2007 Stern Spider-Man - Restoration

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Pinball

One of my favorite games back in the house again. This game is HUO with very little plays. It is very clean. But I will still replace the rubbers and add Cliffy protectors.

This game came equipped with the following bling:

* Flipper Fidelity Speakers

* Flipper Fidelity LED Back Box insert

* Spider-Man plunger (not yet installed)

* Most LEDs except for the lights that dim.

I also bought some bling for my bling:

* Color DMD

* Back Alley Creations Houses and Train

* LED'ed Doc Ock, Green Goblin, and Sandman

* Target decals.

* Apron inserts

* Red Pincab leg protectors

* Speaker/display decal to replace plain black wood

* Cliffy protectors and posts

* New Magnet core

* Ultra bands for flippers

* Polyurethane rubbers

* Mirror blades with decals from Pingraffix.com

* Plastic protectors from pinbits.com

The pictures have been taken with the glass off to get a better picture.

This game comes with a manual.

item Click on the Internet Pinball Database logo to the left. This is a GREAT resource to find out about the machine, see pictures, see reviews and download the rule sheet if one exists for the game. This provides additional insights into playing the game.

 

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The first picture shows the full view with the subway car. This shows the full view with the houses.

 

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with glass on.

 

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With the glass on.

 

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I actually added a topper but did not feel like cutting around it.

 

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This is what it looked like when I got it. Nice but not restored to my liking.

 

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Color changing LEDs.

 

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Some of the parts.

 

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Black wood before decal added.

 

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The decal.

 

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I'll label all the parts and where they go.

 

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Left area.

 

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Right area.

 

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Speakers off.

 

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Wood before clear plastic removed.

 

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The decal will be placed in water with Dawn. It will be placed into position and all air bubbles removed.

 

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The decal nice and flat on the wood. Once it dries, I will use a hair dryer to blow around the holes to warm up the decal to adhere to the beveled areas. The decal is nicely flush with the top of the wood but overhangs a little on the bottom. I will dry to blow it to fold around the wood or use a straight edge razor to carefully cut off the bottom part.

 

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It is now a few hours later. I used a hair dryer to go around the bevel. After I took this picture, I smoothed out the decal under the bottom left side.

 

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The center hole complete.

 

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The left speaker hole complete.

 

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Decal complete. I will let it settle over night and may hit it with some more heat. But it looks good as it is. I know from seeing the one I did in 2014 a few weeks ago (when helping the customer add a ColorDMD) that the beveled area will come up a little. It is unnoticeable from the playing position but can be seen close up (like when changing out the DMD). So I have an idea of how this will change over time and I am satisfied.

 

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While waiting for the decal to dry, I replaced the the plunger.

 

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New plunger. The rod was a little longer so I needed a bigger barrel spring and an extra washer to go between the head and the barrel spring.

 

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The decal in place with the color DMD.

 

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Looks nice.

 

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Now the fun begins. I am going to take off all the ramps so I can get to the play field. I will change out the rubbers, add LEDs where not added, and add the Cliffy protectors. We will start with the left ramp.

 

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This #6-32 3/8" machine screw flat head with Phillips would not come out of the post. Below I tried to unscrew it but it would not budge. I wasted over 2 hours finally getting it out with a dremel. I was able to buy replacement "Flat Phillips with Nuts" Machine screws from Lowe's (#491323 Hilllman) for $1.24 a bag of 14 screws and 14 nuts. So in order to get this ramp out, which should have been as simple as sliding it forward, I had to loosen the plastic part of the ramp.

 

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Before I take anything off the play field, I label the connectors and take them apart under the play field. I use the book of numbers you can buy from Home Depot. I also label the hole in which the connector should go through. I am pointing at the switch that needs to be disconnected under the game. The plastic covering the hole in the play field will also need to be removed to get this ramp out (and then put it back in).

 

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This nut needs to be removed as well.

 

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This screw needs to be removed.

 

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Here is where I tried unsuccessfully to remove the screw from the post. I am using a screw driver and a clamp.

 

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The 4 screws holding this ramp in need to removed so I can initially lift the plastic to pull the wire ramp out.

 

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These are the lower two screws on the left loop ramp.

 

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This shows the connector that needs to be disconnected for this inner ramp within the left loop. I thought I would have to remove this ramp first but didn't need to do so.

 

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I thought I would have to remove Venom but I did not. But I kept the picture here for reference.

 

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I lifted the wire ramp as I lifted the plastic part of the ramp (left loop). I had to slightly bend the flat plastic below the ramp to get the post out of the hole. I then dremeled the screw out and put the post back onto the play field. So putting this back should be faster.

 

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Before I could actually get the wire ramp up, I needed to remove this plastic since the connector could not fit through the small notch to the right of the man's head.

 

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Before the loop plastic can be removed, I need to loosen this inner ramp. Two screws are behind Venom.

 

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The bottom two screws need to also be removed from this inner ramp.

 

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This screw at the end also needs to be removed.

 

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Now this ramp can be removed. I call this the left loop.

 

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And this ramp can be removed. I call this the inner ramp since it is inside of the left loop.

 

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Now I will work on the right side. The wire ramp needs to be removed. This nut at the bottom needs to come off.

 

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This screw needs to come off.

 

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Doc Ock's VUK is connected to the wire ramp here and needs to be taken out.

 

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As I said, I already labeled and disconnected all the connectors. But this wire is tied to the post which needs to be removed.

 

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Now the right wire ramp can be removed.

 

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This plastic needs to come off. I am showing the plastic to the left and below of the lower jet bumper (which is at the left in this picture). This is basically the start of adding the Doc Ock Cliffy protector.

 

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The clear plastic on the left side of Doc Ock needs to come out. This clear plastic should not go back on until after the right plastic loop ramp is re-installed.

 

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The metal guides and deflector flap need to be removed. There are nuts under the play field that need to come out with their washer. (NOTE: When you put the nuts back on, DO NOT over-tighten or you will pop the rivet holding the post that goes below the play field to the metal guide.)

 

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There are a few 1/4" nuts that need to be removed. This one will need the red flasher cover removed to get the nut driver to fit.

 

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This outside metal guide is being removed.

 

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This metal guide now needs to be removed. The nut under the play field and the screw I am pointing to need to come out.

 

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This inner guide with the opto switch needs to come out. The opto wire has a label that needs to be folded to fit though the hole.

 

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The deflector needs to come off. The lower screw is below the wire. I needed to use a flat head to get it out.

 

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I should have removed Doc Ock here. I did it later. The red flasher cover needs to come off to get to the screw I showed above.

 

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Flasher covered removed.

 

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Now the nut driver can reach.

 

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Note that the VUK cannot come out until I remove Doc Ock. I am working on the deflector with a flat head screw driver due to the wire post in the way.

 

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Deflector removed.

 

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Remove Doc Ock with the four screws using a 3/16" nut driver.

 

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Notice Doc Ock removed as well as the VUK. Here is the Cliffy protector before the protection (plastic) removed.

 

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Ciffy protector aligned and in place. I'll come back to adding the parts in later.

 

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Now I need to remove Sandman and his VUK.

 

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We will remove this right plastic loop ramp. Remove the screw on the right of the entrance.

 

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Remove this screw to the left of the ramp entrance.

 

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This screw in the back needs to be removed. The yellow flasher is connected with a connector through the back of the play field.

 

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Remove this screw.

 

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The lower part of the ramp is snug with the plastic to the left. I had to play with it to get it to come out.

 

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Right plastic loop ramp removed. All plastic ramps will be cleaned before being reinstalled.

 

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Right ramp removed.

 

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Remove the clear plastic over the front of the Sandman. This requires the two screws up front and one in the back left to be removed.

 

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Clear plastic removed.

 

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This plastic behind the VUK needs to be removed. Note that the plastic is below the metal for the VUK to the right of the VUK from this view and above the W.

 

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The right side of the VUK needs to be removed. Note that there is a plastic wire holder there. Mine was holding no wires. I'll have to check it later.

 

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About to use the 3/16" nut driver to remove Sandman.

 

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Sandman removed. The VUK is held with 3 screws. The left screw is longer and was removed before to get the plastic off.

 

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Everything is off the play field.

 

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Now the deflector and metal guides need to be removed to get the Sandman Cliffy protector in place. (This is why it will be so great if games could come with Cliffy protectors. I pre-ordered a Houdini and am trying to get them to add protection to the game including Cliffy protectors so I can finally get a NIB game with no work to protect it.)

 

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Most of the metal guides except for the one in back simply have screws on the play field. Deflector removed and screw removed from back metal guide.

 

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With all the metal guides slightly loosened and moved, I can now fit the Cliffy protector in place. This picture shows me holding the Cliffy protector.

 

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Cliffy protector installed. Now I can reinstall all the metal guides.

 

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Cliffy protector installed and metal guides back in place.

 

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This is the holding cell for all the parts taken off the game.

 

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I added the target decals from pinballdecals.com.

 

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Decals.

 

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I decided to use all super band rubbers on this game. I ordered blue rubbers for the lanes and jet bumper area and red rubbers for the rest of the game. I ordered 7/16" rubbers. I did not specify outer diameter (vs inner diameter) so I got the wrong size. I have to wait until the correct parts arrive to finish.

 

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The manual says 3/16" inner diameter rings for the top of the lane guides. Maybe regular rubbers would squeeze on. But these super bands do not and I do not want to break the guide. So I ordered 5/16" inner diameter rings. I just needed two more to finish this up. Look at the triangle between the left and bottom jet bumper (from the player view point).

 

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I removed the triangle plastic between the left and bottom jet bumper and added the blue super band.

 

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The triangle plastic added back above the blue super band.

 

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Showing the blue rings that will be added once I get them all.

 

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The blue rings added to the lane guide between W and E and E and B. There is actually a 3/4" rubber on the bottom left of the guide to the right of the B lane. The guide to the left of W has not been done yet due to waiting for two 5/16" rings. There are also four 7/16" OD rubbers that need to change to blue. I cannot finish the game until they come in.

 

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This game used 5 rubber rings, smaller rings for the lane guides, and 14 post rubbers. There is a ring that goes above the left sling as shown. The slings take two 2.5" rubbers. I was accidentally sent just one so need another before much more can get done.

 

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The magnet core always gets mushroomed at the top. I will remove the magnet core, replace with a new one, and add a Cliffy protector so hopefully this will never happen again. This large nut needs to be removed to unscrew the magnet core.

 

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I screw the old magnet core through the top. Since it is mushroomed, I do not want to pull it under the play field and mess up the wood around the magnet core circle.

 

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This is the old one. I was trying to show the mushrooming at the top.

 

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New magnet core screwed in though the top. I left it up a little....

 

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...so I can place the Cliffy protector around the magnet core and line it up perfectly.

 

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Then I continue to lower the magnet core until it is flush with the Cliffy protector. The large nut is then replaced below the play field.

 

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Now I am going to work on the trough protection. When I first saw this, I thought I received a bent protector. But then I realized it was new and improved. I thought it was a guide to line up against the side of the wood. But that did not work. I went to sleep and realized in the middle of the night that it was a fin or tooth to go into the wood to anchor the protector in place so it does not move.

 

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Another view of the new improved version.

 

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Comparison with the old version.

 

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The above guide goes below this wood to the right of the plunger. The two screws that hold in the level have to be loosened since they go to the play field.

 

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Notice that I loosened the screw to the right of the photo. But there is also a screw under the plunger coil assembly. This needs to be removed.

 

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I was only going to remove the plunger part of the assembly. But the right most screw could not be reached until I removed the 4 screws to remove the coil assembly and lower the plunger. Also showing the small side of the spring goes on first.

 

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You can now see the lower screw that needs to be loosened.

 

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Lower screw loosened. The protector with the fin/tooth I showed above goes in with the hole around this lower screw. You will see that the protector has to be pulled as close to the player as possible to allow clearance for the lower level screw to go into the play field from the top.

 

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This shows the protector placed where the hole allows lower screw to enter.

 

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I will lift up the black wood, line up the top (fin/tooth) with the black line of the plunger track, and pull the protector as close to the player to provide clearance for the lower level screw to go into the play field from the top (shown towards the right of the photo). You can see the lower level screw and how close it is to the top of the protector.

 

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Pulling the protector to the player to line it up.

 

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Note how the protector lines up and follows the black line.

 

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The protector sticks out a tiny bit. Hopefully it will not get in the way of the mirror blade or I'll have to re-align.

 

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Poking a hole in the wood to add another screw.

 

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Now we will add the protector on the trough side.

 

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Apron will be removed now. I will clean the wood since it is always dirty. This game is home use only so it was dirty but not much.

 

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Remove trough cover.

 

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Cliffy protector will go under the wood. So I have to loosen the screws for the wood. But it may be glued so it was very hard to lift. So I had to slide it in below.

 

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Loosen these two screws for the wood.

 

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Screws loosened.

 

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Usually the wood guide just lifts up. This one did not. I slid the protector underneath.

 

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I lined up the protector and added back the cover and screws.

 

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Note how both protectors follow the black lines.

 

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Trough protection totally in place.

 

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I added back the right guide into the Doc Ock hole with the opto switch. I ensured the wire went though and connected to the opto board.

 

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I added back the left side guide of the right loop.

 

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Note that the right opto goes to J2. I labeled the hole with "J2" and the board with "2."

 

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Two washers and nuts will be added.

 

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Washers and nuts added.

 

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One of the lane guides also has a lower post that goes through the wood and needs to have the washer and nut added.

 

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Note that the screw is in a wood cavity that is hard to add a washer. I used a clamp to put the washer in place.

 

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Then I can add the nut.

 

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The left Doc Ock guide with the opto switch goes in next.

 

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This opto is J1 and you will see where I labeled the hole and the connector on the board. The nut will also be added to the bolt to the right of my thumb and J1 writing.

 

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Washer and nut added.

 

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VUK in place.

 

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The plastic on the back right can now be replaced.

 

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Plastic on right replaced.

 

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I added the flasher red cover after I screwed in the screw. I put the clear plastic on the play field but plastic will come off....

 

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This is the new Doc Ock with lighted arms.

 

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The mounting plate comes off the old one on the left and placed on the new one on the right.

 

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New Doc Ock in place. The wire should have been placed inside the two movable posts that move Doc Ock up and down. So I had to remove him and move the wire.

 

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The red LEDs on Doc Ock are connected to the red spot light that shines on Doc Ock. This is a controlled light that is on all the time in attract mode and on during play at various times. The black wire from Doc Ock's LEDs go into the red connector that goes to the 2 pin connector that goes between the original connectors.

 

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The black wire is tied to the existing wires.

 

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Doc Ock Lit.

 

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Originally, I incorrectly had the wire going outside of the left lifter for Doc Ock. I had to take him off and put the wire inside as shown above so it worked much smoother. Note that I attached the wire to the post near the jet bumper with a tie. I had to ensure enough slack for when Doc Ock was up and when he was down. This is down.

 

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This is up.

 

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Doc Ock lit with this spot light also lit.

 

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Adding plastic protector above top right flipper.

 

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Red flipper super bands added.

 

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Red flipper super band added at top right flipper.

 

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Now that the correct rubbers have come in, I can replace the black with blue in this top area.

 

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Leftmost lane guide will be changed to LED and blue rubbers as well as the two posts directly below.

 

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These two posts will also be replaced with blue.

 

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Blue rubbers.

 

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With the plastic back on.

 

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All changed to blue and all LEDs.

 

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Another view.

 

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Sling and lane guide will be changed to red with plastic protectors.

 

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Nice.

 

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Black center post.

 

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Red center post.

 

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Better view of red center post.

 

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Left sling area before.

 

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Left sling area after.

 

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Before.

 

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After.

 

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Now I start to add back all the ramps. I started putting on the right loop ramp but remembered I needed to get this plastic under it. I am adding plastic protectors so sometimes I have to disconnect the post and have it go through the plastic and the plastic protector. This picture shows the plastic to the left of the W lane guide.

 

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This plastic to the left of the jet bumpers and above the Sandman hole has been added. The screw behind the post has not yet been installed since the Sandman VUK will connect to this.

 

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Now the right plastic loop ramp can be installed.

 

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The clear plastic to the left of Doc Ock that goes over the right plastic loop ramp can be reinstalled.

 

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These are the two screws the attach the clear plastic.

 

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Sandman gets replaced with a lit Sandman.

 

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New lit Sandman installed. I ensured the wire can move freely as he goes up and down.

 

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Testing Sandman in the raised position.

 

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Sandman and Doc Ock lit.

 

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The VUK begind Sandman can be reinstalled. Three screws are reconnected. I am showing the one I left off before.

 

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I re-attached the right side. Later, I will move the wire guide 90 degrees to actualy hold a hire.

 

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The clear plastic in front of Sandman and a protector underneath have been added back in.

 

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Wen I put this back, I am showing where the plastic has to go under the right clear loop ramp.

 

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Right wire ramp reinstalled.

 

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Doc Ock VUK re-attached. Note that the wire ramp connects outside of the VUK.

 

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The wire that was attached to a post is now guided through the wire guide.

 

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Better picture of the wire guide.

 

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Left clear loop ramp goes in next. But it is easier to take out the front post first.

 

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Left clear loop ramp is held up as I screw back the post.

 

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The inside Venom ramp is also added back.

 

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I used a glue gun to glue the 4 LEDs into the spot lights. This is red for Dock Ock.

 

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Green for Green Goblin.

 

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Yellow for Sandman and blue for Venom.

 

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Left clear plastic ramps re-installed,

 

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Left wire ramp re-installed with new lit Green Goblin. I put his wire down between the targets and ensured he moved freely. The plastic that the switch wire has to go below was also replaced.

 

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The game back together.

 

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Green Goblin lit.

 

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Complete except for mirror blades and Back Alley Creations houses and train.

 

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I realized I did not replace the white light with an LED below the movable targets.

 

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The Super Hero light was an LED but a lame LED. I like my white lights to look white using Cool white LEDs.

 

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Mirror blades installed. I needed to run to the store to buy double sided tape to keep the blades against the wood better.

 

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The train will be added against the right side.

 

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The screw to the left of the left raised screw and where my finger is pointing needs to be replaced with the post as a holder of the lower part of the train.

 

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Post replaced.

 

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The spot light needs to have a velcro plate added and a new longer screw with an extra spacer. My spot light need to switch places with the screw about an inch to the left.

 

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Train installed. Note that the sppot light was moved slightly to the left.

 

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Now the houses get added.

 

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Second structure.

 

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This screw needs a post to place the third building.

 

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Post installed.

 

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Third building. This gets awfully close to the glass track.

 

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Fourth building behind Green Goblin.

 

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Fifth building added.

 

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Complete with train on the right.

Virginia Sales Tax

Virginia sales tax is currently 6.0%. Sales tax for in-state orders applies to machines and parts. It does not apply to the delivery or repair services.

Warranty

As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.

Reasons You Should Let Us Deliver Your Pinball (or Another Machine)

  1. We will NOT provide a warranty for the machine since we cannot be assured that a problem did not happen when you transported the machine. (As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.)
  2. We take responsibility for any damage that may occur during the delivery process.
  3. We professionally set up the machine, connect all the connectors, attach the legs, head, etc. and ensure that the pinball works properly. If anything is out of adjustment due to moving the machine, we can fix it in a few minutes as compared to having to come to your house later and charging you a trip fee and repair charge.
  4. If anything major is out of adjustment, we can order parts and repair. This hardly ever happens but it could and you and the machine are protected.

Delivery Options

We are currently set up for local delivery only within the Northern Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, and North-Eastern West Virginia area. If you are interested in shipping the pinball machine, we will contact a shipper. You will pay all crating and postage costs.

If you would like us to deliver and set up within 50 miles of Purcellville, the charge is $300; within 100 miles $475. The delivery charge includes delivery to a first floor or basement level if walk-out.

We will not sell you a game/deliver the game if the only entrance to your basement is an inside the house staircase. They are too narrow. Plus we have to ensure we don't mess up carpet or wood. It just isn't worth it.

You may also come and pick up the machine from our location.