Terminator 2 - Judgment Day Restoration

Check List When Buying A Pinball

Pinball

A customer dropped off a T2 with a budget to restore. I was able to increase the budget to do what I thought needed to be done. This was a great game in 1991 and continues to be a great game today.

The pictures have been taken with the glass off to get a better picture.

This game comes with a manual.

item Click on the Internet Pinball Database logo to the left. This is a GREAT resource to find out about the machine, see pictures, see reviews and download the rule sheet if one exists for the game. This provides additional insights into playing the game.

 

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Here are the glamour shots of the game when complete. As you will see along the way, I cleaned the cabinet, replaced the white flipper buttons, new plastics, plastic protectors, new plastic ramp, new posts, new LEDs, new blue superband rubbers, new skull and ship. As you look through the photos, you will see how I used a black wood paint pen to clean up the missing black areas. I also used this on the coin door.

 

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Right side back box.

 

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Left side cabinet view.

 

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Left side cabinet.

 

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Left side back box.

 

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Front with cleaned up coin door. The right coin drop could use a new insert but I didn't catch that when working on determining what to buy. The customer was happy with it as it is.

 

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The play field with new flippers, new plastics, LEDs, paper inserts.

 

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Full view.

 

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Back box with LEDs.

 

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The play field is in very nice condition.

 

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New skull, missing plane was added at left, new plastics, blue superbands, target decals, ramp entrance signs (right was totally missing).

 

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The game when I first received it.

 

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There was a thick layer of dirt, broken plastics, missing parts.

 

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Note the broken sign on the left and the missing sign on the right ramp. The plastic to the left of the left bumper is broken. The bottom section of the skull is glued with yellowing glue.

 

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Crackling rubber posts.

 

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Broken left sign.

 

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I cleaned the lower area above the flippers. Just a small area but very dirty. It cleaned up nicely.

 

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You can see the dirt trails on the cabinet. I'll clean it later with Sprayway's Crazy Clean.

 

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The game was stored with the batteries in. I told the customer that the MPU would probably be corroded. The batteries were very corroded.

 

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Bad batteries.

 

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I cleaned up the battery holder, but the connection to the board and the chips below the battery holder where corroded.

 

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You should be able to see the corrosion below the battery holder in about the middle of the photo. It is above the second from the left chip on top.

 

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Another view of the corrosion.

 

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The black rubber should not be there. There should be another red cover with 5/16" rubbers on each post.

 

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The plastic at the top where the glass slides into is broken.

 

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Here is the replacement guide.

 

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The right sling is firing but not engaging since the elbow is broken as shown.

 

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The following are just the photos as the game arrived.

 

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The game is on. None of the GI is working. As we will see later, some of it due to burnt out bulbs, some due to a missing trace and wires not wired correctly in a connector.

 

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The game is on, but on general illumination. The back box has light.

 

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The broken sign (again).

 

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A ship is missing at this location.

 

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A sign is totally missing.

 

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Blue plastic to left of red bumper broken at bottom.

 

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We will start removing ramps starting with the right ramp.

 

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The left ramp will also be removed.

 

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General illumination in back box was working when I got this.

 

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J115 controls the 5 General Illumination circuits. The connector was split in two so I labeled them Top and Bottom.

 

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The J115 connector was not wired exactly correct so I had to move some of the pins.

 

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Once I fixed the connectors, all general illumination circuits worked except for the lower left area of the play field. Once I checked the circuit diagram, the top pin was not getting connectivity to the trace right above it. Looking closely at the pin, it was missing the metal around the pin. I tried to add solder but it did not flow. I added this black wire from the back of the pin to the exposed area on the trace.

 

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The wire connected to the back of the pin. The red wires are previous fixes done to this board.

 

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All of the general illumination circuits now work including the lower left area.

 

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So nice with light.

 

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This area was fixed with that black wire shown above.

 

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Note that some of the black on the coin door near the coin entries is missing. I also cleaned up the gun.

 

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The broken sling plunger.

 

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The broken sling plunger next to the new plunger.

 

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The new plunger installed. The sling now works.

 

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Regular lights in the back box

 

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LEDs in the back box

 

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Artwork with LEDs in place.

 

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Most of the new parts for the restore.

 

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Cleaning the right side of the cabinet.

 

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Sprayway Crazy Clean is a great cleaner.

 

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Original white dirty flipper buttons.

 

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New buttons.

 

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New buttons installed.

 

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Before I remove the ramps and other items from the play field., I label all the connectors that go through the play field. including the hole that each connector passes through.

 

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The eject shields will be replaced. Note that the plastic wings are broken off the old one (but on the new). These wings guide the ball correctly out of the hole.

 

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About to remove the apron to clean underneath it.

 

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Apron removed. Note the dirt.

 

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Amazingly dirty under the apron.

 

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Cleaning.

 

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Removing the metal pieces to clean beneath them.

 

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Clean.

 

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Removing the lane guides at the bottom to clean up the area.

 

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You can see the yellowing of the clear plastics.

 

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Now to get the right ramp off. This nut and washer needs to be removed. When I put the game back together I will replace all visible hardware with shiny new hardware.

 

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Remove this screw.

 

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The wires go into a hole under the plastic part of the ramp. In hindsight, I can see that the switch my finger is on is attached to the ramp with electrical tape rather than a nut plate.

 

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The plastic ramp is attached in the middle with this post.

 

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and on the outside with this post.

 

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The wire and plastic ramp at the right is removed.

 

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The ramp on my staging area.

 

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Now I will remove the wire ramp from the VUK near Skull to the gun at the right side. This screw holds the wire ramp into the play field. at the gun.

 

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Now the fun of removing the skull and the plastics which are all broken.

 

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Pointing at the broken left sign for the millionth time I guess. But need to remove the screws holing the sign so we can get the ramp out.

 

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Remove the two wood screws into the flap at the ramp entrance.

 

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Remove the left wire ramp by removing the screw into the play field. here.

 

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And remove this nut and washer here.

 

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Remove the entry switch. The sign has already been removed. NOTE: Clean the metal ramp NOW and put back the three pieces NOW. The sign brackets on top, this switch bracket and then the ramp. Use #6-32 screws and nuts to put back in place while it is easy to reach. I did it later ad it was much harder to do.

 

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The metal ramp is attached at the back with two larger hex screws.

 

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This plastic needs to be removed first.

 

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Removed and yellow. Now we can reach the hex screws.

 

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Remove the two hex screws.

 

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Removed.

 

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Left ramp removed. Now we can get the rest of the skull area.

 

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Remove the cap to get to the plastic below easier.

 

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Plastic removed.

 

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These are the 4 screws holding the wire ramp into the play field.

 

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Wire ramp removed.

 

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I removed the VUK to get to the nut holding the screw behind the VUK hole. This is where a post with rubber goes that the ball will hit to stop and fall into the VUK.

 

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Removing the nut.

 

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This is what was on the other side. When I put it back together, there will be complete plastics rather than remnants.

 

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The screw and nut are removed. The VUK can be put back temporarily with one screw.

 

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All ramps removed.

 

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More parts on the floor.

 

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Dirt to clean up.

 

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This target was replaced. It will not matter since I will put decals on the target. It is missing the foam behind the target that will be added later.

 

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Adding foam behind yellow target.

 

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I got a slight electrical buzz when leaning both hands on the side rail. I knew the plug was missing the ground. This is common. When the power went to 3 prongs, the old arcades never changed their outlets and the routers simply cut off the ground prong. Wouldn't it be great if everyone did the correct thing instead of the simple, easy thing?

 

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New 3 prong plug.

 

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All lights changed to LEDs. In test mode. Used the burst photo option to pull the photo when all lights were lit.

 

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Blue posts.

 

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Blue posts and rubbers. Note that the rubbers to the right of the lower bumper stick out a little and will slow down the ball. Later I will change it to a figure 8 so there is more space for the ball to roll through.

 

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The red eject shield also will be replaced.

 

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New eject shield.

 

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Right side rubbers and plastics.

 

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Left side rubbers and plastics.

 

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When moving these post spacers from old to new plastics, I bend in the top so it can fit through the hole....

 

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...then I use this poker to poke through and widen the top over the plastic.

 

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Look at the prior photo and this photo, the two rubbers are twisted in a figure 8 to provide more space for the ball to the right of the 3 red targets.

 

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Old and new skull.

 

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VUK wire ramp reinstalled.

 

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New skull on new plastics and plastic protectors.

 

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Clear plastic added above plastics. You can see the old yellow one on the towel.

 

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The skull area reinstalled.

 

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Testing that everything works.

 

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The right and left ramp reinstalled and testing that all switches work.

 

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New ship added.

 

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Sign added at entrance to right ramp.

 

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Note that the coin door has been touched up with black paint.

 

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I will replace the flipper parts since they are the most used portion of the game.

 

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New flipper bats. Shiny and white.

 

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Note the old apron paper at the right and left.

 

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Note the pretty new apron paper right and left.

 

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Target decals will now be added. Before...

 

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...After.

 

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Before...

 

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...After.

 

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Before...

 

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...After.

 

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Replacing flipper parts under the play field.

 

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This flipper is installed wrong. The lugs should be in the middle away from the coil stop since the coil stop gets the most vibration.

 

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Same with the left flipper.

 

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Right flipper assembly removed to be cleaned and parts replaced.

 

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New flipper assembly. Note that lugs on coil now in the center.

 

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Left flipper before.

 

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Parts removed to clean and replace.

 

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Flippers back with lugs in the middle.

 

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New flipper bats.

Virginia Sales Tax

Virginia sales tax is currently 6.0%. Sales tax for in-state orders applies to machines and parts. It does not apply to the delivery or repair services.

Warranty

As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.

Reasons You Should Let Us Deliver Your Pinball (or Another Machine)

  1. We will NOT provide a warranty for the machine since we cannot be assured that a problem did not happen when you transported the machine. (As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.)
  2. We take responsibility for any damage that may occur during the delivery process.
  3. We professionally set up the machine, connect all the connectors, attach the legs, head, etc. and ensure that the pinball works properly. If anything is out of adjustment due to moving the machine, we can fix it in a few minutes as compared to having to come to your house later and charging you a trip fee and repair charge.
  4. If anything major is out of adjustment, we can order parts and repair. This hardly ever happens but it could and you and the machine are protected.

Delivery Options

We are currently set up for local delivery only within the Northern Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, and North-Eastern West Virginia area. If you are interested in shipping the pinball machine, we will contact a shipper. You will pay all crating and postage costs.

If you would like us to deliver and set up within 50 miles of Purcellville, the charge is $300; within 100 miles $475. The delivery charge includes delivery to a first floor or basement level if walk-out.

We will not sell you a game/deliver the game if the only entrance to your basement is an inside the house staircase. They are too narrow. Plus we have to ensure we don't mess up carpet or wood. It just isn't worth it.

You may also come and pick up the machine from our location.