Demolition Man by Williams - Sold

Check List When Buying A Pinball

Pinball

Judge Dredd was my first game I ever bought, but I think this is a better game than Judge Dredd. It has many modes and a good ruleset. It has a lot of ramps. It is fun to play and never gets boring.

This game has almost 50 hours worth of work including taking the entire game apart and cleaning, changing rubbers, posts, lane guides, bumper assemblies, Cliffy colored posts, and new flipper coils and assemblies. LEDs, plastic protectors, clear plastics, new claw opto board, replaced driver board with refurbished board. I bought a new police car and had to replace the front car since it was broken apart and not working. The finishing touch is the light blue leg protectors and new legs, bolts and levelers.

The pictures have been taken with the glass off to get a better picture.

This game comes with a manual.

item Click on the Internet Pinball Database logo to the left. This is a GREAT resource to find out about the machine, see pictures, see reviews and download the rule sheet if one exists for the game. This provides additional insights into playing the game.

 

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Nice back glass with LEDs.

 

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Nice play field.

 

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Upper play field.

 

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Middle upper play field.

 

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Lower play field.

 

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Apron and hand grips.

 

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Cabinet in pretty good condition.

 

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Right back box scratched.

 

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Left cabinet.

 

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Left back box is good. Opps. Realized I did not take a finished picture of the front of the game. There is one a few down when I first got this game. It doesn't look much different.

 

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Play field detail.

 

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Note that the tunnel is now visible with a new police car and a replaced bottom car.

 

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Plastic over flipper is still cracked.

 

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As originally purchased. Note the credit dot.

 

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Display is nice.

 

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Very dirty but in decent shape.

 

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Upper play field.

 

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Lower play field.

 

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Lower play field.

 

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Left ramp protector needs to be screwed into ramp rather than a bread twisty.

 

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Plastic above flipper is broken.

 

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Left sling good.

 

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Right sling good.

 

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Ramps dirty but not broken.

 

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The claw works fine. (Later on in the photos after I played the game two or three times, the claw would stop working. I did a search on Pinside and it was suggested that the optos were dirty or probably failing. I tried to buy new optos. But a new board was $32 with postage and it makes no sense to buy two optos for about $20 with postage and attempt to install correctly, when the new board is new, better, less power, etc.)

 

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The Claw.

 

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Cabinet in good condition (picture is blurry).

 

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Right backbox scratched.

 

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Close up of scratches.

 

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Left cabinet.

 

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Left back box.

 

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Front.

 

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Dirty before.

 

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Clean After.

 

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Dirty before.

 

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Clean After.

 

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Dirty before.

 

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Clean After.

 

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Original flippers.

 

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Note that the left (orange) flipper should be FL-11629 and was replaced with the weaker FL-11630. This explains why the left flipper could not get the ball up the right ramp to the claw.

 

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Before replacement.

 

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Close up.

 

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Decided to clean under apron.

 

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Clean. And easier to clean around flippers and out lanes.

 

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New flipper and parts. I drew the image at the top left. All flippers should be facing (at least conceptually) this direction when lining up orange on the left, yellow in the middle, and red on the right. The picture on the flipper coil shows that the diodes have the banded side pointing to the right.

 

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Left flipper added.

 

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Right flipper assembly replaced.

 

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Flippers installed.

 

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Tried to follow the directions on page 1-43 of the manual to remove the claw and elevator. I removed all the bolts but it will not budge (see pictures below). This is the before shot. (Solution below which was basically to gently pry the motor off the wall with a straight edged screwdriver.)

 

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Removed the claw cover.

 

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Removed the girders on the back.

 

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Changing tasks to removing the ramps. The VUK (Vertical UpKicker) ramp needs to be removed first. But the plastic in front needs to be removed (and cleaned) first. As the next picture shows, the VUK is attached to the play field with 2 bolts and a wire that extends below the play field. Use of a magnetic 1/4" hex driver will make it easier to take off and put them back on.

 

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Plastic and ramp removed. Both cleaned. Note that I keep step by step instructions so I can put it back together. As you can see, I also take a lot of photos. The instructions that I wrote above are basically duplicated here as I take apart the wire ramps and then the plastic ramps. I follow the directions (or photos) starting from the last step towards the first when reinstalling. As I note below when I take apart the ramps, and then as I put them back together, the center ramp, left ramp, and Claw plastic all need to be reinstalled at the same time. They are so closely fitted together that it is important to work with all three of these ramps and get the wires pushed through the holes before securing them.

 

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Plastic and VUK ramp removed.

 

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Preparing to remove all the ramps and the claw and the elevator. I am labeling each connector and taking them apart.

 

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Left side back labelled.

 

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Left middle labelled.

 

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Right middle labelled.

 

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I removed the 6 bolts in the back. See white arrows. I can't figure out how to remove the claw and elevator. I followed the directions. Oh well. I will figure it out later. I added the middle two screws back in so that the assemblies are attached. [I never took the elevator assembly off but carefully cleaned it in place. As I stated above and below, I finally got the claw motor off by gently prying from the back wall with a screwdriver.]

 

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I removed this bolt holding the back plastic ramp to the elevator assembly.

 

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About to take the right wire ramp off. [Note that the back girder has been removed.]

 

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The right wire ramp (which connects to the right plastic ramp) has been removed.

 

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I am cleaning them with steel wool and putting them on this template to keep track. I am currently putting screws and bolts back into the posts they come from.

 

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The left top right ramp will be removed next. This ramp connects to the Start Acmag left most position on the claw semi circle plastic and to the center ramp (shown to the left of the yellow target). This center ramp has a very steep incline which leads behind the left end of the center ramp and the short wire ramp that leads from the claw to the bumpers. The right ramp ends at the top right of the photo where it joins the wire ramp we are talking about.

 

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The left wire ramp removed. (Note that the center ramp entry shown above the two yellow circle targets) connects to the lower left wire ramp that drops in front of the retina scan.) This wire ramp will be removed next.

 

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The left ramp removed and cleaned with the steel wool. The instructions are getting longer.

 

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The lower left wire ramp to the retina scan area from center ramp has been removed.

 

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This center plastic ramp was not budging. It was not connected to the playfield with the two screws at the flap. It was simply held in place by all the other stuff around it. In order to remove this ramp, I needed to remove the red dome at the left for the flasher (shown near the top left of the photo) and the clear plastic that I am pointing to. I checked the connectors to the flasher, they were not shorted.

 

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The ramp removed and dirty.

 

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Another view.

 

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Center plastic ramp removed.

 

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The center plastic ramp's connection to the wire ramp was only connected by 1 rivet. I added a #40 1/4" bolt and nut on the next picture to keep it in place. The head sticks up a little higher but is out of the path of the ball.

 

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The bracket in place with the rivet and #40 1/4" bolt.

 

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Cleaned.

 

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About to take out this semi circle plastic ramp by taking out the 3 1/4" hex bolts around the inner circle.

 

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This wire ramp is extremely dirty. But at the moment I just moved it out of the way. As I describe above, you can see that this short wire ramp which leads from the claw to the pop bumpers needs to pivot forward and to the right out of the way so that the left ramp can be removed. [Remember this later - like I forgot - to put the left ramp in before reconnecting the wire ramp.]

 

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With the wire ramp out of the way, I can move the ramp, but....

 

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These wires won't budge. So I need to push them out from underneath.

 

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Here is the mess of wires that won't come out.

 

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I will move the left ramp to get to the wires.

 

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Here is the mess of wires underneath. I need to push them through one by one.

 

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The ramps are out and extremely dirty.

 

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I keep washing my hands and they keep getting dirty. You should see my PC keyboard.

 

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Now onto the right ramp.

 

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I need to remove the right back diverter.

 

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Vanna is now showing where the diverter ramp is that needs to be removed.

 

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And here it is from underneath.

 

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I need to disconnect the set of 3 lights and remove the green light board to get into the area.

 

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With the board removed, I can fit the 3/32" allen wrench in.

 

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Removing the dirty diverter.

 

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Diverter removed. I will also remove the washer at the hole.

 

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The dirty diverter.

 

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The dirty right ramp.

 

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All the ramps removed.

 

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The clean diverter. Instructions keep growing.

 

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New plastic.

 

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New bumper caps.

 

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New police car.

 

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Dirty ramp.

 

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Clean ramp.

 

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Dirty ramp.

 

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Clean ramp with new clear plastic at the top.

 

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Dirty ramp.

 

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Clean ramp with new semi circle plastic.

 

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With all the ramps off I was now certain nothing was holding the claw motor in place. I used a flat head screw driver to gently pry from the back wall.

 

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The tangle of wires needed to be clipped from a tie to get the wires through the hole.

 

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The body finally off.

 

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The motor removed. I just need to remove the conector to the opto board.

 

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The motor assembly free. The connector removed.

 

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A view of the optos that I will work on another day. [I actually decided to just purchase a new claw opto board for $32.]

 

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Left ramp and in/out lane guide. Note the yellowed center clear plastic. [I added the washer since the slings were not broken and wanted to play before I restored and added the plastic protectors.]

 

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In/out lane guide removed. I will put a Cliffy switch protector into the in lane.

 

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Before.

 

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Cleaned.

 

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Completed. LEDs. New posts. Plastic protector. New clear plastic. Cliffy switch protector.

 

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Note center lane guide clear plastics is new and no longer yellowed.

 

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Right sling and in/out lane guide before.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Clean.

 

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Completed.

 

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Note the new clear plastic for the lane guide.

 

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Back box before.

 

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Back box with LEDs. Flasher LEDs will be added later after I replace the driver board and ensure flasher circuit works.

 

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Before.

 

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After

 

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Complete

 

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The next 18 or so pictures show changing and cleaning the back area.

 

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Note the light blue Cliffy posts and LEDs. New posts. New LEDs. The left bumper light is not actually connected and will be replaced over the weekend. The foam pads behind the yellow targets will be replaced once I find my stash of them.

 

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This ramp will be removed, the back blue plastics will be removed and cleaned.

 

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Cleaned. The righ tblue plastic is cracked. I used packing tape to tape the back.

 

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Blue plastics removed.

 

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Ramp removed to be cleaned. The right switch was connected with a paper clip wire.

 

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Dirty

 

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More Dirt.

 

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Cleaning

 

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I still have the left side to work on but starting to look very nice.

 

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Nicer.

 

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Cleaned. Note that the switch on the right of the ramp now has two screws and connected correctly and securely.

 

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Cleaned. I have not done the tunnel and the left plastic. I probably won't replace the yellowed plastic because it protects ball movement and cannot be seen.

 

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Cleaned and re-assembled.

 

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Cleaned but cracked.

 

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Noticed that the light in the left bumper was not actually connected. Knew I should change out the bumpers (and the flippers) and about to do so. (For now on I will always replace all flipper assemblies, coils and bumpers.)

 

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Unscrewing the base. Already unscrewed the two metal posts under the play field.

 

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Cutting the other side of the light.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Clean.

 

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Replacement parts.

 

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Look at the difference in the white of the new bumper compared to the yellowed one on the right.

 

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These are the wires that the new light will attach to. The picture above shows the where the right post of the metal part of the bumper comes down below the play field. I have not yet lined it up and stuck it through the brown yoke assembly sticking out from the bumper coil bracket. The picture below shows where the left post inserts into the brown yoke portion of the bumper assembly.

 

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Another angle.

 

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Left bumper complete, working and looking great.

 

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Right bumper removed and dirt.

 

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Clean.

 

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So clean, fresh and nice.

 

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Here is a view of my messy basement while working on a pinball.

 

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Parts all over the place.

 

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More parts. At least under the game to protect from stepping on.

 

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I still need to clean all the plastics and tunnel on the left but diverted this evening to all the fun work. Original flipper.

 

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Before.

 

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New parts plus the coil.

 

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Coil with wires soldered on at my desk rather than in 3D space.

 

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Taking everything off. The green lamp board is in the way of the lower right bolts.

 

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Green lamp board blocking bolt.

 

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Green lamp board loosened and moved over to get to the bolt.

 

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Out to remove the white plastic. This needs to be taken out because even though the 3 screws screw into the base, they also have nuts behind the base that need to be tightened.

 

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New white plastic.

 

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Back in place with the coil.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Clean (and in focus).

 

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Blue Cliffy posts.

 

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Flipper in place.

 

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Assembly complete.

 

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Dirty subway ramp.

 

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Ramp removed and dirty wood.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Clean.

 

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Nice clean ramp.

 

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Dirty eject shield.

 

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Old and new.

 

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In place. Later, when I played, the switch was getting stuck and trying to pop out the ball when not there. I needed to loosen the two bolts holding the switch assembly (which can be seen above to the left of the strand of wires and directly above the metal bracket attached to the play field).

 

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The old driver board with the flasher problem. (I know it is on the board since the flasher F111 secondary blows when the flashers are not connected.)

 

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Labelled all connectors and took them off.

 

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Replaced the board. I then went through the game and replaced all the flashers with LEDs since the flashers now work.

 

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Next I replaced all the controlled LED lights. Another incredibly dirty board. I took out each board and cleaned it and cleaned each insert to get rid of layers of dirt. The lights now look brighter, not only because they are LEDs, but because the plastic is clean.

 

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Now to work on the left side of the game to complete the work.

 

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Dirty tunnel.

 

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The tunnel about to come out to be cleaned.

 

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This is the yellowed plastic againt the back. I tried to flame polish. It helped a little.

 

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Dirty tunnel.

 

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Clean tunnel.

 

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The dirty play field below the tunnel. Note that the red car is broken. This explains why the car was not moving well.

 

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I found a replacement car to use instead of the red one.

 

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Cleaned. The eye ball is also clean.

 

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The new police car.

 

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The old police car and the broken red car.

 

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An out of focus picture of the broken car.

 

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Tunnel replaced and left plastics.

 

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This is the claw opto board that is not working well.

 

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Old board.

 

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New board installed and motor in game.

 

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About to put the connector in.

 

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Claw motor installed. I need to remove the 3 posts to get the plastic on the claw.

 

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I need to remove the posts to get the claw cover on.

 

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Claw cover on and the 3 posts removed.

 

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Post reinstalled.

 

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Right ramp reinstalled.

 

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I got all the wires in the back so they are not seen except for this one.

 

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Connect the right ramp to the elevator assembly.

 

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Reinstall the diverter.

 

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I removed the light board again and used a 3/32" allen wrench to attach the diverter back to the coil.

 

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Diverter reinstalled.

 

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Add this plastic but will soon need to remove to fit everything in. Basically, this plastic, the left ramp and the center ramp have to be installed at the same time since they interfere with each other and I needed to ensure that wires from all ramps went to the under side of the play field.

 

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This wire ramp installed. But I forgot that this ramp needs to be moved to get the steep left ramp in position.

 

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Lights installed.

 

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Moved the wire ramp to get the left ramp installed.

 

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I need to ensure that the left ramp wires and the center ramp wires go through the hole before anything is installed.

 

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Still aligning the ramps and the wires.

 

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Reinstalled, again.

 

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All plastic ramps in place.

 

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Another view. I worked really hard on this so you need to see it several times.

 

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More.

 

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From the other side.

 

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Both left wire ramps need to screw into the playfield under the center plastic that goes to the top left flipper. Not fun.

 

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Left lower and left upper wire ramps installed.

 

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Right wire ramp installed.

 

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VUK and plastic installed.

 

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Done

 

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Done

 

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Done

Virginia Sales Tax

Virginia sales tax is currently 6.0%. Sales tax for in-state orders applies to machines and parts. It does not apply to the delivery or repair services.

Warranty

As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.

Reasons You Should Let Us Deliver Your Pinball (or Another Machine)

  1. We will NOT provide a warranty for the machine since we cannot be assured that a problem did not happen when you transported the machine. (As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.)
  2. We take responsibility for any damage that may occur during the delivery process.
  3. We professionally set up the machine, connect all the connectors, attach the legs, head, etc. and ensure that the pinball works properly. If anything is out of adjustment due to moving the machine, we can fix it in a few minutes as compared to having to come to your house later and charging you a trip fee and repair charge.
  4. If anything major is out of adjustment, we can order parts and repair. This hardly ever happens but it could and you and the machine are protected.

Delivery Options

We are currently set up for local delivery only within the Northern Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, and North-Eastern West Virginia area. If you are interested in shipping the pinball machine, we will contact a shipper. You will pay all crating and postage costs.

If you would like us to deliver and set up within 50 miles of Purcellville, the charge is $300; within 100 miles $475. The delivery charge includes delivery to a first floor or basement level if walk-out.

We will not sell you a game/deliver the game if the only entrance to your basement is an inside the house staircase. They are too narrow. Plus we have to ensure we don't mess up carpet or wood. It just isn't worth it.

You may also come and pick up the machine from our location.