Jersey Jack The Hobbit LE

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Pinball

I purchased this Hobbit LE NIB. I bought it from someone who already owned a Smaug edition but won this in a charity auction. It is beautiful and a great playing game. I still have a lot to learn. I have added the Laseriffic plastic protectors, green superbands, and flipper button protectors on the cabinet. I adjusted the lock bar latch to work smoother. Cliffy protectors added.

item Click on the Internet Pinball Database logo to the left. This is a GREAT resource to find out about the machine, see pictures, see reviews and download the rule sheet if one exists for the game. This provides additional insights into playing the game.

 

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Beautiful play field with invisiglass.

 

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I arrived at the York Show, Friday, September 30. I met up with Scot, from whom I bought the game NIB. The box was there waiting for me.

 

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I was taking some pictures during the York Show. The box behind the Simpson Pinball Party pinball is my Hobbit LE.

 

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It rained. I got the game home about 4:30 on Saturday October 1, 2016.

 

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The game in the house. The box is a little wet at the bottom but the pinball was safe.

 

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Wet bottom of the box.

 

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The first look at the game. I did text Scot to tell him I got the game home and in the basement. I then sent him a text that said "There is nothing in the box." I waited a few seconds then texted him "Just kidding."

 

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The box with the legs, balls, etc.

 

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The birth of Hobbit LE as the front legs exit the box.

 

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The game up on my fork lift.

 

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The screw in the crease fell out of the game. These screws are used under the play field. Everything looked attached so probably one that fell into the game. I also found a large screw on the magnet.

 

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My first few of the play field.

 

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The underside. I need to clip the 4 orange straps for the pop ups.

 

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Adjusting the lock bar. A tiny bit of the decal worn off.

 

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The yellow lever to the left.

 

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Push down on the lock bar.

 

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To lock the lock bar. I adjusted the lock bar so it is much smoother.

 

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I added flipper buton protectors.

 

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Two of the left yellow targets were not working. The switch matrix shows they are bad and the picture shows where they are.

 

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The wire was disconnected.

 

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The ball was spinning out of the right wire ramp into the right out lane. I added these felt dots. They seem to help. I bought these at Home Depot. I ended up looking at posts on pinside.com and bending the lower double wire ramp up a bit. This really helps and I have since removed the felt dots.

 

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The ball got stuck during gameplay. I thought the ball search would pop up the Warg and free it. It did not move.

 

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I took the ball out and the Warg popup did not fall due to gravity as it should have.

 

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I interrupt my ball popup issue with the two screws I found in the game when I first got it.

 

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I removed the top of the popup.

 

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I labelled the 3 connectors and disconnected. I unscrewed and took out the popup.

 

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This picture shows the Warg rubbing on the left....

 

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...but not on the right.

 

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I was hoping that the asembly was mis-aligned. It was not.

 

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I labelled it and took it apart.

 

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The coil looks fried.

 

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And the coil does not fit correctly on the shaft. It should have went all the way down. The coil fried. I will be sent a new assembly but it concerns me that the coil fried in the 1st 12 days. Hopefully just part of the issue with the I/O board.

 

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Missing Warg popup.

 

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The I/O board is not registering the top right EOS switch. I know I spoke about it on the Jersey Jack repair page. I may not have explicitly spoke about it here. But I checked continuity of the shared black/black wire between all 3 EOS switches and there was continuity and the other two EOS switches work. I checked continuity between the dedicated black/red wire to the connector at the box and then to the connector on the board. I then shorted the appropriate two pins to show that the board was not registering the EOS switch. So Frank at Jersey Jack will send a new board.

I used my laptop and the manual to label the connectors, even though they are obvious, I like doing this.

 

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Optional DescriptionThe two in the back are hard to see with all the wires coming in.

 

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The other connector in the back of the game.

 

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About to install Cliffy protectors. This side looked easier.

 

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I removed the VUK.

 

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I removed all the nuts on the plastic.

 

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I removed the plastic.

 

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Now the area is wide open to work on.

 

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I removed the back bumper.

 

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I needed to lift the play field to remove the nuts for the two posts with the black rubbers. This one is on the right.

 

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This post is on the left.

 

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Everything removed. Put the mylar in first that was sent.

 

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Then add the Cliffy protector.

 

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Start to reinstall everything.

 

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Back together.

 

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This side is more fun.

 

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I removed the nut for the pile of gold.

 

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And moved it out of the way.

 

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I will take off the VUK but first....

 

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...I need to unscrew these nuts and move the green plastic out of the way.

 

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The Smaug mylar can go in now.

 

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I can now remove the nuts for the VUK.

 

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The two posts are underneath to remove. The one on the left is here. I did lift the play field to take off but lightly reattached both plastics.

 

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The other nut is under the VUK assembly to the left of the black subway so this needs to come off.

 

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The VUK moved away to show the other nut to remove.

 

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The Balin mylar goes in first then the Cliffy and then reinstall everything including the two screws and VUK under the play field.

 

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Everything back together.

 

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I will even add Cliffy switch protectors.

 

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Cliffy switch protector on the right.

 

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Cliffy switch protector on the left.

 

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The Cliffy trough protector will go here.

 

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Before the protector is added.

 

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Remove the apron with the two screws.

 

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Apron removed.

 

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The screw on the right and the one behind the trough will come out to slide in the protector.

 

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The protector added but not yet adjusted.

 

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In order to unscrew the black wood to get the right side of the Cliffy protector in, I had to remove the auto plunger assembly.

 

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Both sides installed.

 

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Auto plunger reinstalled.

 

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The Cliffy protector adjusted to not go over the groove for the ball.

 

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The hole of the Warg pop up while I am waiting for a replacement.

 

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Jersey Jack (Frank) sent me a new board since my EOS switch was not working on the top right flipper.

 

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Although the connectors are obvious, I did label them and mark them.

 

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These two back here were a pain to label and take out.

 

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The board is out but it was very snug.

 

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I moved the left set of connectors out of the way.

 

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And will remove these two plastic wire holders.

 

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Wire holders gone.

 

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Board back in with the back connector connected. It was a pain to put the board in. I hoped I could slide the board under all the screws since the hols are tear shaped. This does not work. I needed to take all the screw out. Carefully line up the holes and put the screws back in. This allowed the board to sit on top of all the posts.

 

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About to put back the connectors and the USB at the right.

 

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All connectors in.

 

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Left wire and wire holder back in place.

 

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PC covered. This took about 50 minutes.

 

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I tested the EOS switch. It did not work. Frustrating. I shorted the two pins and it DID work. Hmmmm. What did I do differently than before? I pushed harder on the pins. I bent the connector towards the left and tested. The switch worked. I left go. It didn't work. I pushed the connector to the left a little. It did not work. I pushed it a bit more and it is now at an angle to the left and works all the time. The original board was probably not bad but this was good practice.

 

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Jersey Jack also sent a new Warg assembly. I screewed it back in and attached the 3 connectors. I used this nut driver to raise the pop up so I can add the top back on.

 

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Top added back on.

 

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While changing settings, I noticed this typo....

 

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First game after I installed V1.9 of the code, the ball got stuck on the top flipper leaning on the light. I needed to take off the glass to free up.

Virginia Sales Tax

Virginia sales tax is currently 6.0%. Sales tax for in-state orders applies to machines and parts. It does not apply to the delivery or repair services.

Warranty

As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.

Reasons You Should Let Us Deliver Your Pinball (or Another Machine)

  1. We will NOT provide a warranty for the machine since we cannot be assured that a problem did not happen when you transported the machine. (As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.)
  2. We take responsibility for any damage that may occur during the delivery process.
  3. We professionally set up the machine, connect all the connectors, attach the legs, head, etc. and ensure that the pinball works properly. If anything is out of adjustment due to moving the machine, we can fix it in a few minutes as compared to having to come to your house later and charging you a trip fee and repair charge.
  4. If anything major is out of adjustment, we can order parts and repair. This hardly ever happens but it could and you and the machine are protected.

Delivery Options

We are currently set up for local delivery only within the Northern Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, and North-Eastern West Virginia area. If you are interested in shipping the pinball machine, we will contact a shipper. You will pay all crating and postage costs.

If you would like us to deliver and set up within 50 miles of Purcellville, the charge is $300; within 100 miles $475. The delivery charge includes delivery to a first floor or basement level if walk-out.

We will not sell you a game/deliver the game if the only entrance to your basement is an inside the house staircase. They are too narrow. Plus we have to ensure we don't mess up carpet or wood. It just isn't worth it.

You may also come and pick up the machine from our location.