Williams 1994 Demolition Man - N/A

Check List When Buying A Pinball

Pinball

The first set of pictures (after the "glamour shots" with the white background) are what the game looked like when I first got it. However, on this game, I started taking pictures of the "unveiling" since when I get a game from my wholesaler, I have no clue what condition it will be in. They always say it is in nice condition and our opinions sometimes differ. The "before" pictures were taken after I cleaned the visible parts of the play field and fixed the trigger buttons, but it still provides a good indication of the original condition.

I restored a Demolition Man in 2014. I used the pictures as a guide but will note some variations.

Here is a list of the items that needed to be addressed:

* Batteries corroded battery holder. Battery holder replaced but I need to fix the solder joints between the posts to get connectivity between batteries. In short term, using an external battery pack attached to the new battery holder (which means that the issue is my soldering and not the board). 11/26/2015 Update: When I took out the board to replace the game ROM, I noticed that continuity between the batteries occurred on the front of the board under the battery holder. Several of the rings around the holes to solder the battery holder were missing which stopped connectivity between the batteries. This game will simply always use an external battery pack. Which is safer for the game anyway.

* The game ROM is LA-1. I need to update this to the newest version. 11/26/2015: Updated to LX-4.

* The trigger buttons on the two triggers were pushed in due to dirt on the buttons. See pictures below for cleaning and fixing.

* In test mode, the claw magnet does not work, or works poorly. In game mode, it works fine. I wonder if this has to do with the version of the code? 11/26/2015: I posted this question on pinside.com but it appeared to magically start working in test mode so don't know why. It continues to work into 2017 without issue.

* One of the ramps did not have the connectors connected so none of those switches worked. Another example of lazy workmanship.

* Replaced all LEDs, posts, eject shield, flipper buttons, rubbers, Cliffy light blue posts; rebuilt all flippers and replaced bats; added plastic protectors, clear plastics and bought another semi circle plastic with the mode names on it.

* Took apart game while doing the above and clean play field, ramps, and replace bumpers.

* Replaced the driver board.

* Already replaced legs, bolts, leg levelers, leg protectors, and door lock.

* All plastics in good condition except the right sling which is broken. Luckily the game came with the manual, operator's handbook, schematics book, extra sling plastics, and other goodies. Thank goodness. This saved me $20-$40 on a manual and about $25-$30 on replacement slings.

The pictures have been taken with the glass off to get a better picture.

This game comes with a manual.

item Click on the Internet Pinball Database logo to the left. This is a GREAT resource to find out about the machine, see pictures, see reviews and download the rule sheet if one exists for the game. This provides additional insights into playing the game.

 

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Back glass is nice with all LEDs.

 

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The play field, ramps, and plastics cleaned up nicely. All LEDs. I will print out color instruction cards.

 

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The cabinet has some scratches but looks nice.

 

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A scratch on Wesley's face below his nose.

 

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New legs, bolts, levelers and blue leg protectors.

 

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The ramps and upper area turned out nice.

 

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I purchased a new Hot wheels Olds 442 and Ultra-lite Police car from eBay to install. The original ones looked good but a lot of dirt on the wheels that I will clean up and display them.

 

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Ball view. This is obviously with the ball standing still and looking towards the back of the play field. If the ball were moving, the image would have been blurred and spinning in all directions.

 

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When the machine first arrived after the unveiling below.

 

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These pictures are usually taken when I first get the game, I forgot and started doing some work.

 

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This is after I cleaned the visible parts of the play field.

 

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Note that most of the GI lights are burnt out. This probably protected J120 and J121 on the driver board since they are not burnt,

 

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Play field cleaned up in this picture.

 

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and this picture....

 

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and this picture.

 

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The cabinet is not bad, but more faded than the other game I had last year. It is most noticeable with the skin tones.

 

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This side of the back box is okay. I need to do some touch up on the black.

 

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Nice cabinet.

 

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There is a scratch on the face.

 

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Front.

 

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Once I replaced the batteries, I tried the game and the switches on the ramp did not work. I finally realized that both connectors were never connected by the previous person that worked on the game.

 

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Cars are in good shape. Eyeball looks okay as well.

 

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All ramps look good with protectors.

 

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Dirty ramps should clean up nicely but in nice condition.

 

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This is when I first got the game and brought it into the shop.

 

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Original condition.

 

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The only part I can see of the play field until I open it up. When I buy the game from my wholesaler, I never know what I am getting until I see it.

 

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Cabinet front. Dirty and has a bolt.

 

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Try to peak into the play field.

 

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New legs, new long bolts, new leg levelers, pincab leg protectors. (Later I bought blue leg protectors rather than black.)

 

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About to clean the front of the cabinet with Crazy Clean.

 

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The dirt from just the front of the cabinet.

 

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Cleaner.

 

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This wear will be covered by the leg protector.

 

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Cleaned the rest of the cabinet.

 

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Dirty hand grips.

 

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Installing leg protectors then legs.

 

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Front legs installed.

 

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Lowered the front of the cabinet onto the legs.

 

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My manual forklift to raise games by myself.

 

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Need to add a slide at the back right top.

 

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Earlier model since they started making them in February 1994 according to IPDB.

 

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Raised up.

 

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Rear legs installed.

 

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About to add outside back box clip.

 

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Back box clip added.

 

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Breaking the seal. Kind of like going to a motel and breaking the paper seal on the toilet.

 

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Ta Da!

 

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Dirty. Right broken plastic sling. Everything else looks okay.

 

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Dirty but no other broken plastics. Ramps look good with protectors.

 

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Here are the shots with the original dirt on the play field.

 

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More Dirt.

 

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More dirt and broken right sling.

 

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More dirt.

 

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The back box key was missing. But luckily in the bottom of the cabinet as I fished out all the goodies.

 

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Dirty but not broken.

 

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All the goodies fished out of the cabinet including new slings and the back box key (not shown).

 

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Back box key. Note that most of the lights were burnt out.

 

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Battery holder corroded. The rest of the board was not corroded. I replaced the battery holder but did not do a good job ensuring that the traces from one battery to another worked. I attached an external battery and it keeps the memory. So once I get the updated game ROM, I will change out the ROM and fix the soldering between battery leads. (Update: rings around holes on top of play field under battery probably came off when I desoldered the holder. So not worth fixing, I'll use the external battery holder.)

 

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Dirty back of the translite.

 

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About to use this.

 

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Works well.

 

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Looks great!

 

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Installing both wing nuts. Note that J120 and J121 are not burnt. Probably due to all the lights being burnt out.

 

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Nice back box.

 

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Close up of battery corrosion.

 

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New batteries, but needed an external battery until I fix traces between batteries as described above.

 

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When this button was pressed, it did not come back out. Most likely stuck due to dirt.

 

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I took the whole assembly off. Probably did not need to do and did not do so on the left side.

 

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Unscrewed the screw to remove the button and plate.

 

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Unscrewing the screw.

 

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Note the dirt.

 

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Very dirty button. The dirt was stopping the button from freely moving.

 

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Cleaned.

 

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Dirty plate.

 

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Clean plate. (I just turned it over on this side.)

 

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Cleaning the parts a final time in 91% alcohol.

 

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Button reinstalled and working nicely. Nice clean plate.

 

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On the left side, I just removed the inside assembly to get to the button. Note that it is pushed in and will not come out.

 

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After. I cleaned the button as I did the right side. I kept the plate attached to the assembly and used a dremel tool to clean the plate.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Clean.

 

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Clean.

 

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Clean

 

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Clean.

 

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Back box before. Below I glued the sticker back on and temporarily covered with masking tape to dry.

 

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With power on, only 3 lights worked on the back box, which probably explains why the J120 and J121 connector were not burnt.

 

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LEDs.

 

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Clean translite with LEDs.

 

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Note the right cold solder joint.

 

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Right solder fixed.

 

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New eject shield.

 

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This eject shield will be replaced.

 

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Old and new eject shield.

 

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Take off apron. The front two screws need to be removed.

 

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The 4 hex bolts; 2 on each side need to be removed.

 

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Hex bolts removed.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Dirty with guides removed.

 

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Cleaned and in/out lane guides removed.

 

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After play field cleaned, in lanes have Cliffy protectors added.

 

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Cliffy switch protector.

 

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Right Cliffy protector.

 

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In/out lane guide area cleaned and LEDs installed.

 

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Right in/out lane guide cleaned, clear plastic is new.

 

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Left in/out lane guide replaced with new clear protector.

 

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Will replace flipper assemblies. Worked on the right one this evening and spend over an hour working on everything.

 

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About to take out. Took a picture of the EOS Switch.

 

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Right flipper and coil replaced.

 

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Right flipper replaced and tested.

 

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Now I will start on removing the ramps. I am trying something new. I usually label all the connectors that I remove. This time I am also showing which hole they go through. There are SO MANY connectors in this game I want to ensure that I put them back correctly. Note that hole at the top left with 1 wire going through that I labeled 37.

 

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This hole has 3 wires.

 

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This hole (under the wad of wires) has 6 connectors.

 

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This hole has 2 wires.

 

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This hole has 3 wires.

 

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This hole has the wires for the motor and parts that I have not seen connectors for yet. So nothing labeled or removed.

 

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The two girders in the back come off.

 

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The flashers behind the girders will be removed and replaced with LEDs later.

 

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On the Demolition Man in 2014. I removed this VUK first. I first removed the front plastic on top of the two yellow targets. But I I realized that the back screw into the play field is covered by the overlapping plastic ramps. The ramps were broken on the other game so I was able to remove. Here this will now be the last wire ramp to be removed.

 

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Plastic removed. Front hex bolt can be removed.

 

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But back hex bolt which you can see is blocked by the two ramps cannot be removed. This will wait until later.

 

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Flippers on with super bands.

 

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The right wire ramp will be removed.

 

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Removed.

 

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The left two wire ramps will be removed. The small ramp on the left that attaches to the longer wire ramp is attached on top as shown below.

 

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Take the nut off at the left sling. I have been putting the hardware back on. I will use new hardware since most of it on this game looks crappy.

 

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This connects the small ramp to the longer ramp. Note that the small ramp is on top.

 

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I need to get this screw out of the play field but will need to remove the plastic covering this screw and the upper left flipper first.

 

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So let's first remove the left little ramp. Note that the left little ramp is on top of the longer ramp.

 

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Ramp removed and hardware put back for safe storage.

 

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This plastic is held with the two bolts shown.

 

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Plastic removed. The front of this plastic always seems to be broken, but it is the easiest way to get the two ramps removed.

 

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Now I can remove this screw.

 

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And can take out the long left ramp.

 

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This lower wire ramp comes out next.

 

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Remove this bolt first.

 

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Remove this bolt next. Note that the ramps are connected on spacers and not directly to the wood.

 

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Remove ramp

 

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The parts holder.

 

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The inner plastic ramp comes out next. I removed two wood screws from metal flap at the entrance. I needed to remove the red flasher dome...

 

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...and the clear plastic.

 

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These wires go below the other ramp so that other ramp will need to be loosened. And taken into account when put back together...

 

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More wires go here.

 

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This ramp will be loosened to get the wires out.

 

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Ramp removed.

 

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This ramp will be removed by removing the 3 bolts near the red lights.

 

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Removed but see how all the wires go off to the right.

 

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Removed.

 

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Note that there is a connector that needs to be removed that ties to the optos. This small wire ramp needs to be moved to the side to allow this ramp to be removed next.

 

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Wire ramp moved.

 

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The two screws removed from the flap and the bolts removed from the posts to the ramp protectors.

 

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Before the right plastic ramp can be removed, the divertor needs to be taken out.

 

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Note that I mark the shaft. I mark the top of the metal that the shaft goes through to ensure I put back correctly. I remove the connector from the light board above to provide room for the 3/32" Allen wrench.

 

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I loosen the shaft.

 

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and took two pictures so you see it again.

 

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Shaft removed.

 

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The two screws in the flap are removed, the bolts in the protectors are removed. There was also a bolt at the back left that needed to be removed. I showed this in the other restoration if you need to see it.

 

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Now I can get to the back bolt for the VUK ramp.

 

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VUK Removed.

 

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Dirt.

 

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Dirt and/or corrosion that I will fix.

 

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Dirt.

 

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Dirt.

 

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This ramp is held in place by the left lane guide.

 

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Ramp removed.

 

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Dirt.

 

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All the ramps.

 

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More dirt.

 

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Now to clean the main play field. The two slings have been replaced with new plastics that came as part of the game. I will be adding plastic protectors to key plastics. New posts, new rubbers, new LEDs, and new hardware.

 

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Left sling.

 

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Right sling.

 

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Cleaned plastic, protector, new posts, new rubber.

 

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I am starting to replace the black posts with blue Cliffy posts.

 

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Removing the wood guide to install Cliffy protector.

 

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Wood guide removed. Note screws not totally out of the game.

 

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Lifting wooden guide to clean underneath and install Cliffy protector.

 

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Cliffy protector installed. Note that the metal guide to the left of the coil was removed and cleaned so the protector can go underneath.

 

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Wood guide reinstalled.

 

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Metal guides installed.

 

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Apron reinstalled.

 

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Apron cleaned.

 

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Left side before.

 

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Eyeball will be removed and cleaned. Cars and track will be removed.

 

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Plastic removed and cleaned.

 

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Top left plastic removed and cleaned.

 

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Top clear plastic is yellowed.

 

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Top triangle plastic removed. So now can get to all screws on car track.

 

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In order to remove the track, the claw motor needs to be moved. There are 7 wood screws holding the track to the play field.

 

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Cleaned.

 

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Police car replaced. Olds 443 will be replaced later through the front.

 

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The claw opto board will be replaced. Note that this opto gets hot.

 

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New GLM Claw opto board.

 

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The 4 screws for the claw motor were removed here.

 

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New board on left; original board on right.

 

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Back side of boards.

 

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This metal ramp is removed next.

 

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And exposes the dirt.

 

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Cleaned.

 

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Before.

 

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After.

 

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Before.

 

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After.

 

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Before.

 

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After. With yellow targets cleaned and decals installed.

 

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New flipper with ultra band.

 

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New flipper assembly.

 

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I replaced the back blue/black plastics. But will need to remove the center one to put the small ramp back in.

 

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Replacing black leg protector with...

 

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...blue.

 

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Starting to clean and replace all parts in the top right area.

 

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New rubber for 3rd "bumper".

 

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This metal flap will be removed to slide out red car and replace with new.

 

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The pop bumper lights will be wired directly to the wires rather than these metal bare connectors.

 

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Pop bumper replacement.

 

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New pop bumper parts.

 

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Dirty, as usual.

 

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Clean.

 

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Replacing lane guides.

 

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Small metal ramp replaced. Plastic in back needed to be removed temporarily and replaced.

 

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All lane guides replaced.

 

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New pop bumper bodies.

 

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Done with the area.

 

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All plastic re-installed. But the left plastic will need to be removed to attach the wire ramps to the play field.

 

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Yellowed plastic.

 

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New clean plastic.

 

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Side by side.

 

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Clear plastic replaced.

 

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VUK re-installed first.

 

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Plastic and protector above two round targets replaced.

 

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This wire ramp re-installed but needs to be out of the way and moved into position when the two center ramps that intertwine are re-installed.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Clean.

 

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Semi circle plastic re-installed. The front plastic will need to be removed to fit everything in but just added for appearance.

 

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Claw body added.

 

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Dirty.

 

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Clean.

 

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Removing this plastic to re-install the ramps.

 

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These two ramps need to be reinstalled at the same time and the wire ramp moved into place. I needed to look at the pictures from my other restoration to install correctly.

 

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This switch and the switch on the other ramp needed to be replaced.

 

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Plastic ramps replaced.

 

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Right wire ramp re-installed.

 

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Left lower wire ramp re-installed.

 

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Plastic removed. plastic protector moved over to reinstall this ramp to the play field.

 

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Upper left ramp re-installed.

 

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Both ramps attached to play field and plastic re-installed.

 

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Left short ramp attached to left top ramp. Small ramp goes on top.

 

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Everything installed.

 

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Left red light works intermittently. Turns out connector had several cold solder joints.

 

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New game ROM installed and power daughter board.

Virginia Sales Tax

Virginia sales tax is currently 6.0%. Sales tax for in-state orders applies to machines and parts. It does not apply to the delivery or repair services.

Warranty

As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.

Reasons You Should Let Us Deliver Your Pinball (or Another Machine)

  1. We will NOT provide a warranty for the machine since we cannot be assured that a problem did not happen when you transported the machine. (As of August 1, 2014, we will no longer provide a warranty with our pinballs unless you purchase a separate warranty from us. A 1 year warranty is $500 or pay as you go if you even need it. If you buy it directly from us and take it home yourself, you will be inspecting it to ensure it works. If we deliver, we will ensure that it works 100% when delivered.)
  2. We take responsibility for any damage that may occur during the delivery process.
  3. We professionally set up the machine, connect all the connectors, attach the legs, head, etc. and ensure that the pinball works properly. If anything is out of adjustment due to moving the machine, we can fix it in a few minutes as compared to having to come to your house later and charging you a trip fee and repair charge.
  4. If anything major is out of adjustment, we can order parts and repair. This hardly ever happens but it could and you and the machine are protected.

Delivery Options

We are currently set up for local delivery only within the Northern Virginia, Washington DC, Maryland, and North-Eastern West Virginia area. If you are interested in shipping the pinball machine, we will contact a shipper. You will pay all crating and postage costs.

If you would like us to deliver and set up within 50 miles of Purcellville, the charge is $300; within 100 miles $475. The delivery charge includes delivery to a first floor or basement level if walk-out.

We will not sell you a game/deliver the game if the only entrance to your basement is an inside the house staircase. They are too narrow. Plus we have to ensure we don't mess up carpet or wood. It just isn't worth it.

You may also come and pick up the machine from our location.