1998 Williams Monster Bash - Not Available

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Beautifully restored Monster Bash. The pictures below show the restoration. This game includes color DMD, mirror blades, new legs, professionally repainted cabinet leg areas as shown below, play field area above Dracula track professionally repainted, LEDs, new posts, rubbers, bumper assemblies, decals and apron inserts, Cliffy protectors, colored sleeves, and new flippers.

I restored this exact game in 2007. A customer came over to buy a pinball. They wanted this game. I sold it but told him that if he ever wanted to sell it, I would like to buy it back. About 4 months ago, he called with an issue (January 2016). I told him that the batteries needed to be changed. He changed them. We reset the settings and the game worked. He commented that his children are in college and the game isn't being used. I reminded him that I would like to buy it back if he doesn't want it. It took him a few months to decide, but he decided to sell it back to me.

This is a favorite game of mine. As the pictures show, the biggest issue with this game is the cabinet decal around the legs. I found an artist (in Hamilton, VA which is the town next door) that can fix it up and repaint without having to do a new decal. The other issue was the Dracula track. I added a Dracula bracket. I had to carefully sand the back of the track down so the ball would not hit the back of the track years ago since the wood was beat up. He will repaint that area as well. He is also touching up the rest of the cabinet.

Otherwise the game is in really nice condition. It was hardly used. It is a little dirty. I'll buy target decals, plastic protectors, and some other items. I previously added a few LEDs. I will now do the whole game in LEDs. At least I know the person who previously restored it and he did a good job :) The Cliffy protector I added back then was the thicker version. I ordered a new Cliffy protector as well as a protector for the ball eject area. I ordered a ColorDMD and have touched up some of the black paint myself.

Once the main picture has the white background, you will know I am done with the restoration.

Here is a video of the decal repainting (there is no sound).

The pictures have been taken with the glass off to get a better picture.

This game comes with a manual.

item Click on the Internet Pinball Database logo to the left. This is a GREAT resource to find out about the machine, see pictures, see reviews and download the rule sheet if one exists for the game. This provides additional insights into playing the game.

 

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Back box wood repainted black. Color DMD. LED lights.

 

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Mirror blades added after the glamour shots.

 

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Mirror blades.

 

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As originally purchased.

 

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Here is the back box with LEDs.

 

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I cleaned the visible parts of the play field. But this is original as re-purchased.

 

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The left side legs are the biggest problem.

 

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The back side of the track was sanded a little to allow the ball to roll over the track rather than bang into the back of the track.

 

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The game at the customer's house before I moved it.

 

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The game arrives at my basement door.

 

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About to enter.

 

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Monster Bash is in the house!

 

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There is corrosion on the battery holder but not on the board. I have ordered a replacement battery holder.

 

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Dirty

 

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Clean

 

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Replacing the lights in the back box. It was easier to open than to try to pull out the sockets.

 

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This picture shows the credit dot since I just replaced the batteries and did not yet set the date.

 

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I spoke to an artist who will fix up my leg area. I am confident anything he does will be a vast improvement over what is currently there. I refuse to re-decal the game. Above is the front right.

 

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Front right

 

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Front right

 

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Front left

 

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Front left

 

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Front left

 

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Front left

 

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Front left

 

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Front left

 

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Front right

 

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Front right

 

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Front right

 

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Back left

 

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Back left

 

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Back right

 

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Back right

 

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Back Right

 

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This starts the pictures of taking off the ramps.

 

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I will take off all the ramps but will start with the right ramp. I need to remove the right ramp so the artist can repaint the area above the Dracula track. In order to remove ramps, the Mummy has to be removed first.

 

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The wires for the Mummy (flasher and coil) go through the back. You can also see the two nuts that will later need to be removed to totally remove the assembly from the play field.

 

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Before I remove ramps, I go under the play field and label EVERY connector that goes through the play field wood. All will be disconnected but may not need to be. In most cases, most will need to be disconnected. Sometimes I have to cut off the tyvek ties. I take pictures as above. But in the end, after all the wires are reconnected and the game is tested and works 100%, I simply lift the play field and add tyvek ties back every place that looks appropriate.

Note that I label both sides of the connector (in this example "39") AND the hole in which the connector goes through.

 

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Marking the connectors that go through the back for the Mummy. Also be aware that some connectors (or their wires) attach to the plastic loops. I will sometimes, if appropriate, put the number on the loop rather than the hole is they are very close.

 

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More labeling of connectors and holes.

 

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I am pointing out that this tyvek tie will need to be cut.

 

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So I cut it.

 

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A large tyvek tie needed to be cut at the bottom.

 

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I open the door to unscrew the two 1/4" bolts for the yellow/orange plastic.

 

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The plastic removed.

 

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These two nuts need to be removed.

 

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Now I can lift up the Mummy and move him off the play field.

 

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Mummy-less.

 

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The above picture is showing that the wire to the switch on the right ramp is is going around the top of the back left pop bumper and behind and around the plastic on the right of the Frankenstein entrance with the purple dome and down below the play field near the front of the Frankenstein ramp.

 

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This clear plastic covers the ramp but is secured by the solid metal Frankenstein ramp nut and washer (which you can see behind the clear post). So this needs to be removed before the right ramp is removed.

 

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Use green nut driver to remove the nut and washer for this clear plastic.

 

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Plastic removed.

 

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Showing close up to remember to place it back correctly.

 

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This is just a picture of the switch wires running above the left top pop bumper to the purple dome plastic.

 

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This plastic is connected to a post that is securing the ramp to the play field. Not only do the nut and washer need to be removed, but the post and bottom washer need to be removed as well.

 

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The great thing is, when I take it apart, if I do not do it in the order I should have (learning), I can move the photos in the correct order. This will help you and it will help me in the future. I now remove the 1/4" post with a red (from Home Depot color coded nut drivers 1/4") nut driver. Be careful not to scratch the coffin decal. I used my other hand (when not taking a staged photo) to gently move the coffin out of the way.

I stage these photos in sometimes awkward hand positions to show you the color of the nut driver.

 

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These two nuts secure the right ramp to the play field.

 

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Remove the nuts.

 

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The right ramp is secured to one of the lane guides. Sometimes when I try to remove a nut, the entire bolt comes with it. I simply take it all out and disconnect later and put the bolt back in place.

 

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Remove the nut and washer to the right sling. (Remember that my pictures have been placed in the order I should have moved things, so above I show that the post was removed behind the coffin, but the picture above still has it there. Just imagine that it is already gone.)

 

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The wire ramp connects to the play field with a 1/4" wood screw in shadow in this photo.

 

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Using my magnetic 1/4" nut driver remover to unscrew the screw.

 

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Removing the plastic and pop bumper cover to the bottom bumper.

 

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Also need to remove the plastic over the top left pop bumper. This plastic attaches to the right purple dome plastic.

 

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Finally removed the right ramp.

 

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Now it is easier to remove the plastic over the scoop. The purple dome plastic stays until the Frankenstein ramp is removed since it is easier to remove it a little later.

 

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I guess I lifted this a little higher and took another picture.

 

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Right ramp removed.

 

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Now we will remove the Frankenstein ramp. This is a royal pain in the a$$. The Frankenstein bed will need to be loosened. But I do not want to totally remove since it is attached to the lever that moved it.

I turn on the game and go into test mode. I go to Frankenstein test. I lower the targets and stand Frank up. I turn off the game and can see the left screw holding down the flap. This is the only screw on top. there is a bolt underneath that also needs to come off.

 

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Lift up the play field. There are two bolts and nuts on the right side of the Frankenstein ramp. The above picture shows a green nut driver removing the nut on the left.

 

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The stand for Frankenstein is held down by 2 nuts on the left and the right. They have to be removed to loosen up Frankenstein. This way the ramp will be able to be wiggled out.

 

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I did not take pictures of removing the two 1/4" posts under this plastic that I removed to loosen Frankenstein. There are also two nuts on the right side that I removed to move Frankenstein. out of the way. When I tightened these 2 posts on the left and 2 nuts on the right, I ensured that I lined up the pivot point correctly just in case I turn on the power and he moves so he moves correctly. THIS IS IMPORTANT!

 

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Obviously the ramp behind Frankenstein that you cannot see from this angle has been removed.

 

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View that you can see the ramp is gone.

 

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The left ramp has two bolts under the play field that need to be removed.

 

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The two nuts at the left will be removed.

 

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Nuts removed.

 

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This wire controls the switch on the left tamp.

 

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This 1/4" nut and washer are removed.

 

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This nut would have been removed if it were not missing.

 

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Sling nut removed.

 

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Ramp removed.

 

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Long ramp...

 

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All ramps removed.

 

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There is some mylar in the pop bumper area.

 

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I added the Cliffy protector in 2007. But is coming up and it is thicker than he makes today. I bought a new one.

 

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The ramps removed and placed on another game. Note the list of steps that I translated to this web page. Note that the writings along the sides of the list were the corrections to change to order.

 

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I was going to replace the controlled lights with LEDs. I looked under the play field and noticed that the Dracula motor was in the way. Dracula needs to be removed. The Dracula bracket needs to be removed and the plastics around the coffin need to be removed.

 

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I guess he didn't like being moved from his perch.

 

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A Dracula-less bracket. Look closely at the area where the two bolts were removed. There are plastic rings around them. Take them off now so you don't lose them.

 

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The coffin and the plastics around it will be removed.

 

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The coffin and plastic removed. The metal guide needs to be removed. I thought it needed a nut removed under the play field but it just needed to 1/4" bolts removed off the top of the play field.

 

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This plastic will be removed so the metal guide can be removed.

 

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Removing plastic. The switch will just sit there.

 

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The Dracula bracket needs to be removed. The Dracula will be moved below the play field through this larger hole.

 

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Disconnect the wires for the Dracula switch when you hit him.

 

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The motor wires will be disconnected next.

 

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The motor is connected to this board.

 

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The motor is connected with two nuts and bolts. We will remove them.

 

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The motor is detached and the arm is moved to bring the Dracula assembly through.

 

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The motor and arm being removed.

 

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This board will be labeled and removed next.

 

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Note that I labeled the board with a 10 (at the 10 o'clock position) and followed it onto the lamp board and play field.

 

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I labeled this connector and disconnected it.

 

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Remove the 4 nuts.

 

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Remove the opto board and base.

 

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Now I can spend the next few hours replacing LEDs.

 

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All LEDs added. I finally learned how to photograph this. I use the burst mode to take 10 photos in a "burst". I then choose the one where they are all lit and delete the other 9.

 

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Flashers added.

 

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Put the opto board back.

 

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Connect the opto connectors.

 

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Board connected.

 

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Here are those rings I mentioned before when I took Dracula off this base. These need to go back on after the motor is connected.

 

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This shows the rings in the correct location. But don't really put them on now. Put them on when the motor is connected.

 

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Dracula area was brought through the larger hole at the right and put in place.

 

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Reattach the nuts.

 

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Reconnect the motor connector to the board.

 

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Reconnect the Dracula switch.

 

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Dracula base back in place.

 

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Now put the rings back in place.

 

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Dracula attached. Note he is position 5.

 

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I am pressing his legs and the D switch is closed.

 

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I am much smarter than 9 years ago when I initially worked on this. I used my analysis skills and realized if I added two washers to the left bolt before I put the Dracula bracket back on, it would force the right bolt to pull down which is the back of the Dracula bracket so that the play field is now level!

 

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Reattaching the Dracula bracket.

 

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Dracula bracket attached.

 

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The play field is level between the front and back of the Dracula track.

 

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Level.

 

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The front two buttons with LEDs. I needed to find LEDs that were narrow to fit into the button.

 

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Changing flipper buttons. Old.

 

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New.

 

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Old. I guess I did not take a picture of the new button. Imagine a clean, shiny new yellow button here.

 

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About to remove apron. Already removed bolts into front.

 

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Apron removed and dirty.

 

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After.

 

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The clear plastic on the right is thicker but is missing the art work. Later you will see I cleaned the old thinner piece and cut it off and added the artwork section.

 

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Decals.

 

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Metal guide added back.

 

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Plastics and protectors added.

 

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Clear plastic with old artwork added back for the electric bolts.

 

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Looking nice. Note the purple Cliffy post sleeves.

 

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I cleaned the area under the apron and will clean the area below these metal plates.

 

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Left side.

 

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July 5, 2016 was supposed to be get both sling areas done and other stuff. I worked on the right sling and then got distracted.

 

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I heard something fall. I lifted up the play field and noticed that the bolt screw receptor where my index finger is pointing fell out. Luckily it fell onto the wires and shown with my middle finger. It did not fall onto the opto board and short anything. Also, luckily, I had the game off.

 

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This is the piece that fell off the game.

 

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To put it back, I line up the holes for the blades that go into the wood and push in a little...

 

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... and I use a 1/4" nut drive to center around the receptor and hammer it in. Since it is centered, it goes in flush.

 

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Every thing cleaned, plastic protectors, new LEDs, new rubbers.

 

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This was supposed to be the "before" picture to work on the left sling but I am easily distracted.

 

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I realized that the lights were not changed and the flasher was not fitting in. This meant that the metal tips in the socket needed to be bent apart so the flasher bash could fit. So I needed to remove the back. So I decided to clean it as well. This detaches by unscrewing 4 1/4" hex bolts in the very back.

 

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The back. LEDs added on the right. The flasher socket with the problem between my thumb and index finger. Burnt bulbs on the left.

 

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Plastic removed to replace this flasher as well.

 

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This was the plastic that was removed.

 

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While I have the back off, I might as well clean this plastic, clean the play field beneath and change the lights.

 

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Back in place.

 

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Might as well also clean this back plastic, play field and change lights too.

 

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Done.

 

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Back reinstalled and lit.

 

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Will now work on the lane guides in the back right.

 

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Removed right plastic. Cleaned play field. Added an orange LED.

 

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All lane guides replaced and plastic reinstalled.

 

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Front right.

 

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Front right.

 

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Front right.

 

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Back right.

 

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Back left.

 

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Front left.

 

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Front left.

 

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Front left.

 

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Above is the first picture of the back right leg with the bad decal, missing decal, exposed wood, and bubbling decal.

 

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Although still a work in progress, here is the current view of the back right leg. I think it looks great. The artist wants perfection. I want greatness (which is a couple of notches down from perfection) at a lower cost :).

 

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Cleaning the area around the left sling. New rubbers, posts, LEDs, plastic protectors and cleaned plastics.

 

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Reinstalled.

 

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Will now work on the Creature plastic and area.

 

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The plastic protector and a new green shield.

 

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Old shield.

 

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The area around the green shield. Note the dirt on the blue rubber and the dirt around the inside of the shield wood.

 

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Area cleaned with a q-tip and a rag. Note nice shiny blue rubber.

 

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Mostly reinstalled.

 

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Lights and purple posts. Note green Cliffy sleeve.

 

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Reinstalled.

 

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As I said, when I received this game there was corrosion on the battery holder but not on the board. I finally changed out the battery holder. This is the old one.

 

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The blue on the metal tabs below the batteries is the corrosion.

 

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The blue on the negative posts is also corrosion.

 

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New battery holder. No Corrosion.

 

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The back right complete with some varnish.

 

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The first pass of the front left. Since the front left is the same as the back right.

 

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Closer up in the light shows where the area needs to be touched up.

 

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This is the first pass of the front left.

 

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Repainted coin door. First pass.

 

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Anything on the cabinet black, I have repainted.

 

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Front left side now done except varnish. Front left front still needs to have second coat of paint.

 

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My aspirational picture that I will work on the bumpers next.

 

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Taking off bumper caps.

 

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Cutting out the lamp sockets.

 

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You can see the lower socket has been cut out.

 

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One bumper off.

 

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All bumpers off. See the dirt.

 

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White rubber removed as well as the broken lamp inside the rubber. I will replace with a flat LED.

 

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Mostly clean.

 

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New bumpers. I had one lamp socket with 9" leads and the rest with 4" leads. I was able to use one 4" lead since I could get to the wires to connect. The other one I could not. I ordered 36 new lamp sockets with 12" leads.

 

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Back left; first coat.

 

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Front right; done but will still varnish later.

 

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The new lamp sockets with the 12" leads arrived. The bumpers are complete. The other two bumper caps will not go back on until the clear plastics are added after the ramps.

 

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I will replace the Cliffy protector. Note that these are not as thin as the new ones. Note that the inside of the scoop is dirty.

 

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This VUK will be removed. But the wires to the coil are not on a connector.

 

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The inside after I dremeled it.

 

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The old Cliffy protector removed.

 

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New thin Cliffy protector.

 

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Reinstalled.

 

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Front. The right side still needs the second coat.

 

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Right side. The front still needs a second coat.

 

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Left side complete. Note that the back box also has some green added as a base to touch up the cabinet.

 

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Color DMD added.

 

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Play field repainting on top of Dracula track complete.

 

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Right front eg complete.

 

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Here are the steps to put the ramps back on:

· Put left ramp back on.
· Lower targets and stand frank up
· Put Frankenstein Ramp back on. Read the picture that says THIS IS IMPORTANT. Ensure frank is removed and then pivot back on correctly.
· Ramp has screw in top bolt on bottom – make sure wire from right ramp goes under this ramp
· Put left plastic and purple ball back
· Scoop plastic (bottom pop bumper)
· Right ramp
· Put right plastic purple ball back (left pop bumper) – make sure wire for switch is under it
· Put top right plastic behind coffin back on.
· Clear plastic at top left of ramp
· Mummy
· plastic

 

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Left ramp on.

 

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Frank ramp on.

 

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Scoop plastic on.

 

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All ramps and plastics on.

 

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Apron inserts on and colorful.

 

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Virginia Sales Tax

Virginia sales tax is currently 6.0%. Sales tax for in-state orders applies to machines and parts. It does not apply to the delivery or repair services.

Warranty

As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.

Reasons You Should Let Us Deliver Your Pinball (or Another Machine)

  1. We will NOT provide a warranty for the machine since we cannot be assured that a problem did not happen when you transported the machine. (As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.)
  2. We take responsibility for any damage that may occur during the delivery process.
  3. We professionally set up the machine, connect all the connectors, attach the legs, head, etc. and ensure that the pinball works properly. If anything is out of adjustment due to moving the machine, we can fix it in a few minutes as compared to having to come to your house later and charging you a trip fee and repair charge.
  4. If anything major is out of adjustment, we can order parts and repair. This hardly ever happens but it could and you and the machine are protected.

Delivery Options

We are currently set up for local delivery only within the Northern Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, and North-Eastern West Virginia area. If you are interested in shipping the pinball machine, we will contact a shipper. You will pay all crating and postage costs.

If you would like us to deliver and set up within 50 miles of Purcellville, the charge is $300; within 100 miles $475. The delivery charge includes delivery to a first floor or basement level if walk-out.

We will not sell you a game/deliver the game if the only entrance to your basement is an inside the house staircase. They are too narrow. Plus we have to ensure we don't mess up carpet or wood. It just isn't worth it.

You may also come and pick up the machine from our location.