Data East / Sega / Stern Repairs

Table of Contents

Resets on Stern Whitestar IO Boards
128 x 16 DMD Display
Apollo 13 [Sega]
Austin Powers [Stern]
Batman Forever [Sega]
Elvis [Stern]
Frankenstein [Sega]
Godzilla [Sega]
Guns N' Roses (GNR) [Data East]
Indiana Jones [Stern]
Jurassic Park (JP) [Data East]
Laser War [Data East]
Last Action Hero (LAH) [Data East]
Lord Of The Rings (LOTR) [Stern]
Maverick [Sega]
Monday Night Football (MNF) [Data East]
Monopoly [Stern]
NASCAR [Stern]
Pirates Of The Caribbean (POTC) [Stern]
Ripley's Believe It Or Not (RBION) [Stern]
RoboCop [Data East]
Rocky and Bullwinkle (The Adventures of) [Date East]
South Park (SP) [Sega/Stern]
Star Trek 25th Anniversary [Data East]
Star Wars Trilogy [Sega]
Tommy [Data East]
Twister [Sega]
Viper Night Driving [Sega]

 Resets on Stern Whitestar IO Boards


The game resets constantly. This happened on a RBION. But can be on games in the general area of 2003-2005.

This just happened on an Austin Powers. So I want to add some additional information below.


Before you do the steps below, ensure the power connector to the top board (CPU) at CN2 is seated properly. This is at the lower left of the CPU on top.

Ensure the power connector to the I/O driver board at the bottom is seated properly at J16. This is at the top left of the lower board. (On my Austin Powers, using the test illustrated below, my CPU was measuring 4.72 and constantly resetting. After I noticed that these two connectors were loose and fixed them (and also checked all other connectors), I retested the volted and got 5.002. The game worked with no resets.

Chas and Patrick at Stern Pinball recommend checking the voltage on the I/O Power Driver board. Ensure that the voltage is between 4.95 and 5.05 volts. I try to get the game between 5 and 5.05 volts.

The above picture shows the bottom middle of the I/O Power Driver board. Note the test point TPL1(blue arrow pointing to it). Use a DMM on DC voltage and turn the game power on. Touch the black lead to the screw shown at the bottom of the picture between the two connectors. This screw provides ground to the board. Touch the red lead to the wire loop test point. The voltage should read as close to 5 volts as possible. Mine reads 5.05 volts. If this drops below about 4.78 volts, this could cause the game to reset.

The above picture shows the I/O Power Driver board on my Elvis Gold. (As Chas told me, the CPU [at the top of the back box] has the batteries; the I/O Power Driver board has the fuses.) The blue arrow at the top left points to R116. There is lock tight over the dial to stop it from moving. Look at the next photo for a closer image. The flash reflected, but there is a dial that you can use a small screw driver to turn the dial clockwise a little to increase the voltage. Check the voltage as described above. Repeat process until voltage is between 5 and 5.05 volts.

 Data East 128 x 16 DMD Display


The display is not working.


This display was used in several games: Checkpoint, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles, Hook, Batman, and Start Trek 25th Anniversary all by Data East. These are very expensive. Right now you can only buy them over seas.

This display requires a chip in chip socket position U8. You can buy a chip for $10 for K's Arcade or transfer the existing chip from your existing board.

I helped a customer, Sean Underwood, replace this board over the phone without ever going over to him so I do not have pictures of the 2 connectotrs into the game. So be sure to note the position of the connectors. The large single row connector is pretty simple since it is missing a pin as the key. The double row connector should connect in the same direction as the original board. Pin 1 should be labelled. Ensure you put the connector in such that pin 1 is in the same place on the connector. Thanks Sean for the use of your photos.

The picture below shows the original board at the bottom and the replacement board at the top. Note that the chip on the left with the white paper will be removed and placed in the chip socket of the new board at the right side of the board.

The picture below is a close up of the chip. Note that the chip has a notch at the bottom which lines up with the silk screen on the board that shows the straight line and the indent triangle. This notch will be lined up appropriately on the new board. Radio Shack sells a chip puller and putter in set for about $10. Use the tweezer type tool to gently pull out the chip straight out to be careful not to bend the legs.

The picture below shows the chip removed form the original board.

The picture below shows the new board with the chip socket. Note the silk screened line at the top and the semi circle. The notch of the chip should go in with it facing to the top.

Another view of the board.



Thanks to Chas at Stern Pinball for explaining this to me.

I always ensured I get the exact same coil that should be in the location. Chas explained to me that if the coil has about the same resistance and can physically fix in the location then a replacement coil could work. I could not find an 090-5036-OT coil for the auto plunger on a Monopoly game.

There is a service bulletin (no. 139) explaining that the original coil may be too powerful and causing the F21 fuse to blow. The original coil is a 23-700. This has a rating of 3.1 Ohms. The bulletin suggests replacing with a 24-940. This has a rating of 5.5 Ohms.

The less resistance, the more powerful the coil.

So as long as I find a coil with about 5.5 Ohms and can fit in the location, the coil will work. It is probably obvious, but I needed to learn this. I could even use a Bally/Williams coil if the resistance was the same and fit.

The power always comes into the banded side of the diode

There are no diodes on coils on a SAM system since they are now on the board.

Typical Uses Stern # Mapping
Trough Upkicker, Pop Bumper, post 090-5044-00B 26-1200
Autolauncher, lock kicker, slingshot, super vuk 090-5001-00B 23-800
VUK, autolaunch, bank reset 090-5036-00T 24-940
Ramp Diverter, control gate 090-5031-00 32-1800
Upper Flipper 090-5067-00T 25-1400
Lower Flipper 090-5032-00T 22-1080
Magnet 090-5042-00 22-650
drop target reset 090-5022-00T 23-700
door lift 090-5004-00B 27-1500



 Sega Apollo 13 a switch does not work


An important hole with a solenoid eject was not ejecting the ball so the game play would stop.


Once the ball is ejected from the hole when the ball is searched for, we know that the solenoid works and it is a switch problem.

Before we try to fix an individual switch, test other switches in the row and/or column and see if a row or column is out.

In this case, other switches in the row were out so we should not focus on the switch. See the problem, Sega Apollo 13 one row of switches do not work.


 Sega Apollo 13 one row of switches do not work


One row of switches were not working on the game.


After thinking that there could be a problem on the board and testing as shown in Clay's guides, this was not the problem. There was continuity between the switches but not between any switch and the pin that controlled the row. There must be a broken wire.

I looked carefully and found the wires that were broken off the switch at the very bottom of the playfield on the right hand side. The metal bar that holds up the playfield was the culprit. The wire was getting caught under the bar when the playfield was lifted and breaking off of the switch.

The wire was soldered back and all switches in the row worked.

If several switches in a row or column were not working, we could have checked continuity between a working switch and non-working switch. If continuity was not there, then a wire was disconnected or broken someplace between the switches.


 Sega Apollo 13 the right flipper is not working


The right flipper would not work while playing the game.


The flipper button was recognized in the switch test. I looked at and tested the solenoid and it looked good and tested good. I Tested the transistors, which also appeared to work. I looked at the solenoid again from a different angle and it was clear that one of the wires was not connected. Therefore, the moral of the story is to not assume a wire connection looks good. Look from several angles to ensure that it is actually attached. Tugging lightly on a wire would also be helpful.


 Sega Apollo 13 Moon Magnet Blowing Fuse


I bought an Apollo 13 and no coils were working. F21 was blown. I originally replaced with a 5 amp slow blow as shown in the manual. It immediately blew. Researching on RGP suggested that the Moon Magnet may be the culprit. I removed the dedicated moon magnet fuse (under the playfield near the moon) and replaced F21 and the game worked (except of course for the magnet).


First, researching the Service Bullitens on Stern's web site stated that F21 should be replaced with a 3 amp slow blow rather than a 5 amp slow blow.

I bought a new magnet core and magnet coil and replaced the moon magnet. (This is not a fun task. I purchased 2 spare gear assemblies for the moon motor part # 530-5374-02. When I spoke to Chas at Stern, he said there were only about 20 left and when gone would never be reproduced. So in the future, today is 12/8/2010, if you need a spare, I may have them. If you need them now, Pinball Resource can order them.)

I replaced the transistor on the moon magnet transistor board. I put a 3amp slow blow into the dedicated moon magnet fuse. But F21 continued to blow. Note that the moon magnet transistor board is located under the playfield at the right side near the right flipper.

I took out the count down board and replaced the 555 timing chip and Q4, Q5, and Q6. I checked all diodes and resistors.

Then I tested and the 3amp dedicated moon magnet fuse blew.

I called Steve at Pinball Resource about another order I placed. Since I was speaking with him, I asked him about this problem. He suggested that I try different fuses.

I stopped at Radio Shack on the way home from work and bought fuses. I replaced both F21 and the dedicated moon magnet fuse with the new 3amp slow blows. THE MAGNET WORKED and did not blow the fuse!

The reason the fuses from Radio Shack worked was because they were actually 3amp slow blow fuses. I thought I was using 3amp slow blow fuses but they were actually 3amp time delayed fuses. They are more sensitive. In this case, just enough for the moon magnet to not work.

So, if I were using 3amp slow blow fuses, after I replaced the magnet core, magnet coil, and transistor on the moon magnet transistor board, the moon magnet would have worked....

 Stern Austin Powers Diverter Not Always Diverting Ball


The diverter magnet works in test and game play. It just did not divert the ball all of the time.


The coil magnet was not pulling the ball to the left. If you look at the screws at the left you will see the indents where they were originally all the way to the left. I moved them all the way to the right but then the ball did not go through. So I placed the ball there and moved the coil as far to the right as a could to get the ball through. The ball has diverted every time.


 Sega Batman Forever Kicks out two balls every time


Two balls are always kicked out to the plunger.


There were 5 balls installed in the game rather than four. I took out the extra ball and it worked.


 Sega Batman Forever Upper Right Flipper locks up electrically when flipped


When the player presses the right flipper button, the 2 right flippers go up, but the upper right flipper remains energized and gets hot and will probably burn if not brought down. By pressing the left flipper button, the left flipper flips and the right flipper goes down.


I replaced the 1N4004 diode on the upper right flipper and it worked.


 Stern Elvis Clear Balls Showing a ball when there are no balls in trough


The clear ball screen was showing a ball in the plunger area when all balls were removed.


I needed to take the balls out of the game. I went in the test menu to clear the balls. All balls were removed but the screen still showed a ball in the plunger area. I took off the trough and looked at the opto board. The transmitter board looked good. I used my jeweler's magnifying helmet to look at the solder joints and it looked like a cracked solder joint. I reflowed the solder and added a little and the switch worked.


 Stern Elvis Ball Getting Stuck Under Heartbreak Hotel


The ball was going into the Heartbreak Hotel and resting against the post and not registering.


During ball search, the coil engaged so quickly that the ball would never move. (I assume this needs to be improved in the design.) The switch worked when tested by hand. Played a game and realized that the ball was not registering the switch. I turned off the game and manually and subjectively pulled the metal wire on the switch down. This caused the ball to recognize the switch and work fine.


 Sega Frankenstein Shows Error Open Coin Door


When you turn on the game, it says to Open the Coin Door.


I noticed a ball was stuck in the monsters collar. I also realized that game information (like Free Play) was not being remembered. I replaced the batteries and no longer received this error.


 Sega Frankenstein Vertical Upkicker Not Recognizing The Ball


When the ball went into the vertical upkicker at the top right of the playfield, game play would stop until the game went into search mode and kicked out the ball.


Therefore, the coil was working. The switch was not working.

In test mode, I connected the two wires on the switch and it was recognized. The switch on the game had two leafs. I had a replacement switch with the typical three leafs. I tested the switch with the wires connected to the same 2 leafs on the non-working switch. They did not work. I put one of the wires on the 3rd leaf and the switch worked. It appears that the non-working switch leaf broke. Instead of fixing the problem, the wire was soldered to another leaf and the switch did not work.


 Sega Frankenstein Plunger Switch Not Always Working


The game does not always plunge the ball when the plunger switch is switched.


In switch mode, the switch sometimes worked; sometimes did not. I realized that the two screws were loose that connected the switch to the base. I tightened the screws and the switch always worked. I tested in game mode and it worked fine.


 Sega Frankenstein Lower Set of Backglass Lights Not Lit


I took off the backglass to change the batteries. I noticed that all #47 lights below the middle of the backglass were not on.


I tried to change a light, it did not work. I checked the fuse chart. Fuse F4 on the driver board controlled some of the back box lighting. I tested the fuse. It was blown. I replaced the fuse and the lights all lit.


 Sega Godzilla Magnets Not Working


None of the magnets are working.


Fuse F20 is blown. I replaced with a 3amp SB. The top orbit magnet works once and then the fuse blows. Need to call Sega. (Re-looking at this, I solved it but don't remember why...)


 Data East Guns N' Roses Coils Not Working


When a game is started the coils are not working.


It turns out the Left/Right Relay is not working. After tracing down the problem. It turns out the pin 10 and pin 11 on the 2J 7408 had connectivity. The 7408 was ruined. the L/R relay was ruined and the Q29 TIP 102 and Q21 pretransistor were ruined. I replaced these and fixed pin 10 and 11 so there was no connectivity. The coils work.


 Data East Guns N' Roses Display Not Working Correctly


Display has missing areas that constantly change.


The ribbon cable was wrapped around the outside of the CPU and screwed under the bottom left screw. I was hoping this was the problem. I bought a new cable, which this machine needs anyway but the display is doing this a bit less.

It turns out that Cherry displays do not work. I fond a Vishay display and this worked.


 Stern Indiana Jones LEDs Do Not Work


Got a beautiful new machine and all three LEDs (Ark, Skull, Swordsman) did not work.


These run off the auxillairy connector J2 and the driver board. It made no sense that they didn't work, especially all three. It sounded like a wire was not connected.

I noticed a connector in the cabinet was not connected but it had an orange wire on the male side and orange, red, black, and grey/red on the female side. I called Chas at Stern to confirm that this connected. Orange is the 18 volts which the LEDs need. The others were other voltages not needed. So I connected them and they worked. I delivered the game and it was disconnected, but I quickly re-connected.

This explains why most people don't see these LEDs working on locations since they were probably never connected once set up.


 Data East Jurassic Park ball not coming out when play starts


When the game is started, the ball is not being fed to the plunger.


I checked switch test. All 6 balls trough switches work. It was obvious that the lockout solenoid that feeds the ball to the upkicker was frozen. I took the solenoid apart. The sleeve was melted.

I replace the solenoid and turned on the machine. I expected to see the solenoid pull in and stay pulled in. This would imply that the transistor was bad. It did not. I took the board off and checked the transistor. It shows okay. I put it back on. The voltage to both lugs shows as .6 volts. Voltages to other solenoid lugs show from between 48 and 72 volts.

I took the board off again and replaced the TIP122 transistor and the 1N4401 pre-transistor. Then replaced the 4 Amp SB fuse and it worked.

This happened again about 2 months later. I sent the board to Coin Service Technology to ensure that I fixed everything. They stated that the reason this happens is mechanical. Such as ball gets stuck or something causes the solenoid to keep firing. I could not see a problem unless a ball is moved into position and not popped out. The mechanism jams. But I did not see this happen, so I will have to continue to watch.


 Data East Jurassic Park CHAOS Lights not working


After I fixed the solenoid that feeds the plunger, the CHOAS Lights, RE in TREX and the 2 gate lights did not work.


This is column 7 of the lamp matrix. This is controlled by Q66. I checked that there was continuity between all lights and to the board. I replaced the Q66 TIP42 transistor and the lights worked.


 Data East Jurassic Park Lower right flipper not working


After I replaced the TIP42 transistor (from previous fix), I thought I was done and put together the machine. To my horror, the right lower flipper did not work.


Did I mess something up when working on the TIP42 Q66 transistor? Did I mess up a cold solder joint or break a connection? I tried reflowing the flipper relay. I checked all of the fuses on the flipper board. Do not know what else to do.. I should have left the game not working correctly.

I came back the next day after thinking about this and it turned out being a minor adjustment to the EOS switch. Thanks to the people (as usual) on RGP and Clay's manuals.


 Data East Jurassic Park Dinosaur Mouth Not Working


The dinosaur mouth is not working.


The solenoid board has been repaired. The solenoid was reading 2 ohms resistance. It should have been 4 or higher. I replaced the solenoid. The mouth still did not work. I tested the transistor and pre-transistor on the board to make sure I did not screw up. It was testing correctly. I checked the manual. I could not find anything.

I lifted the playfield and realized that there was a fuse near the dinosaur. I tested the fuse and it was blown. I replaced with a 3 Amp fuse. The mouth worked.


 Data East Jurassic Park Dinosaur Not Swallowing


The dinosaur picked up the ball. It tried to swallow but the ball would not go back far enough to fall down.


I tried to change the pitch of the game from 6 to 4 degrees. It really didn't help. I called Chas at Stern and he suggested I adjust a set screw. I looked under the play field and realized that there was a limit switch. The picture below shows that the screw and nut were almost to the top.

I moved the screw and nut all the way to the bottom as shown using a 1/4" hex driver and pliers to hold the screw head at the right side.

But the game did not sense the switch and failed. I slightly moved it up until the switch registered.

With the switch moved, the head went back a little further. The ball fell into his throat correctly now.

The dinosaur is now happy.

 Data East Laser War Solenoids not working


All of the solenoids do not work.


Whenever all of something does not work, I test the fuse. The owner stated the fuse was fine. I took the fuse out of the game and put it on my multi-meter. The fuse was broke. The owner said it looked good. Of course, I have learned to always test a fuse.


 Data East Laser War Takes 5 minutes to boot up


When the machine is turned on, it takes 5 minutes to reset.


Sent the MPU board to Coin Service Technology for repair.


 Data East Last Action Hero CRANE Targets Not Resetting


The CRANE drop targets are not resetting


The reset bar under the targets was not properly adjusted. I adjusted the adjustment bar and it worked better.

Several months later at the client site (after I sold it), the same problem occurred. It was obvious that the reset bar and the adjustment bar were worn. I called 800 KICKERS and spoke with Joe. I needed a reset bar for a 5 target mechanism. Maverick had a 5 target mechanism. The pictures in this manual were much better. I was able to order the two parts and install. The targets now work better than they ever did before. It only cost $26 to replace the two parts.


 Data East Last Action Hero Dynamite Scoop Green Light Does Not Light


The green light above the dynamite scoop (one on the left) does not light up.


I changed the light. It turns out that the connector is not soldered but slide in. It easily gets unattached. I think I attached it better but it still happens. Soldering would probably do the trick.


 Data East Last Action Hero Plunger Gun Not Shooting The Ball


The gun is not shooting the ball into play.


In switch mode the gun is registering when I hit the trigger. I lifted the playfield and noticed that a wire broke off the solenoid lug. Reconnected and it worked.


 Data East Last Action Hero Ball Not Popping Out Of Dynamite Scoop


When the ball goes into the scoop (either side), the ball does not come out.


I lifted the playfield. The loop broke off the switch. I took an extra switch I had and fashioned it into a loop to fit around the coil plunger. It works.


 Stern Lord of the Rings Ring Magnet Not Working


The ring magnet does not catch the ball.


I just called up Stern since I wanted to catch them when they were open. Chas told me to look at fuse F20. This is a 4A SB that is behind the display and speakers. The fuse was blown. I told him that the connectors to the opto in the back were turning on and off when I touched or moved things and worked better when I pushed in the connectors. He said this could have stressed the magnet. This should solve the problem.


 Sega Maverick The Drop Targets Are Not Resetting


The drop targets are not resetting.


It turns out that the drop targets do not reset during a ball until you make the cards asked for during game play. Once they are made, the drop targets come back up. They also come up for the next ball.

One of the drop target switches was not working so the game did not know the hand was made. The switch was adjusted correctly. Upon closer inspection, the 1N4001 diode was broken off. I replaced the diode and the switch worked correctly. The drop targets also reset correctly.


 Sega Maverick The Paddle Wheel Stopped Working


The paddle wheel stopped spinning.


The capacitor broke on the motor. I replaced it and it worked.

I called Stern about this. They say the paddle works all the time. On this machine, it stops after about 30 seconds if you are in attract mode. In game play it works all the time. I worked on a second machine that the same thing happened. I told this to Stern.

I also noticed that the second machine did not have a capacitor on the motor.


 Sega Maverick Display Does Not Work and No Balls Come Out


Game stops working in the middle. The display goes blank and the no balls come out, but playfield lights on and flippers work.


Fuse F1 on the power board was out (7 amp sb). I replaced it. The game said 1 ball was missing but it played. I watched the screen go blank and looked like it was resetting. It showed the date of November 10, 1994 as part of the start up during the middle of a game. Then the ball drained. The screen remained blank. No balls came out, but the flippers worked.

I turned off the machine and tested F1. It was good. The game came back on but still said it was missing a ball. I found the ball under the boat in the front as the wire ramp merged. I put the ball back. The game seemed to work fine. No more blank screens or resets.

Do you get this kind of problem when a ball is missing?


 Data East Monday Night Football Flipper Sticks


Right flipper sticks mechanically.


I asked the customer to raise the playfield and press the flipper button. The flipper did not stick. Obviously gravity was making a difference. I asked the customer to check the EOS switch. It was fine. I asked him to tight al the bolts into the playfield. He stated that one turned 1/2 turn. He lowered the playfield and the flipper worked fine. This just shows that the plunger needs to be perfectly aligned.


 Stern Monopoly Ball Does Not Always Go Up Left Ramp


When the ball is hit hard, the ball goes up the left ramp, looks like it hits the gate and comes back down.


I called Stern Technical Support. They showed me service bulletin #135. This puts a square butyrate plastic at the top of the left ramp and stops the ball when going in the air. They did not have the part. I used a clear plastic off of a Star Trek Next Generation. It doesn't look great but it doesn't look out of place.

I ended up putting this on both ramps.


 Stern Monopoly Ball Gets Stuck in Waterworks Hole


When the ball goes into the waterworks hole, the rotating flipper doesn't have the strength to knock it out.


I called Stern Technical Support. They said I should lower the rubber on the flipper paddle so it "lifts" the ball out of the hole. This worked great!


Stern Monopoly Lock Switches #2 (Switch #21) and Lock Switch #3 (Switch #22) Not Working and Left Return Lane Not Working


Switches 21, 22 and 58 are not working.


The two lock switches were not working. I thought maybe the switches just happened to be bad and I replaced. This did not work. I then looked at the connector and realized that the wires were not well secured in the connector. I tightened them and the switches work. The real solution will be to replace the connector.

The left return lane was also not working. I checked the connection of the white/red wire and it looked good. I then, finally, realized that the switch was closed. The end of the wire that rests under the playfield was bent in such a way that the switch was activating all the time. I took the switch out and corrected the wire so it laid flat so that it was off and only on when activated.


 Stern Monopoly Coils Stop Working (Fuse #21 blown) in Multiball Mode


When the 3rd ball goes up the right ramp, and into the plunger lane, the coils stop working (because fuse #21 blows) as the game tries to auto plunge the ball back into play.


The game was working fine for years and then did not work after I went to the customer's house and fixed a totally unrelated issue. The person found Stern's Service Bulletin #139 which mentions this issue. This states that the auto plunge coil (23-700) is too powerful and should be replaced by 090-5036-0T.

I went to the customer's house to replace the coil. When I removed the coil, the plunger fell out of the game. It turned out the blue link was broken that attached the plunger to the plunging device. I replaced the plunger and the coil and the game has not blown fuse #21 since.


 Stern NASCAR Garage is Originally Stuck Down and then Stuck Up


The garage does not go up.


The fuse to the left of the garage is blown. I replaced the fuse and the garage goes up and stays up.

I replaced the diode on the coil that raises the garage. Same problem.

I replaced the coil that raises the garage. Same problem.

I realized that the two yellow targets when the garage is raised are not working. I was hoping this would solve the problem, especially after speaking with Stern Technical Support. I fixed the target switches but it did not solve the problem.

Stern Technical Support suggested that we do a factory reset since the game was compensating. We performed a factory reset and the garage works fine.


Stern NASCAR Garage will not lower


The garage will not lower. There is a shutter when the coil fires but it does not move.


I lifted the playfield and immediately saw the problem. The coil was dangling. The "L" bracket that holds the coil that lowers the garage was broken at the bend. You can buy a stronger replacement bracket from Marco Specialties or a NASCAR Bracket Fix which looks like it includes Service Bulletin #150 and two replacement chips as well as the bracket. I believe the bracket part number, if you need to search for it, is 535-9604-00. Current bracket price (8/3/2010) is $49.95.


 Stern Pirates of the Caribbean Chest Error and Popper Not Working


The ball was not popping out of the hole to the back left of the chest. The game gave a chest error. When I took the balls out, there were only 3 balls.


The switch for the popper worked. In coil test, I could hear the coil trying to work. The plunger was suction stuck to the grommet. I stuck my finger between the plunger and the grommet and it freed up and worked nicely.

I looked for the 4th ball. I finally noticed it stuck in the area past the gate under the best. Again the plunger was stuck and release it with my finger and it worked nicely.


 Stern Ripley's Believe It Or Not Switch Under Playfield Not Working


When the ball falls into the skill shot hole (either from the side or front), the ball is not recognized.


During ball search, the ball is kicked out. So the coil works fine. I tested the switch with my hand and it worked. I placed it back and put the ball in. It did not work. I went to adjust the switch but I noticed the screws holding the switch to the metal tunnel were loose. I tightened them and it worked fine.


 Stern Ripley's Believe It Or Not Switch Error - Hypersensitive Switch


I get a switch error that switch 16 at the plunger tip is hypersensitive.


I called Stern technical support. They suggested going into switch test mode and lightly tapping the playfield to see if it is registering. If it is, then I ensured the switch was not touching edges of the hole and it was bent back a little.


 Stern Ripley's Believe It Or Not Controlled Lights On In Groups


During game play, random lights are lit at the same time as others. In lamp single test mode, several lamps are on.


When I turn on a lamp, 3 other lamps also turn on.

The Stern lamp matrix looks like:

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08
09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

When I only turn on lamp 1, the following lamps in a pattern also light up: 3, 9, 11
When I only turn on lamp 2, the following lamps in a pattern also light up: 3, 10, 11
When I only turn on lamp 3, only lamp 3 lights up
When I only turn on lamp 4, the following lamps in a pattern also light up: 3, 11, 12
When I only turn on lamp 5, the following lamps in a pattern also light up: 3, 11, 13
When I only turn on lamp 6, the following lamps in a pattern also light up: 3, 11, 14
When I only turn on lamp 7, the following lamps in a pattern also light up: 3, 11, 15
When I only turn on lamp 8, the following lamps in a pattern also light up: 3, 11, 16

so the pattern here is always 3 and 11 unless #3 is turned on...

visually this looks like:

XX is turned on
-- is also lit

XX 02 --- 04 05 06 07 08
---- 10 --- 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

01 XX --- 04 05 06 07 08
09 ---- --- 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

01 02 XX 04 05 06 07 08
09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

01 02 --- XX 05 06 07 08
09 10 --- ---- 13 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

01 02 --- 04 XX 06 07 08
09 10 --- 12 ---- 14 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

01 02 --- 04 05 XX 07 08
09 10 --- 12 13 ---- 15 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

01 02 --- 04 05 06 XX 08
09 10 --- 12 13 14 ---- 16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

01 02 --- 04 05 06 07 XX
09 10 --- 12 13 14 15 ----
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

It doesn't happen on the second row. But happens similarly on the 3rd.

I realized that maybe there was a problem with Light 3 or 11. Lamp #11 is a #44 with a diode on it. One of the leafs was bent and touching another part of the lamp. Once I corrected this, the lights worked properly.


 Stern Ripley's Believe It Or Not Temple LED Display Not Working


The Temple LED three times 5x7 display on the left red ramp was not working at all.


There was massive corrosion on the CPU. I sent this in for repair and the temple display still did not work.

I thought that the LED display ($79) was bad, so along with other parts to cosmetically fix up the game, I bought this board. The LED display still did not work.

I checked the 5 volts to the LED and the ground and they were both working. The data signals appeared to be changing the voltage but I couldn't clearly read it with a DMM.

I double checked all the traces from the CN1 ribbon cable back on the CPU board to ensure that the fix on this board was done properly. One trace did not match the schematic. The schematic states that U208 Pin 9 goes to U209 Pin 15. But it goes to pin 17. I checked my LOTR and it also went to pin 17. I then checked different versions of the schematic on my 2003 Stern disk and older versions of the CPU schematic were correct, but this version was wrong.

I called Chas at Stern. He provided (as usual) the information I needed. The LED display is driven by the auxilliary output J2 connector on the IO Driver board. He stated that U201 and U206 provided the signals. U201 provided 8 digital lines and U206 provided 1 digital line. Both chips were 74HCT273 20 pin chips. I have almost every chip, but did not have this. So I bought a bunch from Ed at Great Plains Electronics.

Chas suggested that I replace U201 first and test. I did. On start up, the LEDs produced garbage but then nothing after the initial burst of beautiful red dots. So I thought I was on to something.

I then replaced U206. I tried it and nothing happened. No red dots. I turned off the game and reseated all connectors and pushed in U201 and U206 a little more. I turned on the game and the LEDs came to life and worked as usual.

Thanks Chas!


 Stern Ripley's Believe It or Not Plunger Hard to Plunge


The plunger that came with the pre-owned game was not very responsive.


I replaced with a weeaker spring and can now get the full range of shots including the skil shot.


 Stern Ripley's Believe It or Not Upper Right Flipper Sluggish


The upper right flipper appeared unresponsive and weak.


I was looking for a 090-5067 flipper coil to replace the one there. I did not have it and planned to use a 090-5030 since I read some comments that the flipper coil itself may be weak. I prepared the new coil and tested the game before installing. I realized that the flipper was sluggish because the flipper button had to be fully pushed in.

I looked at the right flipper button switch. The distance between the leafs on the switch that controlled the lower flipper was very wide. Then when the switch did engage and push the 2nd switch closed that controlled the upper right flipper, I realized that the switch was barely touching (hence the weak flipper sometimes) and required the flipper button to be firmly pressed in all the way.

I decreased the width of the space on the lower flipper and bent the outside leaf for the switch for the upper flipper closer. Both flippers are more responsive and strong. I even adjusted the width (less) on the left side.

I did not need to change the coil.


 Stern RoboCop Flippers Not Working


The flippers are not working.


The coil fuse was out. I replaced the fuse and the flippers worked. I then searched through the game to see if I can find out why the fuse blew. Otherwise it would just blow again.

The left outlane kickback coil was the problem. The ball would roll over the switch. The coil would fire. But the plunger would not hit the ball. The ball would stay on the switch. This caused the coil plunger to continue to stay extended and blocked the ball from rolling down unless shaken out. This caused the coil to get very hot. This is what caused the problem with the coil fuse blowing. It turns out the tip of the plunger fell off. I temporarily removed the plunger so the ball would not get caught. I have a plunger on order.


 Data East Rocky and Bullwinkle (The Adventures of) Left Outlane Plunger Not Working


The left outlane plunger was not working.


I removed the apron (or arch) to expose the coil that controls this plunger. The lower wire was disconnected. We resoldered the wire and the plunger worked.

In general, whenever a coil does not work, check to see if the wires are connected. If the wires are connected and it works when the game goes into ball search mode (or in test mode) then it is probably a good indication that the switch is not registering.


 Data East Rocky and Bullwinkle (The Adventures of) Trough Shooting Extra Balls and the Saw and Wood Feature Not Working


The customer had two separate issues. The game was shooting out extra balls during almost every ball. The Saw and Wood feature on the right was not working.


I tested coils and the motor for the saw and wood feature was working. So I told the customer we would get back to that afterwards.

When I took the apron off the game for the previous fix, I went into Switch Test mode and the middle switch in the trough was not working. The green column wire was shared by the left and right switch (which were working) in the trough and there was continuity between the green wires on the three switches (tested with power off). So I decided to follow the white/yellow wire that was on the other side of the switch.

I explained the switch matrix to the customer and we found the next switch on the white/yellow row. This was the second drop target below the saw and wood feature. I tested this switch and it did not work. I explained to the customer, that the trough issue was also affecting game play and not allowing the saw and wood feature to work since the game never knew that all 5 drop targets were knocked down.

We followed the row to the next switch using the white/yellow wire. This was the target to the right of the right ramp entrance. I pressed the switch and it worked.

I explained to the customer that the white/yellow wire between this target switch and the above drop target was broken somewhere. We turned off the game and lifted the playfield. It was clearly visable that one of the white/yellow wires was disconnected from the target. We resoldered it back in and both switches worked.

The trough no longer shot out extra balls since the trough switch was registering. The game now knew when all 5 drop targets below the saw and wood feature were hit so it raised the targets (which the customer now realized it was not doing and now knows why) and the wood would start to move towards the spinning saw. The girl was saved when the appropriate drop target was knocked down.

The game now worked 100%.


 Sega/Stern South Park Kenny Opto Not Working


Kenny Opto Not Working.


I took the opto bracket out of the game. The transmitter on the left side was bent down. I bent it up and reflowed the solder and placed it in the correct position and the opto worked.

I played a few games and the ball lands on the plastic above the opto (which explains why the plastic is cracked) and although there is a metal "fence" protecting the bracket from the side and front, there is nothing protecting it from above. The ball comes down and pushes the opto transmitter down and then the game does not sense the Kenny Opto. I bent the opto back up and it worked and it did it a few days later.

This will need a better solution. I used the bracket from the back of a 1990s Bally/Williams Pinball to use as a ramp support on a Gottlieb Rescue 911. I took another and went to see if I could use it to solve this problem.

I first placed the bracket so that the bend was facing upwards and inhibited Kenny when he moved forward. I turned it upside down so that the bend was facing down. I put Kenny in the lowest position leaning to the right and moved the bracket towards him and tighted it. The bracket does not affect the path of Kenny and so far the ball has not touched the opto.


The above is the Bally/Williams Back box bracket I will use to stop the ball from landing on the Kenny transmitter opto.


The above picture shows the bracket in place under the plastic and secured by the bolt to the left side post. I did some testing. The ball should not be able to touch the opto. But it could get stuck leaning on Kenny at the point where the two wire "fences" come together. I tested this. When Kenny moves in ball search mode, the ball falls without hitting the opto.


The above picture shows the bracket in place and hardly noticeable.


 Data East Star Trek 25th Anniversary Moving Target Not Registering


The moving target is not registering a hit.


Put the machine in switch test. The test sometimes works and sometimes does not. Upon further inspection, the switch was always closed. When I moved the target it was sometimes opening, closing and registering. I adjusted the switch to ensure that it was open unless it was hit by the ball.


 Data East Star Trek 25th Anniversary Drop Targets Not Registering


When the drop targets fall, they are not registering.


I checked all other switches. Several of the drop targets were not registering. The switches were too far apart. I adjusted these switches and they worked.


 Data East Star Trek 25th Anniversary Left Ramp Is Always Up


The left ramp is always up.


Checked the wires to the coil under the playfield. One of the wires was broken off the coil. I resoldered the wire and it worked.


 Data East Star Trek 25th Anniversary The Ball Plunger Is Not Working


When the ball is in the plunger lane, the fire button does not shoot the ball.


I checked the coil. The wires were attached, but they were frayed. It looks like they got trapped in the springs and plunger. I pulled the yellow wire and it broke. I added some wire and used a wire nut to connect the wires back together. The plunger worked.


 Data East Star Trek 25th Anniversary Game Delivered By Another Company, It Is Missing Balls and Does Not Start


The game is missing a ball and will not start.


Another company delivered the game. They did not have to travel far so they did not bother to remove the balls from the trough. I asked the customer to take off the glass, lift the playfield and look for a ball probably hiding in the wires. The customer found the ball, put the game back together and it worked.


 Data East Star Trek 25th Transporter Multi-Ball Constantly Feeding Balls to Plunger and Not Giving Back from Center Scoop


Once the customer gets into transporter multi-ball, the game continues to feed balls to the plunger until all balls are stuck in the subway. The game must be turned off, then back on for the balls to come back to the trough.


I checked the switch on the plunger for the subway. It was working fine. The coil was also working. I looked at the trough switches. Somehow the switch under the ball about to be fed to the plunger was turned around facing down. I do not know how this could have happened. I moved the switch wire back into position so that it would register a ball in the area about to the fed to the plunger. The switch worked and the game worked.


 Sega Star Wars Trilogy No Coils Working


Bought a Star Wars Trilogy. None of the coils were working.


Fuse F21 was blown. I replaced with a new 3amp slow blow. The coils worked.

I noticed that the Coil 1 for the trough had a wire disconnected. I replaced the wire. Turned on the game and F21 blew.

I bought a new coil. I replaced Q1 that controls coil 1 and the coils worked and did not blow the fuse.


Sega Star Wars Trilogy Several Coils Not Working


Once I got the coils to work, I tested each one and several did not work.


The following coils did not work:

#5 X-Wing Cannon

#13 Right Sling

#21 4-Bank #2 Drop Target

#25 Magnet Slide

Upon closer inspection the magnet slide (#25) and the X-Wing Cannon (#5) had the coil wires broken off. Since these coils move (similar to the helicopter on Rescue 911 or the cannon on Star Trek Next Generation), they are likely to break. Further the switch on the X-Wing also had broken wires. I replaced the wires. The slide magnet coil worked. The X-wing cannon did not work.

I replaced the coil for the right sling and the x-wing cannon. I also replaced the transistors to be sure. Both coils worked.

I took the 4-bank assembly out. The #2 drop target coil was missing the diode. I replaced it and the coil worked.

One of the switches for drop target 3 did not work. It turned out that the diode had a cold solder joint. I reflowed the solder and the switch worked.


 Sega Star Wars Trilogy Missing Several Decals on the Drop Targets


The drop targets were missing the decals.


The decals are not available for purchase. I scanned a decal and fixed it up as best I could. (The image below is off center since I had to paste from the word document and create an image. The old image, created a long time ago, on a PC had an error.)

Here is a sheet of Decals in Word format.

Here is a sheet of Decals as a PDF.


 Sega Star Wars Trilogy X Wing Fighter Operator Error


When the game is turned on, the X Winger Fighter moves right then left and gives the above error.


The Coil mechanism is not lined up correctly to turn on the Home switch. Go into Game specific tests for the X Wing Fighter. Move the cannon where the HOME switch is on. Adjust the coil location with an allen wrench to lin eup the coil with the ramp. It should now work fine.


 Sega Star Wars Trilogy Controlled Light Not Working


One of the Tie Fighter lights in the matrix was not working.


This is a #555 that does not use the plastic lamp holder that has a built in diode. The color of the wire was orange, but the manual said it should be Red/Orange. There were two problems. I traced the wire and it was cut. I repaired this and traced to the diodes on the playfield about 1 foot or so up from the Tie fighter lamp locations. The diode was broken off. I replaced the diode and the light worked.


 Data East Tommy Auto Launcher


This particular Tommy started with simply the 180-5100-00 switch in the plunger lane was not working.


I replaced the switch and it worked. But the auto launcher was not working well. This game uses the old style auto launcher with the coil located parallel to the play field. It is composed of two parts.

Part #515-6213-00 replaces #515-5991-00. On the game I am working on, the nib that sticks out that goes into the track of the other piece is worn and flattened. I tried to use a dremel to round it but did not fix the problem.

Part #515-5990-00 is the kicker link that meshes with the above part. This part is no longer available. The track in this had a divot that I dremeled out and did a good job.

The auto launcher assembly that is currently on the Tommy I am working on is #500-5797-00 and it is no longer available. The new auto launcher assembly is #500-6091-00. But it is smaller than the original. You will also need a coil bracket to make it work. Acton Pinball has a nice write up of replacing the old auto launcher with the new one. Click here for their article.

So I have ordered #515-6213-00 to see if the existing assembly can be used. Otherwise I will have to figure out how to get the new assembly #500-6091-00.

The other issue with the plunger is there is a divot in the wood. The ball does not fully engage the plunger switch but is too far away from the manual or auto plunger to work. I tried to sand down the wood a little and raise the angle of the play field.

Another issue is if the ball does go past the divot it sinks into the gap between the wood and the plate of the auto plunger. The switch does not always register if the ball moves over it too fast. Then the balls stack up in multi ball and the manual plunger is not strong enough to kick out 2 or more balls.

The final issue is when the ball is resting against the plate of the auto plunger and the manual plunger is engaged it hits the face plate and does not get a good shot at the ball.

I will continue to work on this entry as I get the parts to fix this. I like this game, but not a game to get unless this works perfectly.

I finally fixed this on 3/6/2016. I tried to buy a replacement old style head with the hole that the plunger fits through. This did not work. The plunger was still hitting the auto plunger head.

The pictures below show changing from the old style to the new style. This took about 3 hours to do since I had to measure and ensure everything was lined up. As you see from the photos, I had to carefully reverse the mounting of the switch and find a smaller screw so everything would fit.

The above picture shows the auto plunger assembly. I already removed thetop portion since I tried a new piece and it did not work.

Another view. The top left screw above the trough is actually attached to a part of the mounting that is broken at the thinnest point which is the bottom left of the wood cut out where the black area of the apron is showing through. This probably did not help that the left side of the pivot to the piece that hits the ball was not totally straight.

The switch is mounted from the right into the bracket. As you will see later, I will need to reverse the mount and also change the actual switch. I tried to use the one specified in the manual. It did not align with the ball as stated above. I went thourgh my switches and the Bally/Williams -19 (most commen) worked well. Later you will see that the spacing is very tight to place the switch and still allow the assembly to pivot.

The coil needs to come off the assembly so I can remove the assembly. I unscrew the bottom two black screws to get the coil off.

I remove the switch. Which is attached with a metal screw to the plate.

The coil is now removed as well. Note that the coil bracket that remains(where the plunger and spring are going through), will be reused on the other bracket assembly.

It is amazing that I think I take more pictures than I do. I thought I took a picture of the old assembly out of the game. Oh well. After lining up the two fingers that actually hit the ball above the playfield, I installed the new auto plunger assembly. The important part was to ensure proper clearance of the manual plunger between the two fingers.

You will remember that the original assembly had the coil parallel to the playfield. This new auto plunger assembly has it perpendicular. The above part number is 500-6091-00.

I carefully lined up the coil to ensure a smooth in/out motion of the plunger. This bracket is 515-6527-00. I reuse the bracket from the old assembly as described above. You will notice that the switch mounts on the right side but there is no room. I did not take a final picture with the switch, coil and plunger attached. But this is basically what it looks like because from this angle you could not see the switch. :) For the coil wires to reach, I needed to turn the coil 90 degrees to the left. Below I show where the coil lungs are close to the trough switch. I bathe both in generous supplies of electrical tape.

A fuzzy view of the coil lugs close to the trough switch.

Basically, the above picture is the switch.

I reversed the mount on the switch. But the nuts and the screw actually hinder the autoplunger motion. Back to the design drawing board.

I reversed the screw. BUT, now the screw was blocking my ability to screw the mount into the wood.

I gave a lot of clearance on the right but the screws were blocking the ability to screw into the wood.

The baove pictures shows a smaller screw by 1/16" and the washer added back on the right. There is still enough clearance for the plunger.

The above picture shows that the screw is smaller so I can screw this mount into the wood.

The switch mounted and tested for position above. The plunger moves freely. I will next attach the diode on wires and ensure everything is bent to the left to stay out of the path of the autoplunger.

The manual plunger was not long enough. I eplaced the barrel spring with a smaller one and inserted the tip of the old rubber inside the plunger tip of the new one to make it a little longer.

In testing and playing the game, the manual plunger worked perfectly. It was as strong or weak as you wanted. It did not touch the auto plunger.

There was still a problem with a ball flying slightly into the air and hitting the wire ramp and falling back to the plunger. The game software did not seem to pick up that the ball was there and would not shoot it. It kept trying to engage the trough coil.

I added some electrical tape in the plunger lane on the right side right before it went up slightly. This forced the ball to the left and it greatly reduced the number of balls coming back to the plunger. I told the customer with the manual plunger now working, he may occasionally have to manually plunge the balls if this happens.

I played the game for almost an hour and it worked fine.

I wish I could provide measurements and exact information. I lined up the fingers so that they would move freely and not hit the wood in the entire path it can take in the coil. I also lined them up so that the manual plunger would not hit it. The coil bracket gracefully sat next to the other bracket and was perfectly aligned. The switch, as noted above was the biggest issue to reverse the mount and find smaller screws. Luckily I have a large selection.

 Sega Twister General Illumination does not work


No lights are on in the playfield.


I thought there could be some sort of problem or blown fuse. I decided to take off plastic on a sling. Both lights were burned out with a pretty metallic finish. I replaced the lights. They worked. I noticed that EVERY playfield GI light was burned out.

It appears the operator placed the game in a location, took out the money, never fixed it or cleaned it. The playfield was black. Luckily it probably protected the playfield. The playfield cleaned up with a Magic Eraser (and alcohol) and Novus #2.


 Sega Twister the solenoids do not work


The flippers work. The ball guide solenoid works. The canister solenoid works. No other solenoids work. I used Dr. Pinball to assist. Grounding the transistors did not fire the solenoids. Testing the transistors did not show them as shorted or open.


I realized that the color of the wires for the flippers was different than the other solenoids. The color of ball guide wires were also different. The canister had one wire that matched one wire on the other solenoids.

I checked continuity between the solenoids on the playfield. There was continuity between all of the solenoids that did not work. There was no continuity between the canister solenoid that worked and the others that did not.

This implied that a wire was broken. Upon closer inspection of the wires connected to the working canister solenoid, one of the wires was not soldered. I soldered the wire back onto the lug and all of the solenoids worked.


 Sega Twister rotor does not spin


The rotor does not spin.


I checked the wires to ensure that the wires were not broken. I then checked the transistor. The transistor that controls the rotor, Q6, was missing. I added a 20N10L transistor. The rotor still did not spin.

The rotor motor is controlled by a relay. I would expect that the relay would do a click-click as if it were trying to work. It did not. I took the relay off the bottom of the board. There were several cracked solder joints. I reflowed the solder and added some. The rotor now spins.

An interesting side topic is that the magnet on the rotor did not work in test mode but worked fine in game play. This is something to think about when testing. Not only test the problem, but try it in game play.


 Sega Twister magnet that should control the top diverter is controlling the rotor magnet


When testing the top diverter magnet, the rotor magnet engages.


The connectors into the magnet board beneath the playfield were reversed.


 Sega Twister magnets stopped working after they were fixed


The magnets worked. Then the next day the magnets did not work.


(The description below is the order in which I trouble shot the situation. I could have done a better job.)

I looked at the manual and found that F20 on the board was the magnet fuse. It tested fine.

I then checked the transistor for Q6. It tested fine too. In hindsight this should not have mattered since both magnets were out and this solenoid controls the rotor motor.

I then checked if all connectors on the magnet board were in and correct. They were.

I then realized that there were two fuses on the bottom of the playfield. At the bottom of the fuse list it noted these fuses as magnet fuses. The one next to the rotor magnet was blown. The fuse at the diverter was fine. I changed the fuse and both magnets worked.

I am not sure why both magnets work with the one fuse but they do.

I then remembered reading something about the magnets causing the fuses to blow. I went to I went to the technical notes and found Note No. 91. This describes modifications to the magnet board and rotor motor neon light to stop the fuses from blowing.

The change may already have been done to the game. I will check when in front of it.

While inspecting the board when I first got it, the fuse looked blown but tested fine. In hindsight I should have replaced because it was stressed. Hopefully this is the problem.


 Sega Twister ball not going to plunger lane


This machine was delivered to a customer working. After I left I received a phone call on my cell tell me that the balls were not going to the plunger lane.


I checked the fuse to ensure that it did not blow. The fuse was okay. I went into test mode. The switch was recognized but the solenoid was not working. Then I realized all solenoids were not working. I went into Dr. Pinball. Using this feature I realized that the customer opened the door and hit the high power cut off switch. The button was pulled out and the game worked fine.


 Sega Twister the Ball is Not Delivered to the Plunger Game During a Game


The customer called and told me that the game just stops delivering the ball to the plunger lane.


I went to the house and tested the trough. It tested fine and all of the switches worked great. I played the game a few times and noticed the following issue. If you are in multi-ball mode and the screen says SHOOT RAMP and two or more balls drain at the exact time, the game is confused and does not end the ball. It waits about 30 seconds then it searches for the ball and shots it out and continues. I assume this is a glitch in the coding. I will check the technical notes.

I spoke with the son of the owner of the game. He said the other problem was occasionally the ball would be kicked out to the plunger but fly back down. When this happens (we simulated it happening) the ball is not always re-kicked back to the plunger. The game thinks it is waiting for the player to shoot the plunger and does not search for the ball. I would assume a programming glitch. If the ball is not closing the plunger switch, then the software should search for the ball or re-kick it out. I will search the technical notes on this but I cant fix this. We put a piece of felt where the ball kicks out and it no longer falls back into the trough.


 Sega Twister the Left Sling Shot Does Not Sling The Ball


During game play the left sling does not work.


In test mode, the switch is not working but the coil is. When I looked under the playfield, the diode was unsoldered. I re-soldered the diode and it worked.


 Sega Viper Night Driving Constantly Resetting


The game resets every few seconds.


Replace the Bridge Rectifier 21 on the driver board. Sincxe I do a lot of Williams/Bally board work, I had 35 Amp 100 volt bridge rectifiers with skinny legs. I used this and the game worked.


 Sega Viper Night Driving Coils Not Working


I played the game and the coil to kick the ball out of the right lock hole did not work.


In test mode the following coils did not work:

#4 Right VUK uses J10 pin4/5 for yellow-violet wire and J8 Pin 5 for brown-yellow wire uses transistor Q4

#12 Left Sling uses J10 Pin 4/5 for yellow-violet wire and J9 Pin 5 for Blue-yellow wire uses transistor Q12

#20 Left ramp diverter uses J7 pin 1 for brown wire and J7 Pin 6 for violet yellow wire uses transistor Q20

I checked under the play field. The wires were all connected. There was continuity between coils on the daisy chain. I went into attract mode and shorted the above 3 transistors and the coils worked. This means that the coils were goo and the path to the coils was good.

This would imply that the transistor itself was bad or chips upstream were bad.

I tested each transistor using the method Clay suggests. With the power off, I used my DMM in beep test and touched the ground plate with one lead and all the transistors. They were all good.

The three coils go to three different chips. Highly unlikely they were all bad. I reseated all connectors on ball boards.

The coils now work.