized soething else should be removed first.

Here are instructions with me moving the steps to be more logical.

1. Before you do any work on the play field, lift the play field (ensure balls are removed). I mark all connectors that go through the play field. I use number books I purchase from Home Depot (electrical department). I label both sides of the connector and the hole that the connector goes through. Then I disconnect the connector.

2. The right wire ramp has two nuts that need to be removed below the play field next to the bottom right of the play field as it is raised up. There are three nuts in the area, it is the two closest to the end of the board.

3. Take off the Tiger (hex screws in back).

4. Take off the mirror (hex screws in back).

5. The cross wire ramp would be the most logical item to take off next. But since the magnet has a connector under the plastic ramp, it cannot be removed until later. You will see in my pictues below, I had to secure the ramp as I moved the playfield up and down. If you do step 1 and 2 above, you can unscrew the screw that holds the cross ramp to the right wire ramp and just move it to the left.

6. Remove the entry ramp to the right side. First remove the plastic being held on with two nuts. Then remove two small wood screws at the entrance of the ramp. Finally remove the hex bolt at the top.

7. Before the right wire ramp can be removed, remove the plastic at the entrance to the right wire ramp at the back right.

8. Remove the right wire ramp. Take off nut into right sling. Take off the bolt to the right of the plastic ramp. Note that there is a protector metal flap that holds the clear plastic to the plastic ramp. Take off the bolt below the right bumper.

9. Take off the right plastic ramp. Remove ramp entry screws. There are 4 nuts to remove with the washers below and above the ramp.

10. Now the connector to the magnet on the left wire ramp can be marked, disconnected, and the wire ramp removed.

11. Take off lower plastic ramp. Remove entrance screws, sling nut, left lower nut, top left post and top right nut.

 

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Remove tiger with two screws in the back (hex).

 

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Tiger removed. Remove mirror.

 

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Mirror removed.

 

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Remove the screw that attaches the cross wire ramp to the right ramp. Since the magnet still has a connector under the plastic ramp, the cross ramp cannot yet be removed. Move the cross ramp to the left at the moment.

 

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As I note above, the connectors should be labelled and disconnected as the first step to avoid raising and lowering the play field. Four connectors on the left.

 

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Two connectors one in each hole. Labelled 28 and 27.

 

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One last connector in the hole above the coil.

 

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Remove the screw holding the cross ramp to the right ramp.

 

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Ramp moved to the left until later.

 

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I was about to remove the right plastic ramp. But need to remove other things first as noted above.

 

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Remove entry ramp on right.

 

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Remove two screws at the bottom.

 

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Remove the plastic.

 

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Remove the top screw.

 

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Remove ramp.

 

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Remove top right plastic.

 

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Plastic removed.

 

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I will replace plastics. Note that they are yelllowed.

 

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Yellowed.

 

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I tied the cross ramp to the left side since I needed to raise and lower the play field. If you follow the steps above, you will not need to keep raising and lowering the play field.

 

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The two nuts holding the right wire ramp need to be removed from the bottom.

 

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Remove the nut at the sling.

 

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Remove screw. There is a metal flap that holds the clear plastic at the entrance of the wire ramp in place.

 

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The orientation of this metal flap.

 

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Remove this screw.

 

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Right wire ramp removed.

 

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Remove right plastic ramp. (The entrance screws were previously removed.) Remove this nut.

 

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Remove this nut.

 

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Actualy both nuts at the end of this ramp.

 

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Remove this nut.

 

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Top plastic ramp removed.

 

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Mark this connector, disconnect and remove the cross ramp.

 

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Cross ramp removed.

 

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Remove lower ramp. Remove entry screws.

 

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Remove this nut (which was missing from the game).

 

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Remove this post. (I forgot to add this post back in when putting the game back together. I should have left the post in place to remember that it needs to be in the game. Also, I should have paid attention to the whole in the ramp with no support. I will need to remove the top ramp and cross ramp to add this back in. I may wait until the parts are ready to exchange the wire ramps.

 

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Remove this nut.

 

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Remove this nut on sling.

 

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Remove this post. (But as I state above, keep it here to remember to put it back after the lower ramp is removed.)

 

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Remove ramp.

 

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All ramps removed.

 

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Tolls used to remove ramps. Hammer was used to tap the bolts through the playfield for the right wire ramp.

 

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My notes I documented above on steps to remove ramps.

 

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Ramps removed.

 

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Note that the two posts have a mini flipper rubber around them to stop balls from getting stuck.

 

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Remove trunk with 4 screws at the top.

 

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Trunk removed.

 

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Remove arch. Then remove the right side of the arch.

 

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Remove the metal wall.

 

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Note the dirt under the metal guide.

 

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Clean.

 

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I will clean all areas the ball touches. The VUK wires do not have connectors so I cannot move pieces out of the way. I have to left them hang.

 

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These will come off to get to the subway.

 

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Before I can take off the VUK and trap door, I have to remove the flap.

 

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Note that the Purple/Orange wire and the Orane/Blue wire behind are both cut and the wire is exposed. I fixed this.

 

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Wires wrapped with electrical tape.

 

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Dangling parts to get to the subway.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Clean.

 

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Put back together.

 

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Removed decal. Now need to remove glue.

 

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Removed glue residue with GOO GONE. Placed the new decal and put the flap back.

 

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After I put the subway back together (after it was hanging). Trough 1 did not work in switch test mode when the play field was down. I looked at the trough boards and they were fine. I raised the play field in switch test mode and the switch worked. This implied that a wire may be causing the problem. I realized that I needed to look at the switches in the same column (trough all worked but trough 1 so the column was fine) or row. I check the switches on the row. The white/red wire was touching the lug but not soldered in place. I soldered it and all switches in the row worked.

 

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I don't know why I took this picture at this point. But the subway looks really clean so I left it.

 

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This picture shows thet the wire/red wire is just resting on the lug where the yellow wire is soldered.

 

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I used my finger and the wire lifted. So I soldered it back and it worked.

 

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About to solder back in place.

 

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Put rag in place in case any solder drips.

 

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Replace lights and flashers in the back on both sides.

 

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Replace lights behind the curtain.

 

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Start to replace plastics.

 

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Replaced lane guide.

 

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Working on sling.

 

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Left sling replaced with purple rubber.

 

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Lit.

 

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Right side next. Note that the right plastic in the middle was removed to easily put the flap to the trap door back on.

 

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Lower slings replaced.

 

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Add arch back.

 

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Add the right cover over the plunger.

 

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Arch replaced.

 

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The screw to this post was in a hole that was too large. I filled it with putty and re-screwed in the post.

 

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I filled in the hole to the right of the T nut to the left of the trunk.

 

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Adding decals.

 

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Removed decal and cleaned.

 

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New decal.

 

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Decals.

 

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New spinner decals.

 

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Other side of spinner.

 

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Wood putty dried.

 

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Used wood paint sticks to fill in red and yellow. Once it dried, the colors better matched the play field and hardly noticeable.

 

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New post inserted into putty filled area.

 

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Old plastic. Yellowed.

 

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New plastic installed.

 

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Work on this plastice next.

 

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Replaced plastic.

 

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Remove posts

 

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Clear plastic replaced.

 

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All plastics back in place.

 

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I will replace the workig trunk opto board with Ingo's board which include Leon's fix.

 

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Note position of set screw and that it is lined up with left opto.

 

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Remove wires from this connector to go through the black plastic.

 

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Used a small screw driver to remove wires. I notes the positions.

 

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Opto interrupter removed.

 

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Unscrew board.

 

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Replace with new board.

 

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Put new aluminum interrupter on with set screw and align on left.

 

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Put the connector back together.

 

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New trunk added.

 

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Pinduino board that goes into J126. I taped the back to ensure no shorts.

Virginia Sales Tax

Virginia sales tax is currently 6.0%. Sales tax for in-state orders applies to machines and parts. It does not apply to the delivery or repair services.

Warranty

As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.

Reasons You Should Let Us Deliver Your Pinball (or Another Machine)

  1. We will NOT provide a warranty for the machine since we cannot be assured that a problem did not happen when you transported the machine. (As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.)
  2. We take responsibility for any damage that may occur during the delivery process.
  3. We professionally set up the machine, connect all the connectors, attach the legs, head, etc. and ensure that the pinball works properly. If anything is out of adjustment due to moving the machine, we can fix it in a few minutes as compared to having to come to your house later and charging you a trip fee and repair charge.
  4. If anything major is out of adjustment, we can order parts and repair. This hardly ever happens but it could and you and the machine are protected.

Delivery Options

We are currently set up for local delivery only within the Northern Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, and North-Eastern West Virginia area. If you are interested in shipping the pinball machine, we will contact a shipper. You will pay all crating and postage costs.

If you would like us to deliver and set up within 50 miles of Purcellville, the charge is $300; within 100 miles $475. The delivery charge includes delivery to a first floor or basement level if walk-out.

We will not sell you a game/deliver the game if the only entrance to your basement is an inside the house staircase. They are too narrow. Plus we have to ensure we don't mess up carpet or wood. It just isn't worth it.

You may also come and pick up the machine from our location.