Williams 1993 Star Trek The Next Generation - Mine

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Pinball

Finally had a chance to buy a Star Trek Next Gen for myself. After I sold my last very high end restoration, I regretted it. But was waiting until I found a nice one. My wholesaler put one up yesterday (5/30/2015) and this morning at 8:30 when I got up, I saw it and no one responded! I responded that I wanted it and it was delivered today.

I started to take pictures while putting the game together. Upon initial review, the cabinet was nice with just two scratches. The play field is in excellent condition. The sling plastics are broken. The Beta Quadrant ramp and the Alpha Quadrant ramp are broken on the front left. Flashers are not working. GI back box lights not working since the J120 connector is burnt and needs to be replaced.

The good news is I have an extra plastic set, plastic protectors, clear plastics, paper inserts, target decal sets, new enterprise (extra ship) and replacement Klingon ship. I will need to buy LEDs, possibly new ramps, ramp protectors, and Cliffy protectors.

* GI backbox lights out due to J120 connector burnt. - 6/12/2015 replaced J120 - fixed

* Flashers not working - check flasher fuse and board. - 6/12/2015 LED5 20 volt circuit out on driver board. Fuse F111 good. Replaced BR4 and C11 and all flashers now work.

* Replace plastics, clear plastics and plastic protectors. - all replaced

* Need Cliffy posts and Cliffy protectors. 6/15/2015 they arrived.

* Beta Quadrant ramp broken at front left. Need new ramp and decal. Maybe all new ramps. - All new ramps will be installed.

* LEDs - 6/14/2015 back box done. Controlled lights below playfield done. All done.

* Super Bands, rebuild flippers - done

* Re-plate phaser and ramps in black nickel. 6/15/2015 - sent to be re-plated; 6/17/2015 - received by the re-plater. 6 welds need to be fixed. More money...

* Subway protectors arrived 6/17/2015 to install.

* New Hallmark Klingon ship, Enterprise, and Rio Grande Shuttlecraft.

The pictures have been taken with the glass off to get a better picture.

This game comes with a manual.

item Click on the Internet Pinball Database logo to the left. This is a GREAT resource to find out about the machine, see pictures, see reviews and download the rule sheet if one exists for the game. This provides additional insights into playing the game.

Here are some videos. The first video will show the base play field before the plastic ramps or wire ramps are added back. This will show the work replacing plastics, decals, posts, rubbers, sleeves, LEDs, and cleaning the play field.

Finally, the completed STTNG.

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Here is a video comparing this almost completely finished STTNG to one I just got working 100% but have not restored.

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Although I still have a few ships to replace and the Color DMD to add, here is an almost final movie:

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Here is another movie with the plastic ramps added:

 

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Play field without ramps.

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As originally purchased.

 

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The game as originally received. I cleaned the cabinet. Although well maintained in a residence (as compared to the Demo Man I just got), it was still dirty and cleaned up nicely.

 

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Cabinet in nice condition.

 

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The first view of the cabinet.

 

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The front cabinet.

 

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Parts to add. When I opened the game, the black plug cover and two wing bolts were in the cabinet.

 

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The back bracket was missing...

 

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...because the back box bracket connector was missing since the wood was torn off.

 

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Looks like it went over to Europe or something.

 

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The plug plate was missing but then in the cabinet.

 

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The back sliders are missing.

 

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Replacement sliders.

 

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Sliders being installed.

 

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Sliders installed.

 

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Plug and cover installed.

 

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First view of the backbox.

 

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Play field first view.

 

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Back box boards. Batteries are not corroded!

 

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J120 (GI) Connector is burnt. Later we will see that the back box GI is not working.

 

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Back box GI not working.

 

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NIce play field.

 

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Upper play field.

 

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Middle play field.

 

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Lower play field.

 

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NIce cabinet.

 

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Small scratch on right side.

 

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Back box nice.

 

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Left cabinet. Note the white area on the "T" in "Star". I tried cleaning it and I think it started coming off. So I will keep trying.

 

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Left back box is nice.

 

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Front cabinet is nice.

 

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Phaser left side is nice.

 

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Phaser right side not so good. Maybe I will re-plate.

 

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Need Cliffy protector.

 

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Left side of the Beta Quadrant is broken off.

 

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Sling plastics broken.

 

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Spinner switch not working since the orange ground wire was disconnected. Once connected here, the spinner worked.

 

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Removed the back glass to clean and to fix the GI.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Clean.

 

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GI does not work.

 

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J120 connector burnt.

 

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J120 connector replaced.

 

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GI now works.

 

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Burnt connector.

 

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Now that the game is working 100%, I will start working on 100 different things at one time. The LED kit came with some LED strips. I put one in the back that was blue but it was reflecting and showing the LEDs on the playfield. I moved it behind the wood on the cabinet and then tried to move gorilla tape and pulled a wire out of the LED strip. So I can't get it back to blue. I soldered to green in the back area and will see how it looks. If I don't like it, I will remove it or pay for a new one. I emailed pinballbulbs.com and they suggested I solder to the other side of the strip. (What a novel idea.) The interesting thing is the trace for B is green and the trace for G is Blue. I soldered to G and it is nice and blue now.

I took the apron off. I want to take all the wire ramps off to send them to be re-plated in black nickel. They will look great. Later I will remove the metal posts and clean the playfield and shine the metal. I added the LED strip in the trough area. Hopefully it will look good or I will simply remove it. This connects to J116 on the driver board.

 

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You can see some of the dirt under the apron. I am waiting for the Cliffy protectors to come.

 

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Apron removed. LED strip in place.

 

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Apron. I will remove the wire on this and send in to be re-plated with the rest of the wire ramps.

 

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The entrance circular wire ramp is removed next. The screw at the front of the game in front of the catapult is removed as well as the two screws behind the captapult.

 

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The background lower wire ramp is the end of the circular ramp. Note that it is connected to the playfield with a hex bolt. To the right is a post. To the right of the post is the screw that holds the cross ramp to the playfield.

 

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This screw holds the circular entrance ramp to the cross ramp. Note that at the bottom is a nut and working up there is a washer, cross ramp, circular ramp, washer, flat to guide ball on cross ramp, post with rubber closer to the bottom, and screw.

 

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Lifting the entrance ramp out of the game.

 

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Entrance ramp gone.

 

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The cross ramp is connected to the playfield to the right of the post using a screw in a post.

 

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The cross ramp is also connected to a post on the right entrance of the Delta Quadrant ramp. I will put the washer and bolt back into the post for safe keeping.

 

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Lifting out the cross ramp.

 

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Cross ramp gone.

 

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This picture is upside down. This is the right ramp. I am showing the two wood screws holding the ramp in place.

 

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Screws removed (with a screw driver and magnet) and lifting the ramp out of the game.

 

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Right ramp gone.

 

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Better shot of right ramp gone.

 

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Left ramp held to the playfield with two wood screws. I also used a screw driver and magnet to get the screws out.

 

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About to remove the left ramp.

 

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Removing this ramp is a pain in the a$$. The plastic below needs to be removed.

 

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For clearance, the two wood screws holding the plastic in place need to be removed.

 

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Plastic and left ramp removed.

 

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More ramps gone.

 

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This plastic needs to be removed to get to the VUK assembly. I want to take the cannon wire ramps off and it is easier to get the whole assembly out of the game based on clearance to unscrew the small ramp.

 

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This bolt is a pain in the neck to remove.

 

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Assembly removed.

 

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Remove the wire ramp.

 

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Area cleared.

 

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Right side cannon ramp will be removed next.

 

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These plastics need to be taken out.

 

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Plastics removed.

 

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Since the two wire ramps have previously been removed, the screw I am pointing to is holding the plastic to the playfield.

 

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4 bolts need to be removed.

 

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The pain in the a$$ bolt to remove.

 

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Removing.

 

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Removed.

 

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The phaser will be sent to be re-plated as well. The 4 nuts and washers need to be removed.

 

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Phaser.

 

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Phaser gone.

 

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This will be the before shot to compare to the beautiful after shot later.

 

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Wire ramps and phaser about to be packed to be sent to be re-plated.

 

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Now to work on replacing the controlled lights. I will need to take the subway off. In order to get the subway off, the right VUK assembly (shown below) needs to be removed. The subway is rather clean. The most clean I have ever seen on a game. I ordered the subway protectors. I will do a bit of cleaning and install the subway protectors (since there is a slight crack in the plastic) as soon as I get the order.

 

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Close up. The bottom is clean. The inserts were very clean.

 

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The right VUK that will be removed.

 

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Removed.

 

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Now the subway can be taken off after 20 or so screws are removed. The subway is connected with 2 connectors shown below that will be marked and disconnected.

 

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The VUK.

 

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Some dirt that I will use a dremel to clean.

 

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Clean.

 

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The two connectors for the subway.

 

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The subway removed.

 

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The Cliffy protectors came today! (How easily I am excited.) So now it is time to clean under the apron and install the protector. As I stated, this game was in a home so not much dirt.

 

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Left side wood removed. See the dirt under the wood.

 

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Metal plate removed. See the firt under the plate.

 

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With the holes in the game, the Cliffy protector did not line up. The picture below shows it lining up but I will need to make new holes. I had an email conversation with Cliff and looked at his pictures. His pictures show the holes moved to the left about 1/2 inch and dimples in the wood where my holes are. He suggested that I could have an early game. IPDB states production started in November 1993 and my game is dated December 11, 1993 so it could be. This may also explain why the plate (shown 2 pictures below) was bent. Probably since the ramp was moved towards the back of the machine, the plate had to be bent for the ramp to fit. Hopefully by putting the ramp in the correct location when I get it back, it will work totally.

I sent the ramps and the phaser today (6/15/2015) to get re-plated in black nickel. I can't wait to get them back (so I can be excited again).

 

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Cliffy in proper location. I will need to move the screws.You can see the two screws on the right do not line up to holes.

 

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As stated above, this may explain why this was bent - to allow the ramp to fit.

 

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About to take this metal plate off...

 

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...to expose the dirt.

 

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Clean.

 

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Noticed that one of my targets was drooping. You can see the rivet is coming out of the switch so it can move left and right like a windshield wiper.

 

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I used a #6-32 5/8" bolt and washer to put back.

 

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This one was also having the same issue.

 

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The solution.

 

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Fixed.

 

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This explains why several of these were rolling around in the cabinet. I have two more to replace tonight. But my battery on my phone was dying so I needed to plug in to charge so updated the web site.

 

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As shown in the next few photos and other photos, it looks like there has been some water damage or leakage at some time or another. The lay field looks great but I am working hard to remove most of the evidence.

 

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This is the neutral zone hole. A Cliffy protector will be added. You can see the wear.

 

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This area will be cleaned and a Cliffy protector will be added. Note that the plastic on the left is broken and an extra post was added for no reason.

 

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The Cliffy protector added, shown from the bottom.

 

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Area cleaned. Cliffy protector makes the hole look crisp and clean. Note that all the black posts will be replaced by purple sleeves.

 

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New decals added.

 

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New decals added.

 

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New decals added.

 

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New decals added.

 

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New decals added.

 

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New decals added.

 

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New decals added.

 

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New decals added.

 

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Start replacing the plastics and LEDs. The old plastics in my hands. Note that the clear plastic is yellow. The new installed plastics look great. All bolts and screws areeither being replaced or polished with my dremel.

 

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Closer shot of the old plastics.

 

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About to replace the plastic on the left between the in and out lanes.

 

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Left sling replaced. Plastic protector added below plastic. Cannon replaced with dome. I still want to clean some of the water damage on the round metal part of the cannon base. Also includes new posts and rubbers.

 

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Right cannon before.

 

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Right and left flipper replaced with ultra bands. New slings, new cannons.

 

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Upper right flipper replaced with ultra band.

 

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New paper inserts on apron. The lower play field is starting to look great!

 

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About to clean the subway. I forgot to show cleaned photos and the subway protectors added. I thought I took photos but I guess I did not.

 

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Clean subway with protectors installed.

 

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About to take all the ramps and ships off.

 

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Mark all the connectors. Separate.

 

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Note that the two connectors from the Borg ship and one from the right ramp go out the back hole. I even added labels stating "Thru back". Before the right ramp can come off, the red dome has to come off.

 

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The flasher behind the red dome comes off next.

 

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Now the two screws in the back and the two screws on the flaps can come out.

 

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Here are the two screws in the flap.

 

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Right ramp removed.

 

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Borg ship will be removed next with 4 screws into back wood and two screws attached to left ramp.

 

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These screws on the Borg ship/ramp need to be loosened. You can see water damage here that will be replaced with the new ramp.

 

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Lifting out the Borg ship.

 

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Borg ship removed.

 

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Romulan ship comes off next with screw in the back left corner.

 

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Here is the screw in the back left corner holding the Romulan ship in place.

 

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All these connectors need to be labelled and separated. One is for one side of the lower opto switch so it will not be removed.

 

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Labelled.

 

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Separated.

 

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Both left ramps removed.

 

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Pretty.

 

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The parts all over the basement.

 

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More parts.

 

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More parts. Demolition Man will be worked on next.

 

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Starting to clean the play field under the ramps. The mylar on the shield insert is a bit scratched. This is the worst part of the play field and will not be seen once the ramps are reinstalled.

 

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The Klingon ship will be replaced later. I had one I purchased a few years ago that is a bit bigger. I just ordered a Hallmark ornament with custom LEDs. Once I get this new Klingon ship, I can get the game put together.

 

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New Klingon ship. It is cute but will be replaced. When I lifted the game, it came off the base and broke a plastic part (on the metal ship). I glued it back on and cannot be seen.

 

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The flex lights that came with the LED kit didn't work very well since when I bent them they seemed to loose connectivity. So luckily I have replacement LEDs. But won't need this when the new ship arrives.

 

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This plastic is always broken. Note that the posts are being replaced with purple sleeves.

 

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Plastic replaced with plastic protector and purple sleeves. The post on the left and washer have been polished and bolt replaced.

 

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The plastic on the right has been replaced. The three bumper caps will be replaced.

 

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Original shuttle craft.

 

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Rio Grande shuttle craft on the right.

 

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The speaker covered with a felt dot. I put glue on the two sides to add the posts.

 

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Gluing the ship to the two posts

 

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To take the pop bumpers off. The ring and rod assembly has to come off with the #8 nuts.

 

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Two of the #8 nuts are being pointed to.

 

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#8 nuts removed.

 

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Yellowed pop bumpers with ring and rod assembly.

 

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Ring and rod assembly remobved.

 

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Ring and rod assembly removed.

 

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The pop bumper parts to replace the existing pop bumpers.

 

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Removing the lights.

 

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Lights removed. Now the bases can be unscrewed.

 

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Amazing how much dirt accumulates on games.

 

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Clean.

 

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The biggest pain is soldering the new sockets to the existing wires. I did a few and covered them with electrical tape to be safe. I am about to solder where the paper towel is.

 

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New bumpers. The LEDs are too big for the caps to work. These LEDs were getting very hot and I replaced with my own LEDs.

 

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Ring and rod assembly (new) attached as well as my LEDs.

 

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Advance Mission plastic and protector added.

 

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This rubber needs to be twisted or the ball will get stuck in the left most lane.

 

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Time to move everything off the old ramps to the new ramps.

 

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Dirty hardware. I use a dremel to clean.

 

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Shiny hardware.

 

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First ramp installed.

 

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The right protector needed a few washers.

 

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Left ramp.

 

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The Delta ramp added as well as the Borg ship.

 

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Beta ramp added.

 

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The left flashers on the Borg ship did not work after I put it back together. I checked the lamps, wires and sockets. It turned out being the connector was not in tight for this side.

 

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The game with the 3 plastic ramps and the Borg ship.

 

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Plastic ramps and Borg ship.

 

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I received the lighted Klingon Bord of Prey with the right side broken off...

 

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...I bought Gorilla Glue. I put a dot of glue at the top right of the paper. I dipped the broken end into the glue and lined up and held together for 30 seconds. It is curing over night.

 

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Adding the left cannon ramp.

 

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I needed to move the bottom plastic to get to the screw.

 

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Installed... but realized the VUK behind the cannon VUK was loose. Also realized that it would be better to remove the back VUK to get the left wire ramp installed.

 

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Looks pretty but about to take apart again...

 

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I neded to move the triangle plastic next to the spinner and the plastic over the targets to remove the back VUK. This allows the left ramp to be installed properly.

 

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Left ramp installed.

 

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Top view of left ramp with screws to wood.

 

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VUK reinstalled and triangle plastic reinstalled.

 

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Now to reinstall this plastic.

 

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Front plastic reinstalled.

 

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Note that with the re-plated wire ramps and theplastic protector, I will use a dremel later to widen the hole so the ball fits. I will do the same on the right side but to a lesser degree.

 

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Clear plastic installed.

 

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Right cannon ramp installed. Reinstall wood screws next.

 

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Right ramp plastic completed.

 

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When the wire ramps are re-plated, they do not fit into the guide holes. I need to use a dremel to widen the holes.

 

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Right ramp installed.

 

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Apron wire installed. I also installed the cross ramp and the circle entry ramp but did not photograph them.

 

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Re-plated phaser, left side.

 

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Replated phaser, right side.

 

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Phaser installed.

 

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The flash on my light caused the white area on Data's face.

 

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Unlit plastic Enterprise to add.

 

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Note the screw hole to mount.

 

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This is the mounting bracket. the screw is about 3/8" long with a 1/4" hex head. It looks like a #6.

 

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The post on the right side of the ramp is where this will mount.

 

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Virginia Sales Tax

Virginia sales tax is currently 6.0%. Sales tax for in-state orders applies to machines and parts. It does not apply to the delivery or repair services.

Warranty

As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.

Reasons You Should Let Us Deliver Your Pinball (or Another Machine)

  1. We will NOT provide a warranty for the machine since we cannot be assured that a problem did not happen when you transported the machine. (As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.)
  2. We take responsibility for any damage that may occur during the delivery process.
  3. We professionally set up the machine, connect all the connectors, attach the legs, head, etc. and ensure that the pinball works properly. If anything is out of adjustment due to moving the machine, we can fix it in a few minutes as compared to having to come to your house later and charging you a trip fee and repair charge.
  4. If anything major is out of adjustment, we can order parts and repair. This hardly ever happens but it could and you and the machine are protected.

Delivery Options

We are currently set up for local delivery only within the Northern Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, and North-Eastern West Virginia area. If you are interested in shipping the pinball machine, we will contact a shipper. You will pay all crating and postage costs.

If you would like us to deliver and set up within 50 miles of Purcellville, the charge is $300; within 100 miles $475. The delivery charge includes delivery to a first floor or basement level if walk-out.

We will not sell you a game/deliver the game if the only entrance to your basement is an inside the house staircase. They are too narrow. Plus we have to ensure we don't mess up carpet or wood. It just isn't worth it.

You may also come and pick up the machine from our location.