1996 Williams Junk Yard

Check List When Buying A Pinball

Pinball

I was not sure I was going to keep this. I actually enjoy it. Although I'll put it up for sale, I expect to have it several months to enjoy it before it sells. (This is considered testing....) This game has great flow. The wrecking ball provides variability that pop bumpers are not even missed on this game.

Improvements:

* The back was missing the wood and sliders on the right side. We put a make shift one in place to move and slide the game safely before it was moved to my house.

* New plastic set.

* New plastic protectors.

* Cliffy protection.

* LEDs.

* New translite.

* All ramps cleaned and then cleaned again with the same stuff used to make headlight plastic clear again to pass car inspections. Looks great.

* New posts.

* Blue super band rubbers

* 3D printed replacement plastic for plastic above car targets. This is being professionally painted by an artist. I will pay extra for this but it will look great!

* TiltGraphics Blades.

The pictures have been taken with the glass off to get a better picture.

This game comes with a manual.

item Click on the Internet Pinball Database logo to the left. This is a GREAT resource to find out about the machine, see pictures, see reviews and download the rule sheet if one exists for the game. This provides additional insights into playing the game.

 

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When the game was first set up in my basement.

 

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These are the 75 or so photos I took when I tried to originally flip the game. But the more I played, the more I liked it and kept it to restore.

 

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The play field is in excellent condition. The ramps were black and dirty. But as shown below, they cleaned up nicely.

 

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I'll need to replace the arch papers. This game came from Coin Op Warehouse about 19 years ago. At the time, if a game worked, they'd clean visible areas and sell it as working. Luckily this game appears to fully work. But I removed over 21 years of dirt from the game.

 

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The cabinet is bright and vibrant. It has a few scratches but very nice.

 

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If I had to write a trivia question, I could ask: "What three games have a toilet bowl?" Maybe there are more, but I can think of Austin Powers, South Park, and Junk Yard.

 

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I did not realize that the plastic above the car targets was broken until I took it out of the game. You can see in this photo that a chunk of the bottom is taken out to the left of the lower red car.

 

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Slings were protected and not broken.

 

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The original translite had missing areas near the controlled lights.

 

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Some scratches on the right back box.

 

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The back side of the lower right back box is missing a chunk with a blue painted piece added with a nail. I may try to fix this.

 

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Small scratch in the black area. I will use a wood paint marker to fix.

 

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Some more scratches at the top front of the right back box.

 

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Front cabinet is nice but has holes where a lock bar was at some point when it was routed.

 

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The following are closeups of the play field with the game off to see details.

 

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This showed a broken plastic on the toxic waste plastic. But all these broken plastics no longer matter since all plastics replaced with new ones.

 

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Broken plastic here originally.

 

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Crack on this plastic that is hard to see.

 

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As you can see in the photos, I have a light right above this game.

 

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The sewer hole has wear around the edges that will be covered with a Cliffy protector.

 

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Original photos at the house where I bought the game.

 

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The game is home. Note the jerry-rigged right wood to even the "tracks".

 

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It is so colorful and beautiful.

 

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Ready to be hauled into the basement.

 

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In the house about to put the head up.

 

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Added sliders to the right side.

 

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Details of issues with the cabinet.

 

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Under the play field is in good condition. The subway is extremely dirty.

 

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Dirty subway.

 

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Cabinet is clean.

 

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About to take off the ramps.

 

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As usual, I label all the connectors and the hole the connector goes through. The numbers don't matter. I start from the highest number and work down.

 

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Needed to unclip the connectors.

 

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Two more connectors labeled.

 

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Several connectors here.

 

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There are two holes I am labeling under the subway and above the subway. This picture shows labels under the subway.

 

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This shows the labels above the subway.

 

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Several T-nuts were coming out. Later you will see that I added a small screw to each one to keep it from turning.

 

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Now I can start taking apart the ramps.

 

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Remove the two bolts on the front and then the back.

 

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Refrigerator removed.

 

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About to take off wire ramp.

 

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But first remove this bracket.

 

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Bracket removed.

 

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Remove the spacer to take off the ramp here.

 

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Remove the bolt to the left of the VW.

 

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Take off wire ramp.

 

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Ramp removed.

 

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Remove two plastic ramps.

 

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But first need to remove the clear plastic with the foam to stop the ball from getting stuck here.

 

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This plastic also needs to be removed. This is the only plastic I did not replace since it was clean and had the bolt plates. The new one is with the game.

 

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Now I can remove the left ramp left side ramp protector.

 

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Removing the guide and protector.

 

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Showing how the protector goes back in place later.

 

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Left ramp protector removed. Remove the bolts holding the other ramp protectors in place.

 

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Remove the small ramp screws into the play field.

 

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Ramp screws removed.

 

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Remove this screw.

 

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Remove this screw.

 

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Now the plastic ramps can be removed. But first need to remove the tiolet and blue post.

 

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Remove toilet with these two screws.

 

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Screws removed.

 

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Lift up and remove the toilet.

 

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Remove this blue post.

 

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Post removed.

 

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Remmove ramp screws.

 

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Remove these two screws.

 

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This screw removed.

 

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Ramp removed. Very dirty. The wires were tied to the other ramp that I kept together (which made it harder to move both ramps).

 

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The other ramp coming out also. Like playing twister.

 

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Both dirty ramps removed.

 

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Ramps removed.

 

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Remove the back semi circle plastic.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Now remove 4 nuts to take the resto fthis out.

 

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Assembly out . Here you can better see the broken plastic to the left of the red car.

 

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Broekn semi-circle.

 

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Cars removed.

 

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Next remove the top of the ramp loop with the red flasher.

 

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Removed.

 

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Remove VW bus.

 

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Removed.

 

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VW bus removed. Remove dog house next.

 

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Removed.

 

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Most items removed.

 

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Here is the list of all items removed and the order to remove them. Step 12 is best to do when I did it. I thought it should be moved up but you can't getto the nuts.

 

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Here are the last few steps.

 

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Remove the subway.

 

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Subway removed. Fun to remove it with all the wires. I think I disconnected the yellow wire connected to a GI light at the bottom when getting out the subway. I simply soldered the wire back.

 

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When I first started putting LEDs into the controlled lights, I quickly realized that they were not working correctly. I used the switch edge test to test the lights.

Here is what I found:

11 also lit 61, 17

12 also lit 62, 17

13 also lit 63, 17

14 also lit 64, 17

15 also lit 65, 17

16 also lit 66, 17

17 lit nothing else

18 also lit 68, 17

21 also lit 61, 27

22 also lit 62, 27

23 also lit 63, 27

24 also lit 64, 27

25 also lit 65, 27

26 also lit 66, 27

27 lit nothing else

28 also lit 68, 27

So I looked at lamp 67. This is the Angel sling on the left. The two prongs are touching and the diode wire was touching the switch rivet. I moved the prongs and added electrical tape and all the lamps worked correctly.

In the photo, to the right of the slide you will see a yellow/blue wire that was connected to the pronng that was touching the other side. You can see the electrical tape added and the prong moved.

 

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The area under the ramps was dirty.

 

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Cleaned.

 

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Eventually this area will be cleaned as well.

 

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Working on right sling area.

 

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Remove these two nuts to take this plastic off.

 

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This clear plastic spans two plastics and needs to be removed.

 

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Clear plastic removed.

 

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The two posts need to be removed.

 

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Plastic removed.

 

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Remove plastic on the right.

 

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Remove toxic waste plastic.

 

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It is important that you keep track of all the screws, bolts, nuts, and posts you remove and where they go back. That is why I take so many photos. The last photo shows all the old hardware. When I restore a pinball, I replace most visible hardware with new hardware to look shiny. It is not worth my time to try to clean it. I use the perfectly good used hardware to take with me when I do repairs so I have the hardware to replace missing parts. Plus with it being not shiny, it matches the rest of the hardware on people's games.

 

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I want to remove the front arch. In order to do so, I need to remove the right outlane guide. But will remove all the guides. These are the top screws for the right plunger lane guide.

 

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I am pointing to a screw that goes beneath the play field that also needs to be removed.

 

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These two screws need to be removed for the left plunger lane guide.

 

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the are the posts or pins that go beneath the play field.

 

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This is the right outlane that must be removed to allow the front arch to be slid back to come off.

 

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These two nuts need to be removed.

 

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This nut down here is for the other guide I showed previously.

 

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This is the nut for the right plunger guide.

 

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Now the guides can be removed.

 

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The arch is now removed.

 

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Remove the other guides.

 

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Now to clean the area under the plastics.

 

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This bolt attaches the left side of the spinner to the play field.

 

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Now the right plunger guide is removed.

 

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Dirty under the apron.

 

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Cleaning the plunger lane.

 

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Clean.

 

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Clean under the hardware to hold on the arch.

 

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Clean under here.

 

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Clean under the right hardware.

 

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Clean.

 

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Add the trough Cliffy protector.

 

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Cliffy in place.

 

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This Cliffy I will place in the outhole.

 

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Trough Cliffy mostly in place.

 

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Adding Cliffy in out hole.

 

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I want to add the Cliffy protector. But one of the nuts is under the right metal subway area. But first need to remove ramp assembly.

 

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Ramp assembly removed.

 

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Adjust this light with the assembly removed.

 

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This assembly removed.

 

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To get to this nut to remove the post to place the Cliffy protector.

 

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Nut removed. Post would not come out.

 

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Used a hammer to bang it out.

 

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Clean the area around the sewer hole. (Also note that all switches had new foam added behind the switch head.)

 

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Cliffy in place. Note that it nicely coveres the wear on the left. Posts re-added.

 

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Now remove the items around the plunger hole to add the Cliffy protector.

 

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Placing the nut back near the sewer hole.

 

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Added the metal part of the subway back.

 

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Added the ramp lifter assembly back.

 

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Clean area near Spike. The hood of the sewer hole was bent too high on the left. I needed to lower it a bit so the plastic fit better.

 

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Guide to left of Spike removed and cleaned.

 

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Remove the back plastic and clean.

 

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Added new posts and rubbers.

 

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I was about to replace the spinner decals but realized the spinner was bent so needed to buy a new spinner.

 

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Bottom of spinner bent.

 

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Lower area bent.

 

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Adding new plastics.

 

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Left plastic added.

 

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Note how the scoop is bent up on the left. I lowered it s the plastic can fit better.

 

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Plastic added above sewer scoop.

 

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Toxic sewage plastic added.

 

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Clear plastic added back.

 

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Work on the left guides.

 

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New guides and sling added.

 

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Now work on right sling and guide.

 

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Many of the T-nuts were loose. I added a screw to each one. I mistakenly bought hex screws painted white but didnt return. I can't on the play field but work great under the play field.

 

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More T-nuts with screws.

 

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Right sling area complete.

 

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Cliffy protector.

 

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Arch replaced.

 

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Add guides back.

 

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Needed to lift this plastic to fit the outlane guide.

 

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Guides replaced.

 

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Add nuts back to the guide.

 

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Nuts added.

 

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The plunger was whimpy. I wanted to add a stronger spring so the spinner would spin more. The plunger usually has an E-clip. But this game had a snap ring. Luckily years ago I bought this tool to remove 1 snap ring. 15 years later I got to remove my second snap ring.

 

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The snap ring removed. New spring added with an E-clip to be nice to any future owners.

 

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This plastic needs to have bolt plates added.

 

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Bolt plate added using 4-40 bolts and nuts.

 

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Clean this area.

 

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Clean and replaced.

 

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I found a 3D printed replacement for this broken plastic on pinside. My friend, an artist, will paint this to match the plastic.

 

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This is how the 3D plastic will fit.

 

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Showing my friend the aging of the other items.

 

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Right plastic area will be cleaned and replaced.

 

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Work on this plastic area next.

 

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Clean this area.

 

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Virginia Sales Tax

Virginia sales tax is currently 6.0%. Sales tax for in-state orders applies to machines and parts. It does not apply to the delivery or repair services.

Warranty

As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.

Reasons You Should Let Us Deliver Your Pinball (or Another Machine)

  1. We will NOT provide a warranty for the machine since we cannot be assured that a problem did not happen when you transported the machine. (As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.)
  2. We take responsibility for any damage that may occur during the delivery process.
  3. We professionally set up the machine, connect all the connectors, attach the legs, head, etc. and ensure that the pinball works properly. If anything is out of adjustment due to moving the machine, we can fix it in a few minutes as compared to having to come to your house later and charging you a trip fee and repair charge.
  4. If anything major is out of adjustment, we can order parts and repair. This hardly ever happens but it could and you and the machine are protected.

Delivery Options

We are currently set up for local delivery only within the Northern Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, and North-Eastern West Virginia area. If you are interested in shipping the pinball machine, we will contact a shipper. You will pay all crating and postage costs.

If you would like us to deliver and set up within 50 miles of Purcellville, the charge is $300; within 100 miles $475. The delivery charge includes delivery to a first floor or basement level if walk-out.

We will not sell you a game/deliver the game if the only entrance to your basement is an inside the house staircase. They are too narrow. Plus we have to ensure we don't mess up carpet or wood. It just isn't worth it.

You may also come and pick up the machine from our location.